Last post on May 09, 2013 at 1:10 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Colorado and GMC Canyon
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Chevrolet Colorado, GMC Canyon, Electrical, Truck
#476 of 671 Re: Electrical issues 2004 Colorado [chykbykr]
Sep 05, 2011 (6:40 pm)
"Any advice? Getting rid of it isn't really an option."
Sorry to hear that. Unfortunately I think it is your best option. This truck model is an electrical money pit. Well there is another option, sooner or later the "GM Team" will read your post, apologize for your frustration and then invite you to spend more money at your local Chevy dealer to experiment with trying to fix your problems. When that doesn't work, they'll offer you four oil changes and a free tire rotation "worth $450 dollars".
This thread had been going on for at least 4 years without any concrete leads. There have been a lot of good leads and thoughts, bad grounds, bad connectors, weak alternator, crimped wiring, burned fuse blocks, bad BCMs. It could be any of this stuff or a combination of anything.
In short it is simply bad engineering and a bankrupt company that refused to recall a defective product. After they raped their customers, they raped the taxpayers to stay in business. The sooner these things are in the junkyard GM will breath easier.
Also make sure your Colorado has had the head replaced under warranty otherwise it is big $$$ to do it on your own. Also don't forget the recall on the tail lights that may stay on, or not come on at all. Oh yes, it's not a recall until you have a problem with them, like getting rear ended. But that's what Chevy expects to happen to their customers... Buy a Toyota and get your money's worth.
#477 of 671 Re: Electrical issues 2004 Colorado [snaproll1]
Sep 09, 2011 (7:47 am)
The many problems with the drivers window and locks can be traced to a fuse in the fuse box. It doesn't make good enough contact on the component side. When the problem is experienced, if you take a DVM (digital voltmeter), and probe the fuse (while someone is activating the drivers window), you will find a voltage drop at the contact for the fuse. It will read system voltage on the one contact to the fuse and low voltage on the other contact. I am testing the contacts to the fuse, not the fuse itself. Cleaning and greasing the connection with silicone grease seemed to correct it for me. Others may have to bypass the fuse somehow with solder and a fuse holder and wire.
The other problem with the blower speed resistor I fixed by removing the resistor and directly soldering the wires to the resistor. The problem with that one is oxidation on the spade terminals. There is quite an amount of blower motor current that goes through these connections. They tend to heat up and make what is called "oxidation". The more oxidation there is, the more heat is made, therefore the "vicious circle" causes the connections to go bad. The reason it works only on high is the high speed connection goes through a fan relay instead of the fan motor itself. On the high speed connection, there is very little amperage through it so it doesn't make corrosion on the terminal (oxidation).
Hope this helps somewhat with explanation of some very common problems.
It can be fixed. Humans put it together and humans can fix it if they are smart at troubleshooting. The best thing I learned troubleshooting electrical issues is that you have to create a load on a circuit under test to troubleshoot bad voltage connections, or you will not see the problem. In other words, if your headlights don't come on, leave the switch on and start back-probing with a DVM or test light. Unless you leave draw on the circuit, your test light or DVM will indicate system voltage under a "no load" condition. I cannot stress this enough in troubleshooting electrical issues. You have to have an assistant operate the door locks and or window while you are troubleshooting to find the voltage drop.
Sincerely, Master certified Tech, Light and Heavy duty vehicles and trucks.
#478 of 671 Re: Electrical issues 2004 Colorado [den052]
Sep 11, 2011 (4:54 pm)
That is a great post, one of the best and most informative on the problem. It makes sense and it sounds like logical troubleshooting. I wish you had posted it back in 2007 before I took the Colorado in for service to the local Chevy dealer. Of course the Chevy dealer said, "Don't believe ANYTHING you read on internet, we're the experts..." Uh-huh, yeah, right.
If you still own a Colorado and take it to one of their dealers for this "nonexistant problem", just remember, the Colorado is "the gift that keeps on giving year after year"... to their service department.
#479 of 671 Re: Electrical issues 2004 Colorado [snaproll1]
Sep 11, 2011 (5:14 pm)
Yep CHEVROLET the gift that KEEPS on giving!!... To the dealership, Oh yeah I almost forgot Randy Wise Chevrolet Milan Mi.The WORST dealer on the planet!!!
#480 of 671 Re: Electrical issues 2004 Colorado [al6pndr]
Sep 11, 2011 (6:56 pm)
Keep in mind that in addition to the fuse problem, the drivers switch module can also be the other problem with the window/lock defect. Some people have replaced it and problem solved (about $175). I replaced a friend of mine module and silicone greased the connections to the module and it was fixed. Not everyone will have the fuse problem before mentioned. It is just two areas that are highly suspect when this occurs. Another Colorado I fixed just by siliconing the connections to the module and used it over again. I will guarantee that disconnecting the battery cables and etc. don't fix it, you just got lucky if it started working after that. A lot of people report the problem when the weather is cold, which backs up the connection problem as being a big issue.
Gee, Randy Wise in Milan is only about 60 miles from me.
