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Pickups Chevrolet Colorado and GMC Canyon Chevy Colorado and GMC Canyon Electrical Problems
250 messages, Last post on Dec 05, 2009 at 9:32 PM
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Replying to: snaproll1 (Aug 19, 2007 3:19 pm) I called the dealer, sounds like they never heard of this problem. The guy I did talk to says the ABS fault is problably because of the battery being low. So something is draining the battery along with the other problem. I'm guessing it must have to be in the driver's door unit. There is a small ciruit board and possibly a weak component like a resistor or something. I'm guessing this because I had the problem, took the unit apart like I say above and the problem was fixed. Nothing else was done to the truck other than messing with this door unit. Perhaps the problem is somewhere else and disconnecting this unit resets something somewhere else, but at least it appears narrowed down. I've scheduled an appointment at the dealer in a few days but the window is open right now, so I'm going to mess with it and see if I can get it to work. I'll report the findings if I'm successful again tonight.
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Replying to: snaproll1 (Aug 21, 2007 8:51 am) Based on this, reading an earlier post where the dealer told the guy that "the circuit has to cool from raising both windows at the same time" or whatever is complete cr#p. The conditions were dry the first time it happened, the truck had just been driven 30 miles, shut off, restarted again, parked for a couple hours and the problem came out of the blue. A jump started the truck, it was driven home, parked overnight, the problem healed itself. Fine all day. Next morning dead. As soon as I disassembled the module and sprayed the contacts with cleaner it worked again. Fine for the rest of the day. Next morning dead again. Drove it broke all day, it didn't heal itself. Got home, cleaned the contacts again and the problem is fixed. So the first time it fixed itself, the next two it was broken until I messed with the window/lock/mirror module, cleaned the contacts and it worked right away. It's hard to believe it could be related to anything else like the instrument cluster. I still have the dealer appointment for this Friday so I'll keep posting if the thing dies again or if the dealer has any fixes. In the mean time I'm going to have to drive around with a screwdriver, can of contact cleaner and a spare battery and jumper cables 
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Replying to: snaproll1 (Aug 21, 2007 8:51 am)
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Replying to: mikeof48 (Aug 21, 2007 5:37 pm) Having taken it apart I can't see how wiring is getting pinched in the door. I wiggled the wires and connectors, no effect. It was only when I unhooked the harnesses and sprayed contact cleaner on them that it worked. The dealer I'm going to are pretty square shooters so I'm going to trust them... this time. If the problem happens again in the next few days I will raise holly hell for sure.
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Replying to: snaproll1 (Aug 24, 2007 9:13 am)
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Replying to: snaproll1 (Aug 27, 2007 6:30 am) I am so absolutely not a happy camper. Naturally it's the holiday weekend so I can't choke the dealer, who by the way is GUSTMAN CHEVY in Kaukauna Wisconsin.
