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Sedans Pontiac Bonneville Pontiac Bonneville Heating/Cooling Problems
150 messages, Last post on Dec 07, 2009 at 3:10 PM
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Replying to: steve180 (Jun 18, 2008 4:52 pm) i think the 1992-1996s had that setup. Then 1997-1999 had the tank under the front fender. If it's not there on the firewall, look under the right front fender in front of the wheel. Lie on te ground and look up. sometimes the connector goes bad that snaps on or the tank splits with age or injury. If the tank is there pull of the hose with the motor running to see if there's vacuum stored in the tank--it'll whoosh when you pull it off. If that doesn't work then there may be an internal problem under the dash. There's a programmer box with a 5 tube coupler made of plastic that has little rubber layers inside that soften and suck in and block the vacuum--but you usually will hear the lower dash vanes move when you put the settings on heater and on bilevel with the motor running. Try running the motor and then turn it off but leave the key on and switch between settings and see if you hear the vacuum motors move. If not you probably don't have vacuum coming inside at all. Check for the engine and storage tank vacuum lines and then I can give you links for the inside problem and cheap fix.
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| have no ac every thing under hood is working.but it blows hot inside car | |
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Replying to: imidazol97 (Jun 18, 2008 5:09 pm) Thanks for your help, i will try anything you suggest Steve
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I have a 92 Bonneville(yes it still runs). The blower fan for the AC/Heater will not work at all at any speed. It just suddenly quit and has not come back on since. I looked to see if the fuse had blown but it has not. Any ideas on what to investigate next. It is hot in Ky this time of year. I can get enough flow if I am out on the highway from vent air running through the AC to stay some what cool.
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Replying to: wesleynky (Jul 13, 2008 9:07 pm) If you have standard (C67) no digital readout, there are two relays that switch. If one is burned, the blower doesn't work on the lower speeds and if the other is burned the system doesn't have the highest blower speed. Since you don't say that it works on one speed or other, check the ground from the blower motor. AND first you should disconnect the blower motor plug from the resistor pack on top of the air channel (the relay center lifts up after loosening or removing one or two screws, and test the blower motor with a FUSED power line from the battery and a ground. Fuse 17 and fuse 11 in the driver's dash panel. Fuse #3 in the Fuse and Relay center on the firewall under the hood -- but that only powers the high blower speed. If blower works then check the connector for good ground connection. If you've got the dual, automatic temperature control with digital readout, then it may be your blower motor control module that replaces the resistor pack in the top of the air duct under the hood. Again if the blower motor checks okay with fused wire, then the control module may have died. I'm told they're available aftermarket at Advance Auto and others. Also might find compatible at junkyard. It may look like this found on rockauto.com with a price of $119  Also on dual system Fuse 1 in fuse/relay center on passenger inside car under dash against A pillar area. Remove plastic panel above passenger's feet. On top of panel may be schematic and llist of relays and fuses in that forgotten panel. Also underhood firewall it's fuse 3. And on this unit it looks a blown fuse 3 there stops all speeds unlike the manual control system above. Note there are two fuse and relay centers I've mention: one is on the firewall under the hood and the other is by the passenger's right foot. This info is from a 1993 leSabre/ParkAvenue factory service manual. I may not be what's used for the Pontiac in 1992. |
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Replying to: steve180 (Jun 23, 2008 5:23 pm) http://www.imcool.com/articles/aircondition/fix_vacuum_line.php It worked on my 1998 Pontiac Bonneville and using the "Plan B" directions it cost $1.29 to repair, all I needed was about a foot of vacuum line from my local auto-parts store. |
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Replying to: steve180 (Jun 23, 2008 5:23 pm) I'm concerned you said you didn't get a lot of vacuum at the tank. How long had the motor been off. When I did it, I had turned the motor off a minute or two before and when I got down there I could hardly pull the line off because there was so much vacuum. Your next step if you don't get movement testing the various HVAC motors like in paragraph one is to go to the right side of the dash and follow the violet line up to where it's connected to the black line from the motor side of the firewall. Pull them apart (may be hard, they've been together a long time). See if there's vacuum on the black line when you put your moist fingetip on it! If there is vacuum and some of the other motors work, but the blue line one for the defrost/AC door doesn't, then most likely the connector at the programmer is sucking shut the little black nipple. You can bypass one, the blue one, or all with1/8 inch gas line chunks or aquarium line that fits tightly over the outside. This link tells one story which I had posted on Edmunds long ago. Repair link These pictures show the rubbery plastic connector after I cut the lines off. You can cut only the blue line inside and outside and bypass them. The connector comes out of the slot on the programmer box when the lid is snapped out using the black clips on one side.  See more Car Pictures at CarSpace.com  See more Car Pictures at CarSpace.com |
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 My daughter has a '99 Bonne, manual heat controls. She says A.C. has been getting warmer over past week or so and has now stopped working altogether. I checked under the hood and the compressor is not kicking in when A.C. is turned on. More disturbing is that I also noticed that the main engine cooling fan is not kicking on either. I have checked all the fuses under the hood and the dash with a meter, and checked comp power lead to find it is not getting power to the clutch with A.C. on. Just coincidence that cooling fan failed at same time or is there some common circuit I should be looking at? Any thoughts or leads would be greatly appreciated. While she could live w/o the A.C., I'm afraid to let her drive it if the cooling fans are not coming on, even though it doesn't seem to be over heating. Thanks you in advance
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Replying to: sharp_ct (Jul 19, 2008 7:55 am) I suspect you'll be below the minimum pressure to engage the switch to operate the system. Myself I would use the can and put in freon up to the correct color and see if you aren't getting some cooling. Then you can see if it goes down again or not. I had my 98 get not cool when the outside really got warm last summer. It had seemed okay earlier in the summer, but when the outside when up to 90 and above it was lacking. After 11 years I guess it seeped enough R134a that it was low. I put it back up to the proper level and I've had cooling since--including so far this summer. So I don't think I had a slow leak. You might check the condenser and tubing and look for oiliness as a sign of a leak which brings out some oil with it. The fans will come on through a separate circuit for coolant heating up. The no freon may be keeping them from coming on with the AC. |
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