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Sedans Pontiac Bonneville Pontiac Bonneville Heating/Cooling Problems
148 messages, Last post on Oct 15, 2009 at 1:40 PM
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Replying to: imidazol97 (May 18, 2009 12:42 pm) IF is an actuator problem (hope not) how difficult is it to remove the dashboard to get to the actuator ?? and if damaged is it possible to leave it in a permanent "cooling position" ? We wont see winter here until about January THANKS AGAIN
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Replying to: bonnarizona (May 19, 2009 8:59 am) Remove the hush panel and be sure it's the actuator that won't work by watching as the settings on the dash are changed with the key ON. A couple of screws and the new actuator slips on. Of course there's an electrical connector. I can supply a graphic if it comes down to that. But I'd bet your actuator is adjusting the heat temps for you, indicating it's okay and the problem is in the low charge. But the actuators do have a failure rate. |
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Replying to: bonnarizona (May 19, 2009 8:59 am) Now I have to watch how cold I keep it, so my face doesn't freeze off : ) I want to Thank Imidazol97 for his quick and very effective help !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!as well as the people who put this website together. God bless You guys !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I am on my way to California this friday. Thanks again 
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Replying to: bonnarizona (May 20, 2009 2:45 pm) Actually a can of freon may be a few dollars and 10$ or so for a gauge that's reusable. Doing a quick connect to the low pressure side with the motor and system running on a 70 deg day, and you turn on the freon in the can let is slowly recharge the system until the pressure gauge gets the needle to the top of the green section. Then quickly turn off the feed, remove the screw on connection, replace the plastic cap to keep the connector clean and you're done. But it does require some experience with working on the car and some confidence. That varies with the person's past at working on cars. If I needed air tomorrow, and if I wasn't certain about what to do, $45 would be a bargain. I'd say that shop deserves your business the next time you have car trouble. They didn't rip you off. |
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Replying to: bonnarizona (May 18, 2009 10:24 am)
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Replying to: muscle1970 (May 21, 2009 4:51 pm) But first check the coolant charge. That seems to be the most common problem: loss of freon charge. It still cools, but not as well. And the cool part of the evaporate is where the air to the passenger goes through.
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I have a very strange problem happening with my 1996 Bonneville SE. Example: I start my car, turn on the A/C it blows cold air. However, when I shut my car off and wait just about a minute and then turn it back on it blows hot air. Then if I shut it off again and wait a minute restart it then it blows cold air again. I've tried this over and over and it is consistent everytime. What ever temp it was blowing at the time I shut off the car the next time it will blow the opposite temperature. Plus it takes about a minute for it to cut over each time I start the car up. Also when I turn on the blower it seems to always just blow air at my feet even though I've got it set to blow through the vents, but after about 4 to 5 minutes it starts to slowly blow through the vents and then increases to normal air volume. Has anybody ever had the same problems and if so how did you fix them? Photos would be greatly appreciated.
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Replying to: dannybailey (Aug 08, 2009 11:05 am) >Also when I turn on the blower it seems to always just blow air at my feet even though I've got it set to blow through the vents, If you have automatic temp control AC, If that's what's making it hot, you're in luck. But check to see if there's cold air coming out the defrost. If you're in a hot climate you won't feel any cold from it at all, but the cooler is still working under the hood. If the air is coming out the defrost and heater, you have lost vacuum to the interior. Since the vacuum returns!!!! after a few minutes, check the vacuum liine under the hood. On your 1996 I believe that starts at a little slick plastic tube (1/4 inch) that comes out of the upper intake manifold right next to the big black rubber hose going to the brake booster diaphragm. Follow that line. Feel the ends. Feel for cracks. It goes to a one-way valve over on the passenger side near the dryer unit for the AC and then there's a branch at a T. One goes to the storage tank under the fender in front of the right wheel. Check that tank for cracks losing vacuum and check the connection. Check all lines on the motor for cracks and leaks due to age or rot. They may be affecting your vacuum. The other branch of the T goes to the inside. Run motor and then pull of the connection at the reservoir under the fender to see if there's a big whoosh as air goes in to replace the vacuum. Otherwise check under the passenger dash. Remove the hush panel. Remove the door for the glovebox. Check for vacuum there at the violet line connection to the black line coming through the dash from the engine compartment. Problem may be same as here. http://www.imcool.com/articles/aircondition/fix_vacuum_line.php Use 1/8 inch internal diameter rubber gas hose to connect the lines to bypass the clear plastic connector that sucks shut after it softens. Pieces about 1.5 inch or less work fine. You also might have a vacuum actuator for one of the doors in the heater box that has cracked or torn. When you move the control setting to differnet places, feel each of the 4 vacuum actuators over above the driver's foot to see if they move fully. The back of the vacuum motor is open and you can use a finger to follow its movement or even to push and make each one operate. I believe the blue tube goes to the one that closes the door above the dash vents and makes the air come out the dash vents instead of the defrost vents. On the other hand: >However, when I shut my car off and wait just about a minute and then turn it back on it blows hot air. Then if I shut it off again and wait a minute restart it then it blows cold air again. I've tried this over and over and it is consistent everytime If when the car is started and there's no AC, have the hood open and check to see if the AC compressor is turning. Check to see if the metal AC line is getting cold like it usually does. That would indicate a relay or something might not be turning on. There's a relay in the relay center for the AC compressor clutch. But if contacts burned on it, I don't think it would be as definite in reconnecting like you're describing. |
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I have a 1998 Bonneville air will not come out of the center vents,but from the defrost and floor vents. After sometime it will eventually start coming out the center but will also continue out of defrost and floor. If you turn the fan speed down manually you can here a clicking sound like one of the doors are closing. The longer the clicking goes the more air comes out of the center vents. Just recently had an actuator replaced because we were getting no air from the center at all. Any ideas?
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Replying to: jd0754 (Aug 18, 2009 6:52 am) Also..., does your car have dual temperature controls? I am not clear from my service manual if a separate temp control is available for the passenger. The one way to check the vacuum actuator for the AC doors is to use a vacuum line from the heater or recirculate vacuum motors with the control panel requesting floor heat or recirculate. Snap the hose onto the AC vacuum motor and see if it works. Be aware you can feel the backside of the actuators which is open and feel the diaphragm move when vacuum is applied. That helps eliminate a tear or leak in the actuator itself. These actuators are above the driver's right foot. The is one with two leads to it for the floor doors-they close partly when doing windshield/floor-so there's a tube to both sides of the actuator for that one. There's an actuator that rotates high up in the HVAC box to close off flow to the defroster. That makes air coming up go out the dash vents. The heater opening at the floor closes off to make the air go up to the defrost or to the AC dash vents. The other motor is to the left and on the air return for inside air; it draws air from above the driver's feet and uses that rather than all outside air. Be aware that hose has a restrictor in it to open and close slowly; the restrictor is a ceramic that bleeds air through to control how quickly the opening occurs. If you take off the passenger hush panel and remove the glovebox door, you'll be able to see the electric actuator which moves the temperature door inside the HVAC box. That actuator may be inside the programmer box or may be a separate one up on top. By watching it while moving the temperature so it has to adjust, you can see if the clicking is coming from the actuator.
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