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Replying to: snaproll1 (Sep 02, 2007 1:15 pm) They assure me beyond a reasonable doubt that messing with the door module has nothing to do with the problem. That disconnecting the module only resets something in the BCM fixing the problem but not curing it. Ok, that is possible. So what about the $400 BCM they replaced? Oh it needed to be replaced they tell me. A code came back that said it was bad and had probably gotten trashed from a short in the fuse block they also replaced. Ummmm, ok. Well there was nothing that didn't work on the truck if the BCM was "bad" before. Oh, but it controls so many systems that there are ones I probably haven't used like the airbag. So in other words it would be the equivelent of taking the truck in for the window issue and having them determine that the fix would be to replace the worn tires. Then when the window still doesn't work having them say, "Yeah, but you needed the new tires anyway to be safe". Wrong. I would still 'take my chances' with the old BCM that worked rather than spending $400 bucks on a new one to 'be sure'. I authorized it to be replaced because they assured me it was the problem. It wasn't the problem. So we're going to have to 'talk' about that one. Now they are going to have somebody troubleshoot the relays and such in the truck. They're figuring that the BCM is not shutting off with the truck and running the battery down. That would mean that the BCM problem has to have the ability to drain the battery in a matter of an hour. My guess is they will replace some other part and want to charge me for it as the 'real solution' to the problem and still stick me with the bill for the BCM because it was 'bad anyway'. Again, that would be like putting on new tires, finding it doesn't solve the problem but saying, "You needed the tires anyway". I don't think so. I'll post what I find out. Oh yeah, one other thing. They scoff at internet, "You can read anything about any part on a car being bad and all of it is BS". Huh? Funny. According to them they have never encountered this door lock, fob, driver's window problem before. Their 'database' has no reference to it. So I guess all the other posts here about the problem "must not have happened". I guess all you other people are imagining the problem too. I did call the 800 Chevy number that somebody suggested earlier and opened a case. Those people are all trained very well. "We sympathize and understand" about 20 times in a 10 minute conversation. Then offer the, "And we'll give you something free" just to pacify you enough to not think the unthinkable of not buying another Chevy. Well??? All I want is my fricking truck fixed for a reasonable price or I'm going to trade it and never buy another Chevy product again. |
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Replying to: snaproll1 (Sep 02, 2007 1:15 pm) |
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Replying to: snaproll1 (Sep 07, 2007 7:26 am) Ok, here's the deal (they say). The battery (only 2.5 years old) held a "good" surface charge but went flat quickly. If the battery went flat (possible short in the battery), when the voltage was low the door module would "lock up" and could only be cleared by disconnecting the door module, (except once if "fixed" itself without pulling the module). The last service trip they got a code back that said the BCM was dead and assumed this was causing the door problem. They did a search for that code and found a service bulletin saying the fuse block could be the cause. They checked the fuse block and found a burned spot. They were kind enough to replace the fuse block on the 2.5 year old truck but wouldn't cover the BCM it apparently took out. The theory is that it could have cashed in the battery as well. Or the battery could have cashed in the fuse block which took out the BCM. In any event, the theorpy now is that the weakened battery not holding a charge would die at random times and the low voltage would lock up the door module. Replacing the BCM and fuse block "fixed everything"... except for the problem. I'm wondering now if something is whacking the battery that they haven't found, that ruined the last battery and this new one, holding a charge longer will just cover up the problem until it is ruined. According to them, there is no draw on the battery anymore (something like .29 ma). Apparently the BCM has a sizable electrical draw and if it is not "shutting down" properly. According to them this only happens when the key is fully removed from the ignition. The bottom line is I have $500 in bills for stuff that shouldn't fail in 2.5 years. Life goes on... unless this fails again. |
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Replying to: snaproll1 (Sep 07, 2007 1:18 pm) In short (literally) over the weekend (the day after the service) the blower fan started to act up, would only work on high and eventually started blowing smoke and burnt wiring smell. Back to the dealer on Monday. Turns out the blower motor resistor just happened to fail the day after they were charging and discharging the battery to trail down the window problem to the battery. So there's another $130 bucks. There is a harness between the resistor and the wiring that was burnt. The mechanic said it didn't look like a good connection. I wonder if they has to disconnect the harness when they replaced the blower motor that failed last March. Aside from wrapping the wire into the steering shaft I think the mechanics at the dealership are pretty competent. So the truck is 2.5 years old and has had 5 major electrical failures, the BCM, the fuse block, the blower motor, the battery and the resistor. I'll post what the Chevy rep has to say... Oh, yeah... I guess in the last post I forgot to mention that when changing the battery they managed to get a wire from the battery terminal to the bed cap light wound into the steering column. I picked the truck up, made a left turn out of the dealership, went to straighten out the wheel and it was like the power steering failed. I drifted into oncoming traffic but managed to yank the wheel back to the right with a loud thump, (wire broke). I get back into the dealer. The guy who changed the battery just left the cable hanging over the steering shaft and didn't bother to connect it back in a retaining clip. I'm not too shook up about that. It could happen to anyone. I've done stuff like that before. It makes me wonder though if this guy maybe used to work for ValueJet. |
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