Last post on Nov 25, 2013 at 5:21 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Colorado and GMC Canyon
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Chevrolet Colorado, GMC Canyon, Electrical, Truck
#435 of 684 Re: door locks and driver window [gmcustsvc]
May 22, 2011 (1:28 pm)
Caron, I have a 2005 Colorado that was having issues with starting and my wife took it to our dealer in Salida, Co. to have them look at it. When they drove it out, they said they could not find anything wrong with starting, but all of a sudden the drivers window wouldn't go up and the door locks wouldn't work at all. The guy did get the window up so she could drive it home, but things still didn't work. He told her that it would take a $160 part to fix it. We let it go for a while, frankly because I was pissed about them breaking it and expecting us to pay to fix it. I have seen some of these scams at work!
One evening about a month later, I went to unlock my 2007 Chevy Dually with my remote, and our Colorado's horn beeped. I had to make sure I had the right remote. It WAS for the Dually. We got in the Colorado and drove to our destination, put it in park and the door locks "UNLOCKED". The drivers window also went up and down fine. A MIRACLE!! These all worked fine until this weekend when I went to clean the battery terminals. I had all the windows down (it's a crew-cab) and didn't think anything about it until I was finished and went to back out of my shop. The door locks didn't work and the window wouldn't roll up AGAIN!! I found some activity on the net on fixes for this, but they did not work. I have to wonder why a part of the electrical is hooked in a way so it screws-up when you unhook the battery and re-connect it? The truck has over 128,000 miles on it and runs SUPER. My wife wouldn't trade it except for another one. BUT!! It appears to me reading the net chats that there needs to be a "re-call" on this problem. I have been in mechanics since the early 70's, both automotive and HD diesel, and have not ran across anything like this from just unhooking the battery. At first I was mad at the dealership maintenance people for causing this problem, now I'm upset with GM for having a simple PM project like cleaning the battery terminals turn into a major problem where we can't even drive our truck. What part is actually messing up?? The horn still beeps to lock and unlock, but the locks don't work with it and the passenger switch won't work them either. I am open for a reasonable cure for this so I can get my wife back on the road.
Looking for a CURE!! Ray
#436 of 684 Re: door locks and driver window [ghosttrekker_1]
May 23, 2011 (5:02 am)
Ray, you have the same problem that most of these 400 posts are about and it is a problem must Colorados and Canyons have and one that Obama Motors has "never heard of" in the 5+ years it has been happening.
If you take your truck to a dealer they will shoot in the dark and replace components like the BCM until the problem resolves itself until the next time it happens.
I've been following these posts since the problem happened to my truck (twice) since 2007.
It has to be an electrical/computer glitch. The fact that your dually remote solved it initially really backs this up. There have been enough posts on the weird habits of this truck to confirm this. This problem with the windows and FOB usually starts with the truck battery being dead. After a jump start the windows and FOB doesn't work and the truck batter will be dead again in a couple of days. Here are some possible fixes if you haven't had time to go through the 400+ posts in it.
1) Disconnect the window door module and reconnect it. This worked for me the first time for a few days. There are three connectors on the door module. It's an easy test and may fix your problem. Apparently it resets something in the electrical system. I took the truck to a GM dealer and they replaced the $400 BCM but that did not fix the problem. They replaced the battery, burned up the blower resistor while they were testing and said it was fixed (until it happened again). Even though disconnecting the door module fixed the problem the chevy dealer said it had nothing to do with the problem. Disconnect and reconnect the door module and see if it fixes your problem.
2) Replace the door module. This is an expensive fix but what it took the second time around. It's an expensive fix, but worked the second time around. (By the way the Chevy dealer swore up and down that the door module has nothing to do with the problem). Since the door module ($350) has been replaced things are fine.
3) Another inexpensive fix to try is to disconnect the battery overnight. I've heard this will heal the problem by allowing capacitors to discharge that may be holding some computer code in memory that is causing the problem. Never tried that one so I don't know. There is an extended thing to try if you want and that is to short out the battery leads (after disconnecting from the battery of course) to quickly drain any left over stored electrical in the system. Sometimes this has appeard to work but if it is a long term solution like disconnecting and reconnecting the window module is unknown.
