Last post on Nov 25, 2013 at 5:21 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Colorado and GMC Canyon
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Chevrolet Colorado, GMC Canyon, Electrical, Truck
#514 of 684 Re: 2007 Colorado LS [gmcustsvcsarah]
Dec 01, 2011 (3:04 pm)
Sarah. THNX for your concern! took care of the cust.serv. problem a year ago traded the 07 P.O S.(Colorado) off on an 07 Jeep Liberty and LOVE it! No rude,disrespectful service manager telling me "we don't care about your problem." "take your business somewhere else."
After which I call someone like you at good ol' G.M. who tells me "Sorry Randy Wise Chevrolet. Milan,Mi. is and Independent G.M. dealership there's nothing we can do." SOOooo with that said obviously G.M. DOSEN'T care how a service manager/owners son of the dealership treats thier customers!! The sad thing is I REALLY liked the trucks 4cyl. engine/gas milage. and was a "DIE HARD" chevy customer for yrs. But I guess paying back Obama & the boys is more important than a few satisfied customers..
Since my WONDERFUL treatment at Randy Wise Chevrolet. I've had a sign in the back window of my Colorado/Jeep stating just what they can do! and whenever someone asks why, I make it a point to tell them what was said to me by both Randy Wise/G.M. Have a nice day!
Randy Wise Chevrolet. Milan Mi. THE WORST DEALER ON THE PLANET!!!
#515 of 684 Re: 2007 Colorado LS [al6pndr]
Dec 02, 2011 (6:31 am)
I'm sorry for these frustrating experiences, al6pndr. I hope that your new vehicle serves you well.
GM Customer Service
#516 of 684 Re: 2007 Colorado LS [gmcustsvcsarah]
Dec 02, 2011 (10:02 pm)
I have to chuckle with this "Customer Care"represenatives trying to drum up business for their dealerships. How about arranging a recall on the truck?
The "we're sorry with your frustration" reminds me of those banking ads with 'Peggy'.
"Um, yeah, my colorado doesn't start, the driver's window doesn't work, the fob doesn't work, I've taken it to the dealer three times, they've replaced the BCM, the battery, the blower resistor, the fuse block, all the time saying they have never seen this problem before. Is there anything you can do about it?"
"Ah-low, dis is Peggy. You are waluable customer. You con change in your coupons for tokens, vich you con redeem for credits...."
Just sell the Colorado and buy a Chevy Volt. At least when that one burns up they'll buy it back.
#517 of 684 Re: Electrical issues 2004 Colorado [den052]
Dec 03, 2011 (4:39 am)
Could you forward me the pdf wiring diagram for 2005 colorado power window/lock issue.
#518 of 684 Locks and drivers door BS
Dec 04, 2011 (4:39 pm)
Ok. This is my first post and am obviously here becuz the same thing happened to me yesterday.Was putting the xmas lights up while listening to music from my 2007 colorado LS.(which i still love by the way.....for now). Never had a problem b4 listening to tunes and the battery dying but it happened yesterday. Dont know if maybe my passenger door was partially open,and the light was on or what, but it died. It would barely turn over and wouldnt start. i shut everything off and let it sit for a couple more hours and then it started no problem. Took it around the block to charge it up a bit and thats when i noticed the drivers side window and power locks not working and the remote for the keyless entry. (wtf does FOB mean btw?) I looked at it this morning,checking all fuses,reading the manual etc etc. Pulled every fuse and looked at them and then kept checking the problem to no avail.I made sure every fuse was all the way in, forcing them all in tight.Still didnt work. Got on the internet and read a bunch of posts here.I tried bstroud5073's tips about disconnecting the battery and putting the key in etc. It didnt work so i disconnected the battery and let it sit for 3 hours this time instead of just disconnecting it and hooking it right back up. So what i did was disconnect the battery for 3 hours,then put the key in and turned it to ACC,left the door open and then hooked the battery back up.The door chimes came on right away and then i tightened the the battery terminals tight.(didnt hear any clicking noises of relays or anything). I then got in the truck and closed the door,turned the ignition off and pulled out the key.The locks never made a sound when i pulled the key out,but the window and locks both worked when i tried them!!!( I never put the emergency brake on either at the start). So i was happier than a pig in you know what. Now my remote wont work for my keyless entry. Maybe when my battery died it sent some signal to my remote and fried the battery in it!!! Haha. Who the hell knows. Hopefully it will work in a few days. Pretty damn strange how you cant even disconnect your battery w/o losing power to some electrical items upon startup!! What a friggin joke!!! And there was a mechanic in here who said that disconnecting the battery wouldnt do anything to reset the BCM? Sorry bud but you obviously have no clue. If you have no explanation why a dying battery causes electrical components to not work upon startup,then your reasoning behind disconnecting the battery for a while not working to fix the problem, has no value.
