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Chevy Colorado and GMC Canyon Electrical Problems

671 messages,  Last post on May 09, 2013 at 1:10 PM

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What is this discussion about? Chevrolet Colorado, GMC Canyon, Electrical, Truck

Messages Page 50 of 68

#484 of 671 Re: 2005 Chevrolet Colorado Electrical Problems [mark_1963] by den052

Sep 18, 2011 (10:39 am)

Replying to: mark_1963 (Sep 17, 2011 7:55 pm)
sorry Mark 1962, but I would have never paid the $33 for the brake light problem as it is under recall. Regarding the Blower and drivers window, first the blower problem.
 
1. Look under the dash on the passenger side by the blower motor you will see a connector with I believe 5 fairly heavy wires. If you unplug that, you will find some terminals that are dark and starting to burn. This is the blower issue problem. I removed the resistor assembly (2 screws), trimmed the plastic material from around the terminals and soldered wires to the terminals. I cut the plug on the vehicle side and spliced the wires together with good electrical butt connector splices. Problem was fixed permanently.
 
2. The drivers window/door lock problem is a little more intense. Remove the drivers window/lock module and remove the plug in connections and use silicone grease (dielectric grease), available at a parts store on the connections. Reinstall and see if that fixes the problem. If problem does not re-occur it is fixed. If it does, using a wiring diagram, trace the circuit back to the door lock and window fuses. Check for voltage at the orange wire where it enters the drivers module for 12 volts while someone is operating the window or door locks. If no voltage, there is a problem between that and the connection that supplies power to the fuses. As a last resort, if no other problems are found, replace the drivers window/lock module (about $135-150). Give me a message with your email address, I can PDF the wiring diagrams to you.
BTW, the engine stalling issue you mentioned was probably not with the BCM (or Body Control Module), it was with the ECM (or engine control module). They may have told you the wrong unit. The BCM does nothing but control body functions, (lighting, windows, radio, etc). The ECM has total control over the engine. Based upon my 35+ years as a mechanic, problems rarely are traced actually to the computers. It is usually a sensor or connection problem. Experts agree with the above statement, as many computers are replaced and sent back to the rebuild center that are found with nothing wrong with them. I recently repaired a transmission speed sensor problem by removing the computer plug and silicone greasing the connection. Had I replaced the computer, it probably would have cured the problem in the connection also, but silicone grease is $1.50 where a rebuilt computer is $200+, and they would have gotten a computer core that there was nothing wrong with it back at the rebuild center.

#485 of 671 Re: 2005 Chevrolet Colorado Electrical Problems [canyon08] by al6pndr

Sep 18, 2011 (11:08 am)

Replying to: canyon08 (Sep 18, 2011 8:24 am)
You ARE lucky you did get the good one. Had an 07 bought brand new nothing but an electronic NIGHTMARE!! Dealer was upset because I sent neg. feedback on G.M.workmanship questionaire. After 3 trips to fix same problem= 3 neg feedback,dealer told me "take your truck somewhere else we don't care about your problem/don't want your business." Told G.M... thier response was "what ya want us to do about it?"
 
ANYONE with one of these trucks should "fix it & sell it." A.S.A.P.!!!
 
Randy Wise Chevrolet Milan Mi. The worst dealer on the planet!!!

#486 of 671 Re: 2005 Chevrolet Colorado Electrical Problems [al6pndr] by fmagellan

Sep 19, 2011 (11:27 am)

Replying to: al6pndr (Sep 18, 2011 11:08 am)
I recently had problems with my 2005 Colorado. I had a dead battery, malfunctioning driver window (other 3 work), door lock malfunction. I did a little research and came across this site. I thought I had an isolated electrical gremlin. Guess it turns out I'm just one of many with the same gremlin (or should I say monster). I managed to "fix" the problem by disconnecting the driver control module connections.
 
This is just one of my many problems with my truck. Cyliner heads (fixed 8000 miles and the truck has not been the same since), parking and headlamps malfunctioning (bad connectors), misfire during rt. hand turns (Chevy couldn't figure that one out either. It still misses and is a hazard & liability), windows don't go down (then mysteriously work 2 minutes later), cruise control (didn't work for 1 day and then mysteriously started working), heavy carboning of the throttle body, and now my most recent problem. What's next???
 
I still think its poor wiring and bad grounds (I get real bad static shock during the winter when I shut the doors. Don't know if that has any bearing on bad grounds.
 
As long as I can remember, all of my immediate family members have driven GM vehicles. I am extremely displeased with my Colorado. It has been nothing but a headache. Don't get me wrong, I like my truck for a lot of reasons, not to mention it's a great looking truck. However, with all the enduring headaches, repeated trips to the dealer(with no results of course), and cash thrown into it, I may have no other choice but to dump it, along with my loyalty to GM products. I really don't want to do it, but after reading the previous 49 pages of gripes with nothing more than getting referred back to the dealer where they can blindly throw parts at it, it's a great possibility. I will continue to monitor this website. GM needs to solve this issue by the time I'm ready to sell and get someone on here other than a rep referring me to another dealer and inviting me to throw away more hard earned money or GM will lose more than just myself as an "unvalued" customer. I will make sure to spread the word that GM cannot be trusted as a reliable auto maker. Especially when my profession puts me in front of 125 to 150 youths a day, each year. That's a lot of potential GM buyers.
 
