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Pontiac Bonneville Heating/Cooling Problems

148 messages, Last post on Oct 15, 2009 at 1:40 PM
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Replying to: wesleynky (Jul 13, 2008 9:07 pm) If you have standard (C67) no digital readout, there are two relays that switch. If one is burned, the blower doesn't work on the lower speeds and if the other is burned the system doesn't have the highest blower speed. Since you don't say that it works on one speed or other, check the ground from the blower motor. AND first you should disconnect the blower motor plug from the resistor pack on top of the air channel (the relay center lifts up after loosening or removing one or two screws, and test the blower motor with a FUSED power line from the battery and a ground. Fuse 17 and fuse 11 in the driver's dash panel. Fuse #3 in the Fuse and Relay center on the firewall under the hood -- but that only powers the high blower speed. If blower works then check the connector for good ground connection. If you've got the dual, automatic temperature control with digital readout, then it may be your blower motor control module that replaces the resistor pack in the top of the air duct under the hood. Again if the blower motor checks okay with fused wire, then the control module may have died. I'm told they're available aftermarket at Advance Auto and others. Also might find compatible at junkyard. It may look like this found on rockauto.com with a price of $119 Also on dual system Fuse 1 in fuse/relay center on passenger inside car under dash against A pillar area. Remove plastic panel above passenger's feet. On top of panel may be schematic and llist of relays and fuses in that forgotten panel. Also underhood firewall it's fuse 3. And on this unit it looks a blown fuse 3 there stops all speeds unlike the manual control system above. Note there are two fuse and relay centers I've mention: one is on the firewall under the hood and the other is by the passenger's right foot. This info is from a 1993 leSabre/ParkAvenue factory service manual. I may not be what's used for the Pontiac in 1992. |
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Replying to: steve180 (Jun 23, 2008 5:23 pm) http://www.imcool.com/articles/aircondition/fix_vacuum_line.php It worked on my 1998 Pontiac Bonneville and using the "Plan B" directions it cost $1.29 to repair, all I needed was about a foot of vacuum line from my local auto-parts store. |
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Replying to: steve180 (Jun 23, 2008 5:23 pm) I'm concerned you said you didn't get a lot of vacuum at the tank. How long had the motor been off. When I did it, I had turned the motor off a minute or two before and when I got down there I could hardly pull the line off because there was so much vacuum. Your next step if you don't get movement testing the various HVAC motors like in paragraph one is to go to the right side of the dash and follow the violet line up to where it's connected to the black line from the motor side of the firewall. Pull them apart (may be hard, they've been together a long time). See if there's vacuum on the black line when you put your moist fingetip on it! If there is vacuum and some of the other motors work, but the blue line one for the defrost/AC door doesn't, then most likely the connector at the programmer is sucking shut the little black nipple. You can bypass one, the blue one, or all with1/8 inch gas line chunks or aquarium line that fits tightly over the outside. This link tells one story which I had posted on Edmunds long ago. Repair link These pictures show the rubbery plastic connector after I cut the lines off. You can cut only the blue line inside and outside and bypass them. The connector comes out of the slot on the programmer box when the lid is snapped out using the black clips on one side. See more Car Pictures at CarSpace.com See more Car Pictures at CarSpace.com |
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Replying to: sharp_ct (Jul 19, 2008 7:55 am) I suspect you'll be below the minimum pressure to engage the switch to operate the system. Myself I would use the can and put in freon up to the correct color and see if you aren't getting some cooling. Then you can see if it goes down again or not. I had my 98 get not cool when the outside really got warm last summer. It had seemed okay earlier in the summer, but when the outside when up to 90 and above it was lacking. After 11 years I guess it seeped enough R134a that it was low. I put it back up to the proper level and I've had cooling since--including so far this summer. So I don't think I had a slow leak. You might check the condenser and tubing and look for oiliness as a sign of a leak which brings out some oil with it. The fans will come on through a separate circuit for coolant heating up. The no freon may be keeping them from coming on with the AC. |
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| I have read all the forums now and have done everything you guys have suggested. Only problem is now you can not control what setting the air blows out of. It will only come out of the A/C vents which is fine until you shut the car off and turn it back on. Now it will blow hot air either out of the A/C vents or out of the defrost. If you unplug the main vaccuum line and plug it back in it may or may not change it back to A/C and coming out of the vents. any suggestions? | |
| Also we did bypass the multi vaccuum line plug and reconnected all the lines with surgecial tubing by color code. Initially when car was started desired vents were blowing cold when engine was turned off and restarted, hot air was blowing from same vents. The blue vaccuum line was disconnected and then reconnnected changed the hot air to cold air blowing back through the vent. The same cycle was repeated several times, with same results. We could hear internally the door which directed hot and cold, actuating after each start up. | |
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I have an 03 Bonneville SLE with a strange quirk. It has the Dual Climate Control with Digital Readout. In the past month or so when I start the car it will light up and appear to be working however no air is coming out the vents. The settings can't be changed (changing to defrost vs. auto etc) .. after a period of time driving down the road (sometimes up to 20 minutes) then it will begin to function normally and then does work fine. I did replace the control unit itself but that hasn't fixed the problem. When it does work all settings can be changed, air blows as it should etc. it will work perfectly .. however the long delays are beyond a nusiance and I'm worried this winter about not having defrost (of course having a/c right now would be nice also) Has anyone else had this problem, any ideas how to fix? |
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