Ive had the truck for a year and a half now and a rear signal light went a couple months ago.$1.99.Easy fix.No other problems until a month ago. My engine light came on and all of a sudden i cant pump gas into the tank at full pressure.Takes me about 20 minutes to fill up. Its not being able to release the air from inside the tank and i think the airline from the tank is plugged or something. I looked under the gas tank neck today and the airline is solid metal line welded to the main neck. I dont know how it could become plugged. Havent had it looked at yet as i have worked 27 days straight and havent really worried about it because im sure the engine light is on due to gas cap air pressure etc. Anyone know a fix for this problem?
Anyway,i havent even started the truck yet since fixing the door lock/window problem.I want to give it a good run, but ill wait til tomo morning when i go to work. I cant believe that with all these posts on here that there isnt a definite solution yet. Its all a guessing game. I read alot of posts in here.Spent all day reading other peoples posts and its such a shame that GM could care less about the people who "WERE" and are supporting them. Charging people astronomical amounts of money for 2 yrs old or less vehicles to be fixed.
Congrats to snaproll for his new truck.I read alot of his posts!! Hopefully, unlike him and many others, this isnt the start of my electrical nightmare!!! Or i'll be going to Ford next!! Dont mind fords. Dont dislike japanese cars,just cant afford them...lol.....Take care and good luck all!!
#519 of 684 Locks and drivers door BS
Dec 04, 2011 (5:30 pm)
I thought i maybe better take the truck out for a boot and see if everything works,half an hour after my last post. Its pouring rain out right now.I started down the road and drove a good 1/8 mile b4 i thot i needed to turn my wipers on.OMG,they dont work..lol. I went around the block a couple times checking everything else.I stopped and restarted the truck 3 or 4 times.I tried my remote for my keyless entry.Yayyyyy.It works!! Wipers dont but.......lol. While driving around the block a few times i started wondering if i put a fuse back in the wrong spot for the wipers.Hmmmm. Could i have? Got home, popped the hood and sure enuff i did.lol. What a relief!! Everything seems to be back to normal now but im now scared to roll the drivers side window down. I think a new battery is in order tho,what with winter coming and all. I'll just make sure that i wait a few hours to install it after disconnecting the old one.And i definitely wont be going to a dealer to get it!!!
#520 of 684 Re: Locks and drivers door BS [shyster66]
Dec 04, 2011 (5:35 pm)
Yeah, you have all the symptoms of the window/lock/battery thing. Disconnecting the battery may work, for me it was just the window module in the door. It may work for a few says, maybe a month. The problems will come back sooner or later. Get the thing running then sell it before it becomes an endless money pit.
It really comes down to which is the problem, the chicken or the egg kind of thing. Did the low battery cause the electrical problems or did the electrical problems cause the dead battery? It seems the two are related, the low battery and the weird electrical problems. It could be bad grounds causing feedback and stuff to fry. It could be the bad fuse block if you haven't replaced it. It could be bad programming on in the computer modules. Perhaps low voltage gets causes error codes in the computer modules. There are many things is could be, and any one of them could cause problems with the others, so it is virtually impossible to solve. It's impossible to tell if the problem is actually 'the problem' or just a symptom of something else that is the root cause.