4) Another "fix" talked about is that the truck has really poor grounds. The thought is that electrical current backflows through some of the sensitive components and fries them because the current can't find a good ground.
5) Wiggling the door module cables. Probably tied in with replacing or disconnecting the door module. This fix worked for one guy.
6) Bad fuse block. There was a sirvice bulletin on the fuse block and it was replaced on my truck when it had the initial problem. The tech mentioned that there were "scorch marks" on the fuse block. I assumed this was the initial problem that caused the deal with the door locks and fob, until it happened a couple years after.
7) The dealers shooting in the dark replacing BCMs and batteries until the problem goes away for a while.
It is definitely related to the computers the electrical system and low voltage in the system.
One other thing with the Colorado you may or may not be aware of. Theew is a problem with the head (I5) for the truck. It wasn't hardened enough around the valve seats and the cylinders go flat. This one was a service recall to replace the head (up to 100K miles). The head replacement takes about 3 weeks and if not covered under the warranty will run about $3500 bucks. The trucks also have some problem with the tail lights going out or staying on. I got a service letter on that. "Unless you experience this problem do not contact your GM dealership". Um? Yeah, right. Probably the first I would notice it would be getting rear ended. Of course it is only covered up to 100K miles. Why the wiring would wear out over 100K miles would be a mystery to me.
On the initial issue it is evident that GM ignores the problem and doesn't have a clue how to actually fix it. Apparently they were never a great seller so I'm thinking it probably isn't worth the bother for them to figure out and fix, just more economical to quietly let them end up in the junk yard.
The concept of the truck is a really good one. If your wife loves the truck, just be aware that these problems can occur and reoccur at any time for no apparent reason and without any apparent fix and no definitive dealer solution. In short the Colorado is a
If she likes the size etc then get a Toyota Tacoma or something while the Colorado is still running. Otherwise you'll end up like me with these $1000 dollar repair bills. While it's broken you swear you're going to sell the truck. Then $1000 dollars later you think that maybe this will be the last weird problem so you don't sell it, then some other weird $1000 dollar problem crops up and you wish you would have sold it while it was running. Tell your wife she can learn to love a Toyota and your pocket book will be much better off.
#437 of 684 Re: door locks and driver window [snaproll1]
May 23, 2011 (6:57 am)
snaproll1-- keep politics out of this forum. Obama has nothing to do with the quality issues at GM.
#438 of 684 Re: door locks and driver window [ghosttrekker_1]
May 23, 2011 (7:32 am)
Try this first - take the door switch out but leave it connected. On the blue connector there is an orange wire. This should have 12 volts direct from the fuse. Try to get a probe from a voltmeter into the back of the connector and put the other probe into the ignition switch (or another good ground) and see if you have a solid 12v. Then pull the blue connector off and check the orange wire again. If it is less then 12v, your switch is probably OK and the problem is in the wire or fuseblock. On my Canyon crew cab I found that if I bulked up the front leg of the fuse with some strands of copper wire it made a better connection in the fuse block. Everything has been fine since I did that.
#439 of 684 Re: door locks and driver window [ghosttrekker_1]
May 23, 2011 (7:58 am)
I would like to set up a case with GM Customer Assistance. In order to set up the case I will need your complete contact information (including full name, mailing address and phone number), VIN, current mileage and involved dealership sent to me in an email. Also, could you please provide a brief description of the problems you are experiencing?
Caron, GM Customer Service
#440 of 684 Re: door locks and driver window [ghosttrekker_1]
May 23, 2011 (1:18 pm)
Ray. Here's the cure GET RID of the P.O.S.!!! I was a long time Chevy fan bought an 07 colorado, nothing but TROUBLE.. Dealer did'nt give a D#N, G.M. cared even less. G.M. knows they have put this P.O.S. out there for us the unsuspecting public to purchase. After all these posts have they done ANYTHING?? NOoooo!!! They (G.M.) should have never gotten rid of the S-10 w/the 4.3 vortech. (GREAT little truck)But do yourself a favor,do like I did get the thing fixed good enough to get rid of it and buy another companies product. When G.M. starts loosing enough business then MAYBE they will learn! SO long as Obama and the boys don't bail them out again with our $ !!!
