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Pontiac Bonneville Heating/Cooling Problems

148 messages, Last post on Oct 15, 2009 at 1:40 PM
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Replying to: dmx6 (Jan 01, 2008 8:27 pm) |
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Replying to: dmx6 (Jan 01, 2008 8:27 pm) have you checked your battery cables below the connector at the battery? I assume you have the double cable going to the positive... have you cleaned between them to bright metal? Have you cut down into the plastic convering the copper cable to be sure the corrosion hasn't eaten into that part as well? I have read about people having the battery acid eat into the cables. I have even heard an extreme case where it wicked through the cables down tot he other end at the starter...
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Replying to: imidazol97 (Jan 02, 2008 5:39 am)
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Replying to: awarwick (Jan 02, 2008 10:48 am)
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Replying to: dmx6 (Jan 02, 2008 5:19 pm) Several people seem to have had failures after battery changes. I'm not sure what that means. The units need to be turned off. Then the key turned off. ANd then the negative cable disconnect first and reconnected last. From other places I'm reading I'm not sure what you problems are. Does the system switch to putting air out the defroster instead of the floor or dash vents? That can be a sign of the vacuum connector at the programmer box $400 box not letting the vacuum through. No vacuum means the doors are set to the defroster for safety. The noise you hear may be the real clue. But you're saying both of you don't get heat. You need to watch the movement of the levers at the bottom of the unit while it operates to see if it's smooth. Take off the hush panel under the dash that's a thin plastic layer above the passenger's feet. It's about 3 screws and couple of taps at the floorboard. And watch the white plastic lever that moves the heat vane inside the heater box. It is #11 in the attached picture. It comes from the programmer box and moves the vane. It snaps over the rod that sticks out of the heater box to the left. It just clips on; it looks like a screw thread but it's not. You could unsnap it and move the heater vane all the way ?left? I think and see if you get hot air. The car should be at 90 degrees control setting and the threaded rod should beall the way to te left when the two are snapped together again to calibrate. Your motor inside the programmer may be skipping gears and not moving the rod. Also the actuator #4 for the passenger vane to adjust the temp up or down from the main setting usually is one shown as having cracked a plastic gear inside and losing calibration. I know of one Pontiac owner who installed a coat hanger wire through the glovebox and to the heater vane to adjust it till he could replace the actuator for one of these--and I guess that would be for the lower one. The programmer boxes just sit on the end with two screws. There is a little connector to the actuator on top and a large wiring connector that snaps to the programmer. The connector for the plastic tubes probably WON'T come apart after you remove the little tape in the middle. I'd suggest cutting the lines and reconnecting inner and outer colors (make a list and picture before you cut) with 1/8 inch rubber hose (free from scrap box at autoparts store? Or buy a 6 inch piece). See if your problem is electrical or vacuum. See if hot air is coming out at the defroster. The fix for vacuum line collapse is free. Dual AC in 1998 H body |
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It is apparent I am not the only one having this problem. I just really thought someone would have found a solution to it. I pulled the glove box and underside cover and still can't get access to the top of the control. There is a vent that goes across the top area and it blocks access to the control. I guess the dash assy must be pulled to access the heater box---does anyone know of another way? Thanks!!
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Replying to: dmx6 (Jan 06, 2008 5:49 pm) Well, I'm not sure if we have the exact same problem, (or if it is just coincidence), but I had no heat (sometimes) and it had problems only after replacing the battery. My heating problem was the THERMOSTAT. I had it replaced and now have heat. My car was overheating a little bit too, while the heat was working for 20 seconds, then not at all. There are a million more problems with my Bonneville, but at least I have heat now for the rest of this Colorado winter! Hope this helps someone. Best, Angela
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Replying to: awarwick (Jan 08, 2008 12:32 pm)
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Replying to: dmx6 (Jan 12, 2008 6:01 am)
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My heater does not work. Dealer ran check and said it is due to a short in the a/c programmer. He will fix it for $1,200. I have found a junk yard with one in it, but I can't see how to remove mine. I have tried from the underneath with no luck. I paid $15 to another site for the info, but all they said was to remove the glove box and all the hardware around the sides. I did but a metal bar with pn 395233 stamped on it doesn't come out, andeven if it did I can't see how to remove the duct works either. Can someone explain how I gain access to the A/C programmer? I have also seen on this site where people have been able to activate to control valve with a coat hanger. I can't even see to programmer, let alone attach something to it.
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