You could take it to a good mechanic and spend $$ having them chase the problems. Or you can try a Chevy dealer, but I didn't have much luck with them randomly replacing parts. Needless to say I am pretty disgusted with Chevy service.
A couple things you should be aware of if you didn't know already. The head needs to be replaced on the trucks. There was a recall on that. The cylinders go flat because the head was improperly constructed. There was also a SB to replace a fuse block. This can't be the main problem because I had mine done yet I still had the ongoing electrical problems. My fuse block was actually burned. There was also a recall on the tail lights. They could stay on, they could fail completely, but... "Don't take your truck in unless you experience these issues". Uh-huh, wait until you get rear ended at night, then bring it in. (Well, that is what Chevy is good at, rear ending customers IMHO).
Again, seriously, your best bet is to get rid of the thing. I really loved my Colorado. If it was well built I would still have it. For its size, utility, gas milage, on paper it looks like a good vehicle. But... these weird electrical problems do not go away. It is simply a poorly designed system that Chevy did not stand by and rapes their customers over. If you want to experiment and "hope" for a while like I did, good luck to you. If you actually want to try the apologizing "Customer Care" reps from Chevy, give them a shot, but report back if they were able to do something except open your wallet.
The alternative is to get with a car company that actually stands by their product. I've never heard anything but good about Toyota. I'm not a fanboy of non-American products, but there's a limit of what is reasonable for a person to expect. Like I say, if nothing else, trade the Colorado in for a Chevy Volt and wait for that to burn up so they will buy it back, but I wouldn't hold my breath on the Colorado.
#521 of 684 Re: 2007 Colorado LS [snaproll1]
Dec 05, 2011 (5:45 am)
Thank you for your feedback on our services. I completely understand why many of you are on the forums looking for information; some because you donít trust your dealer, some because you are out of warranty and looking for a less expensive fix. Iím not sure you completely understand why I am here on the forum. Iím not here to drive business to the dealers or even on behalf of the dealers. Dealers are our eyes and ears in the field yet they are independently owned and operated. I am here on behalf of GM. I am here to listen to your concerns and report the concerns to GM; however, I am not a technician nor can I diagnosis a vehicle via the internet. Therefore I have to have the vehicle diagnosed by a dealer to report the proper concerns as well as attempt to have them addressed by GM as well as the dealer. I understand this can be frustrating for you that I donít have more technical information, but we do have the ability to contact dealers to see whatís going on or what the hold up is. GM is working to improve our customer service and so we are out here to hear you and your concerns and assist you. Each case is handled on a case by case basis. I can tell you that our service on different forums has helped us and many customers. Feel free to email me.
GM Customer Service
#522 of 684 Re: 2007 Colorado LS [gmcustsvc]
Dec 05, 2011 (8:41 am)
That is a good explanation and thank you for it. It is just frustrating that this "Drivers window, door lock" problem has not been addressed by the GM Pro's or troubleshooting team as to what is causing the problem. As a former GM Tech Mechanic, I have narrowed down the problem to either a voltage supply problem to the door/window lock module, or a "window/lock" drivers module problem or replacement. After using dielectric grease on all the drivers window module connections of my Colorado, the problem has not returned yet. All the disconnecting batteries and the various "shade tree mechanics" mentioned before is not really a FIX. Rest assured that if other people have done these things and the window/lock problem goes away, THEY WERE JUST LUCKY as the problem appears random and will cure itself sometimes for a while. My truck has actually had the problem 3 times. Cured itself twice just by waiting a month or two, and the last time I greased the connections as I mentioned before (and sofar no problem). I am convinced that there is no problem with the BODY COMPUTER OR MODULE HAVING TO BE RESET, ETC.
Dennis S Tomlinson
Certified Master Light and Heavy vehicle Technician, 30 yrs+ with extensive electrical background.
#523 of 684 Re: 2007 Colorado LS [den052]
Dec 05, 2011 (10:16 am)
If Customer Service can be of any assistance (look into warranty/recall information or assist in working with a dealership), please don't hesitate to get in touch with us via email with more information.
GM Customer Service