Ok. I'm done ranting. If anyone has any info related to any of these problems, please reply (for the sake of all our sanity).

#487 of 671 Re: 2005 Chevrolet Colorado Electrical Problems [fmagellan] by den052

Sep 19, 2011 (2:12 pm)

Replying to: fmagellan (Sep 19, 2011 11:27 am)
Other than the "recent" posts, there is nothing more to say. This thread addresses the "drivers window/lock and blower issues". I believe the last 2 pages outline what can be done. Other than that, the only thing I can help on is the wiring diagrams that are in PDF. I believe they are also located on this forum or in this thread. If not, contact me private message and I will send you the PDF's to your email address.
You can also contact the representative from the factory that is mentioned throughout this thread and request an Incident number to get this resolved at a local dealership.

#488 of 671 Re: 2005 Chevrolet Colorado Electrical Problems [den052] by tiffany_1608

Sep 19, 2011 (4:06 pm)

Replying to: den052 (Sep 18, 2011 10:39 am)
my colorado is having the window and lock problems now we cant figure them out. Now it is having the blower problems. what else can I expect?

#489 of 671 Re: 2005 Chevrolet Colorado Electrical Problems [tiffany_1608] by gmcustsvc

Sep 21, 2011 (9:18 am)

Replying to: tiffany_1608 (Sep 19, 2011 4:06 pm)
tiffany_1608,
 
Were you planning on taking the vehicle into your local GM dealership to be diagnosed? Please keep me posted.
 
Thank you,
Caron, GM Customer Service

#490 of 671 Re: 2005 Chevrolet Colorado Electrical Problems [tiffany_1608] by al6pndr

Sep 21, 2011 (1:40 pm)

Replying to: tiffany_1608 (Sep 19, 2011 4:06 pm)
Burned out..battereis,ecm, bcm,fuses,fuse pannel, alternator. The list goes on & on.. Chevy the gift that keeps on giving!! (to the dealerships.)

#491 of 671 Re: 2005 Chevrolet Colorado Electrical Problems [tiffany_1608] by fmagellan

Sep 22, 2011 (5:48 am)

Replying to: tiffany_1608 (Sep 19, 2011 4:06 pm)
tiffany1608,
 
I just had the same problems. Lemme guess.....dead battery, now the driver side window won't go down but the other 3 will and locks won't work at all but the FOB seems to work but the doors don't unlock or lock?
 
Here's how I remedied the situation. Replaced the battery. Remove the driver control panel (2 screws) and unplug the connectors, let them sit for a couple of minutes unplugged, and plug them back in. Might be a good idea to use some contact grease between the connections.
 
Don't take it to the dealer, especially if it's not under warranty. They don't know what the problem is and all that will happen is you will end up spending more than what you can "fix" it for yourself. They will tell you you need a new driver control module/BCM that will cost at least $350.
 
If I can figure it out (and I'm not a mechanic) so can you. Good luck and keep us posted.

#492 of 671 Re: 2005 Chevrolet Colorado Electrical Problems [fmagellan] by den052

Sep 22, 2011 (6:19 am)

Replying to: fmagellan (Sep 22, 2011 5:48 am)
As a Master Mechanic on light and heavy vehicles for over 35 years, replacing the battery doesn't do anything for fixing the problem. 12 volts setting and 14.2 volts running is just that. No matter what battery you remove or install, it is still 12.2 volts when vehicle is shut off. Some people report that the problem fixed itself by disconnecting or replacing the battery. I can assure you since this is such a random problem that they got lucky when they did that and it functioned again. Not because of the battery disconnect or replacement. Mine started working again without touching anything a few years ago. After 3 months of non-operation all of a sudden the locks and window functioned again. When it acted up again, I removed the module and silicone greased the connections. Problem solved so far, (not guaranteed).
If it acts up again, I am going to attack the fuse box connections feeding the drivers module.
 
Dennis Tomlinson "Certified ASE Master Light and Heavy vehicles". (Volkswagen to heavy semi trucks).
 
Area of most expertise is computer and electrical issues.

#493 of 671 Re: 2005 Chevrolet Colorado Electrical Problems [den052] by bitsmasher

Sep 22, 2011 (6:33 am)

Replying to: den052 (Sep 22, 2011 6:19 am)
I completely agree with Den052. While the battery going south may have initiated the problem, replacing it won't fix it. The low voltage of the old battery pushed a lot more current through the connectors then they were designed for - this includes the fuse connectors in the fuse block, causing them to overheat and lose their gripping. This results in an intermittant connection that can fluctuate when outside temperatures rise and fall. I describe how I fixed this problem on mine in posts 426 and 438 in this forum - not elegant, but I haven't touched it since then and it still works fine. Good luck!

Messages Page 50 of 68

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