Randy Wise Chevrolet. Milan Mi. "The worst Dealer On The Planet!!!"
#441 of 684 Re: door locks and driver window [snaproll1]
May 23, 2011 (6:05 pm)
After giving 2 days worth of cussing, digging, reading cures and trying them, I finally grabbed some wire, unplugged the connection for the door motor and jumped it to roll the window up, THAT WORKED! I put the door back together, started it, put it in reverse,-----the damn locks LOCKED! I put it back in park and they UNLOCKED!! I tried the window, IT WORKED!! Something with the window being down? Don't know, but if it happens again (will have to change the battery some day, it's original and 7yrs old), I'll try the by-pass trick again second, I'll leave the window UP-FIRST. As for the Colorado being a P.O.S., except for this problem, which the dealer caused the first time, we have had nothing but good luck with the truck. I prefer my GM over a rice burner any day! May be just a little old fashion, but I've had GM since I started driving over 40 years ago (my 67 Chevelle 'SS' 396 was SWEEEEEEEEEEET)!!!
#442 of 684 Chevy Colorado Window and Lock Problems
May 24, 2011 (6:15 pm)
I have the same problem as everyone else, a 2004 Colorado, with power windows and door locks working intermittently. I replaced the switch module with no change in the problem. I checked the voltage as described in another post here. Disconnected the battery overnight. Often, when the door is open, everything works. After hearing about the chafing of the wires being a problem, I tried lifting up on the rubber tube where the wiring enters the door from the engine compartment. When I lift up, everything works. When I press down on the tube, nothing works. What's the best way to access all these wires going through the door into the engine compartment to see if they are chafed? Can I pull out the tube and the wires to be able to examine them?
#443 of 684 Re: door locks and driver window [gmcustsvc]
May 24, 2011 (7:42 pm)
Hello I was wondering i have a lot of troubles with my colorado she's a 2007 and I'm having a lot of wiring issues first it started with the brake being applied and then the signal lights would click and blink had it to the dealership they said they checked the wiring and found nothing after a while then my heater only worked on number 4 again took it back and they said a plug was bad so they changed it about a week later it went again took it back they said that the resister is burnt and would have to be replaced,they ordered it and before I took it to have it put on my son's foot hit the wiring under the dash and then the heater worked I checked out the plug and there seems to be nothing melted or burnt it's just a loose wire in the resister now when i get in I move it and my heater works fine,then I had to end up replacing the gas nozzle going to the tank for when I pumped gas it work start then stop and I had to keep squeezing the gas in slowly,Then the ABS fault light came on the said I had a bad sensor they replaced it and on my way home the road had slush on them and the light for the ABS came on I called the dealer he told me it was because the sensor got wet not to worry about it and it's still on,The other day I got into the truck and my tire pressure light came on and doesn't shut off and not sure why pressure is fine and tires are fine,next i went to town and when I shut off my truck the radio stopped working and I couldn't roll up my window and the dome light stayed on and before that the radio always stayed on for a bit and you could roll the windows up or down before you actually opened the door on the truck...Now when I put the truck into drive the doors no longer lock and it's telling me there is a door opened I got out and slammed the doors and it's still telling me the same thing...the dome light stays on for 10 to 15 minutes after you start the truck....And she keeps blowing out low beam headlights...Also when you put your foot on the brake the lights all go dim inside and out.. Also my friend has a canyon and he has had all the troubles I'm having and just uses his truck for yard work he got tired of taking it tto the dealer I'm so discussed with this please help.
#444 of 684 Re: Chevy Colorado Window and Lock Problems [ponderguy]
May 25, 2011 (1:46 am)
Pulling wires? bending cables? putting in patch cords? waiting for an full moon while rubbing your lucky rabbits foot? don't know about the rest of you but my stripped down 07 colorado was around $17,999.99 new? I know the "decked out" versions are more, seems alot to spend to have to go thru all this B.S.!!
When 99.9% of these posts with almost all the same problems point to the??? anyone..?anyone..? Buhler..? Buhler..?? THE WIRING HARNESS!!!!!! BUT the good 'ol boys down at Govt. Motors just won't admit it!!!!
Randy Wise Chevrolet Milan mi. The Worst Dealer On The Planet!!!!!!