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Vans & Minivans Nissan Quest Nissan Quest Engine Problems
68 messages, Last post on Nov 30, 2009 at 2:27 PM
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Replying to: Auto_Dummy (Jan 13, 2009 5:53 am) driving because of the bearing failure on the inside of the distributor from age and miles. After driving I put my hand on the side of the distributor and found it more hot than the rest of the engine is how I found the problem. You can order a new distributor complete on Ebay Motors for much less, and changing out is no problem if you mark the rotor button on the old one before removable and set the new one in the same.
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Replying to: Auto_Dummy (Jan 13, 2009 5:53 am) I have 2 CEL code and my other code is engin misfire. It does not specify which cylinder but random misfire is detected. I've been following this thread, (thanks to the board, it send you e-mail when new posting is entered) and distributor problem does not triger ramdom misfire code. Only knock sensor. Besides my Quest is running rough even when engin is cold (althogh this hard to notice because when cold engin is running fast). Your input would be appreciated. Thanks. mikek847  yahoo.com
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Replying to: denham (Jan 13, 2009 8:44 am) 1. engin running rough when engine is hot. 2. CEL code of knock sensor I want to be sure if the distributor is the villien for engin running rough before replacing the distributor. With 180K miles on my 97 Quest, I am pretty sure the baring on the shaft is out. Does CEL code of random cylinder misfire also come on if the distributor is bad? I wanna know. |
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Replying to: mikek847 (Jan 13, 2009 2:34 pm) |
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Replying to: chos (Aug 09, 2008 1:46 pm) Efitzgerald posted following problem and solution: Started fine and ran fine until it got warm, then it sputtered/misfired and the rpm would dance. Solved this problem by titening ground wire of ECM. Also posed that small photo sensor inside the distributor could cause the problem too. chos posted following problem: For the past 7 years I have had the problem that it dies all of a sudden in the middle of the road. This only happens in summertime heat and after I have driven it for a few hours. The problem has gotten progressively worse, as in more frequent and after shorter and shorter periods of driving. After 30 minutes on the side of the road it cranks right up and I drive away. denham posted following problem and solution: Runs good when cold, when engine gets hot or well warmed up can’t speed up, misses and cuts out. There are no codes showing except knock sensor. Both efitzgerald and denham agrees and denham has solved this problem by replacing the distributor assembly. Auto_Dummy posted following problem: Engine running rough and when stopped at a light you can hear the rumbling 'brrrrrr" sound but when I put it in neutral as I wait for the light to change the rumbling subsides and the engine runs smoother. Now I just got finished having to have it serviced to pass a smog test and 2 codes came up one of which was the knock sensor but they didn't replace it cause they said that it was not the reason for the CEL to come on, so they didn't...they just replaced what they called a EGRC-BPT valve and it passed the smog test. steve posted following problem: Threw a knock sensor code around 125,000 miles. Wound up replacing it and three injectors. I don't really trust that the indy mechanic knew what he was doing with the injectors. It's running and getting the same mpg as before but it's not as smooth as it was before. It was barely running after the CEL came on though; didn't matter if it was hot or cold. Missing, cutting out and you could smell the unburned gas coming out of the exhaust. Mikek847 posted following problem: I have 97' Quest GXE with 150K miles Problem 1: Eperiencing engine running rough. At times the CEL light comes on with following two codes: P0325 Knock Sensor 1 Curcuit P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Problem 2: Summer time when outside temperature is high, and I've driven for more then an hour. Especially on the freeway sitting in traffic jam with an air on. Engine looses power drastically; engine knocks whenever an accelerator is pressed and engine temperature rises (not to the dangerous level but higher then normal). But then when the stop & go traffic is freed, the problem goes away. |
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Replying to: chos (Aug 09, 2008 1:46 pm) eye and coil do not work once they get hot. You can find a distributor on Ebay. Get back with me!
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 CEL decodes to bad "bank 1, sensor 1" oxygen sensor and the auto parts place can't tell me which O2 sensor is the bank 1 sensor. I'm assuming that "sensor 1" indicates before the cat so I think I just need to find out whether "bank 1" means firewall or radiator side. The number 1 cylinder is on the firewall side if that is any reference. My wife has 137,000+ miles on this van and all of the O2 sensors are original so I don't mind changing more than one of the O2 sensors if necessary to clear the CEL. I noticed that Bosch recommends changing O2 sensors every 100,000 miles. Thanks!
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Replying to: cchalverson (Feb 07, 2009 7:08 pm)
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Replying to: denham (Jan 20, 2009 2:38 pm)
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Replying to: mikek847 (Feb 09, 2009 10:26 am) The bearing in the distributor goes bad with age and the coil pickup sensor does not get a good signal. Check E Bay and you can get a new distributor complete for less! Get back with me.
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