#481 of 671 2005 Chevrolet Colorado Electrical Problems
Sep 17, 2011 (7:55 pm)
I have had to have the BCM replaced because the truck was stalling in the middle of the Freeway, In houston this is not a good thing. My Blower only works on High but on occasion will work on other speeds, tends to have a mind of its own. Also, the Drivers side Electric window also has a mind of its own. Now that the warranty is up, of course. The Dealer wants to charge me 98.00 just to look at it. When I told him of the previous BCM issue (under warranty) and now that the truck has 100,000 miles on it and clearly out of warranty, he told me that if it were the same issue, they would have to contact Chevy Corporate to get a decision rendered on if they would pay for it or not, or partially. I have heard alot of horror stories about this vehicle with related problems. It is sad that me being a chevy owner for over 35 yrs and me splurging for a non-base model for once, that I would get burned like this. I suppose my father may had some great wisdom by only buying and swearing by FORD. I suppose I should have listened. Does anyone have any ideas on what may be causing these two issues? BTW I just went to the dealer to have the brake lights fixed, a recall.. but it cost me 33.00. Intersting
#482 of 671 Re: 2005 Chevrolet Colorado Electrical Problems [mark_1963]
Sep 18, 2011 (6:51 am)
Sorry to hear about your problems Mark. I don't know how much time you'd had to go through the 450+ posts here, but your truck has all the lemon symptoms, the driver's window, blower, BCM, tail lights. If you haven't experienced it yet, there are also huge problems with a fuse block, the engine head, instrument panel, door locks, blower resistor, dead battery, CD player that doesn't work.
I've been following this thread since 2007 when I started having trouble with the fob/driver's window. There have been several good theories and it could be any one or a combination of issues. Bad grounds, bad fuse blocks, bad connectors, too small an alternator. The list goes on but none of the possible solutions are easy to implement or confirm.
Your best bet is to get the truck running and sell the think as quickly as possible before the next $1000 dollar problem appears or is uncovered. I'm serious. I think the truck is a great concept, bought mine new, loved the thing up until the nightmares with the electrical system started. The Chevy dealer was less than useless, randomly replacing parts saying, "This time's the charm", while the dollars flew from my pocket into theirs. I got Chevy involved and they tried dodge the bullet by offering four oil changes and a tire rotation. Since they have become Obama Motors there's a couple of "Customer Care Representitives" lurking the forum that will try to get you to spend more dollars at a dealership, but other than that, Chevy probably just hopes the Colorados and Canyons end up in the junkyards as quickly as possible. Customer satisfaction, loyalty and quality obviously don't mean much when the worst that happens is you get an infusion of Obamadollars to keep on trucki'n.
I finally gave up on my Colorado this summer. I traded it for a Toyota. I never, in a million years thought I would buy anything but American but Chevy deserves bankruptcy.
Seriously, cut your losses and get out of the Colorado. Unless you have a really good mechanic that can troubleshoot these weird problems, or the time to tinker with inspecting every electrical connector and ground on the truck, the desire to replace the alternator with one that can handle the load, get a new battery about every 3 years, don't mind burning BCMs out, window modules etc... get out from under it while you can.
#483 of 671 Re: 2005 Chevrolet Colorado Electrical Problems [snaproll1]
Sep 18, 2011 (8:24 am)
I have a 2008 Canyon crewcab, have 90,000 kms on it, have had a problem with the tail light which I fixed with some wd-40, other than that I must say I have had no problems with the truck, sorry guys! guess I got the good one! Love the truck! Hope I haven't jinxed myself...!
#484 of 671 Re: 2005 Chevrolet Colorado Electrical Problems [mark_1963]
Sep 18, 2011 (10:39 am)
sorry Mark 1962, but I would have never paid the $33 for the brake light problem as it is under recall. Regarding the Blower and drivers window, first the blower problem.
1. Look under the dash on the passenger side by the blower motor you will see a connector with I believe 5 fairly heavy wires. If you unplug that, you will find some terminals that are dark and starting to burn. This is the blower issue problem. I removed the resistor assembly (2 screws), trimmed the plastic material from around the terminals and soldered wires to the terminals. I cut the plug on the vehicle side and spliced the wires together with good electrical butt connector splices. Problem was fixed permanently.
2. The drivers window/door lock problem is a little more intense. Remove the drivers window/lock module and remove the plug in connections and use silicone grease (dielectric grease), available at a parts store on the connections. Reinstall and see if that fixes the problem. If problem does not re-occur it is fixed. If it does, using a wiring diagram, trace the circuit back to the door lock and window fuses. Check for voltage at the orange wire where it enters the drivers module for 12 volts while someone is operating the window or door locks. If no voltage, there is a problem between that and the connection that supplies power to the fuses. As a last resort, if no other problems are found, replace the drivers window/lock module (about $135-150). Give me a message with your email address, I can PDF the wiring diagrams to you.
BTW, the engine stalling issue you mentioned was probably not with the BCM (or Body Control Module), it was with the ECM (or engine control module). They may have told you the wrong unit. The BCM does nothing but control body functions, (lighting, windows, radio, etc). The ECM has total control over the engine. Based upon my 35+ years as a mechanic, problems rarely are traced actually to the computers. It is usually a sensor or connection problem. Experts agree with the above statement, as many computers are replaced and sent back to the rebuild center that are found with nothing wrong with them. I recently repaired a transmission speed sensor problem by removing the computer plug and silicone greasing the connection. Had I replaced the computer, it probably would have cured the problem in the connection also, but silicone grease is $1.50 where a rebuilt computer is $200+, and they would have gotten a computer core that there was nothing wrong with it back at the rebuild center.
#485 of 671 Re: 2005 Chevrolet Colorado Electrical Problems [canyon08]
Sep 18, 2011 (11:08 am)
You ARE lucky you did get the good one. Had an 07 bought brand new nothing but an electronic NIGHTMARE!! Dealer was upset because I sent neg. feedback on G.M.workmanship questionaire. After 3 trips to fix same problem= 3 neg feedback,dealer told me "take your truck somewhere else we don't care about your problem/don't want your business." Told G.M... thier response was "what ya want us to do about it?"
ANYONE with one of these trucks should "fix it & sell it." A.S.A.P.!!!
Randy Wise Chevrolet Milan Mi. The worst dealer on the planet!!!