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Chevy Colorado and GMC Canyon Electrical Problems

671 messages,  Last post on May 09, 2013 at 1:10 PM

You are in the Chevrolet Colorado and GMC Canyon Forum.

What is this discussion about? Chevrolet Colorado, GMC Canyon, Electrical, Truck

Messages Page 42 of 68

#409 of 671 Re: Chevy Colorado (2004) electrical (door-window) [snaproll1] by richard5151

Mar 15, 2011 (2:04 pm)

Replying to: snaproll1 (Mar 15, 2011 1:33 pm)
Hello snaproll1,
 
Thanks for taking the time. I will try disconnecting the battery cables over night and see if that works. I'm at 69,000 and have an extended out to 75,000 ($100 deductable) so I will probably just bring it in if the deep discharge doesn't fix it.
 
This 2004 (first year) truck has had serious electrical from day one. Every sopeaker has now been replaced (buzzing sounds), two BCM modules for the "other" horn relay (after horns did't work) twice! etc etc. I really like the Chevy trucks (switched from a Ford Ranger) but this one has been problematic since day one -- forced me to buy the extended warranty at 33,000 so I didn't have to pay. It was well worth it. Now I'm wonder whatt to do at 75,001 miles!!!
 
Thanks agin for your time today.

#410 of 671 Re: door locks and driver window [richard5151] by kcram HOST

Mar 15, 2011 (6:51 pm)

PLEASE do not put your phone number in a post... ever. We have no control who on the internet will record it or what they will do with it.
 
kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host

#411 of 671 Re: Colorado Electrical Problems [paul139] by monkeywrench5

Mar 17, 2011 (6:06 pm)

Replying to: paul139 (Jul 31, 2009 7:34 am)
Thanks for the info that worked great!

#412 of 671 Re: door locks and driver window [burnthecanyon] by gmcustsvc

Mar 24, 2011 (12:38 pm)

Replying to: burnthecanyon (Mar 12, 2011 9:25 am)
burnthecanyon,
Have you spoke with your dealer?
Christina
GM Customer Service

#413 of 671 Re: door locks and driver window [gmcustsvc] by burnthecanyon

Mar 24, 2011 (1:06 pm)

Replying to: gmcustsvc (Mar 24, 2011 12:38 pm)
I was dealing with a GM dealer two years ago with all the initial problems and jointly the truck had about $8,000 put in labour and parts. They said the whole time GM was following the truck and trying to help find the solution. Especially after I found this website and they started reading the posts too. But then they wanted to swap out more parts for another couple thousand bucks and I was at my breaking point so I emailed GM myself and started asking questions and they knew nothing of any issues with any canyon in mb. I changed dealerships who swapped out the alarm (that was required for insurance) at no cost to me (covered by CAA) and everything had been fine till Christmas. My original dealer refused to get the alarm checked. I now live in Fort McMurray and haven't been overly impressed with the dealer here. Basically I am waiting for it to quit completely and maybe I will be in the mood for a new hassle. Maybe it will easier to fix if it doesn't work at all.

#414 of 671 Re: door locks and driver window [burnthecanyon] by snaproll1

Mar 24, 2011 (7:04 pm)

Replying to: burnthecanyon (Mar 24, 2011 1:06 pm)
Just a bit of an update on the Colorado. Since getting the window module replaced I haven't had any electrical issues. It's been a couple of months now.
 
As a sideline, I did notice the truck was idling rough and throwing a P506 code, "low idle". I got it in and the throddle body was carboned up and needed to be cleaned. That took care of the problem. I also had the plugs changed and it's running great. A couple other things on the "watch list", the rear shocks are leaking a little and the serpentine belt is still in good shape but starting to squeal a little. Other than that, I've had the brake and radiator fluid flushed back in January. The trans and transfer I did around 70K. I had the head job around then too. It needed U-joints once. Right now the truck has 136K and except for the weird electrical problems, it's still doing well.
 
This isn't a bad little truck from a usage standpoint. I'd drive it until it dies if it only needed routine maintenance, but it is just downright creepy not knowing when one of these little electrical surprises that cost a grand are going to crop up. There just doesn't appear to be any rhyme or reason. After following the 400+ posts here it's evident Chevy doesn't have a clue either, or a consistant and final fix. Perhaps it's just a weird combination of things or perhaps many sources like bad grounds, poor wiring harnesses etc. It would certainly be welcome to get some definitive answer from GM.

#415 of 671 Re: door locks and driver window [snaproll1] by gmcustsvc

Mar 25, 2011 (6:51 am)

Replying to: snaproll1 (Mar 24, 2011 7:04 pm)
Glad to hear things went well at the dealership. If you have any other concerns please feel free to email us directly.
 
Thank you,
Caron, GM Customer Service

#416 of 671 Re: door locks and driver window [gmcustsvc] by snaproll1

Mar 25, 2011 (7:34 am)

Replying to: gmcustsvc (Mar 25, 2011 6:51 am)
"Glad to hear things went well at the dealership. If you have any other concerns please feel free to email us directly."
 
This is a joke, right? I didn't go to a dealership, I said I went to a COMPETENT mechanic. It probably helps to read a post completely.
 
And yes, I do have "other concerns". I mentioned it before, if you really are concerned with helping people stuck with these Colorado electrical problems, why don't you get someone from GM that may actually know something to post a solution here? I will assume if you can't do this, it is a pretty good indicator that after 6 years GM still doesn't have a clue as to what the problems actually is and that the dealerships are still basically shooting in the dark replacing expensive components and hoping the problem goes way along with the customer (after they pay their bill of course).
 
How about it? Get someone to post a solution to the problem rather than tring to drum up more business for the dealerships. Are you on commission or something?

#417 of 671 Re: door locks and driver window [snaproll1] by gmcustsvc

Mar 25, 2011 (8:46 am)

Replying to: snaproll1 (Mar 25, 2011 7:34 am)
If you have any other concerns I would suggest visiting a GM dealership. If you would like to do so, I would be happy to set up a case with GM Customer Assistance and they will work with you, the dealership and technical assistance to try and resolve your issues. In order to set up the case, I would need your full name, address, contact number, VIN and current mileage sent to me in an email. Or you can call Customer Assistance at 800-222-1020 hours of operation are Mon to Sat, 8am to 9pm ET.
 
Thank you,
Caron, GM Customer Service

#418 of 671 Isuzu I-280 door/window/keyfob problem by stingman

Mar 28, 2011 (6:34 pm)

I had the same problem with my 2006 Isuzu I-280 extended cab 4-cyl engine. If you don't know already, this is a Chevy Colorado/GMC Canyon with a different grille. A couple of months ago my driver side window, door locks and keyfob remote stopped working. I went on line to this forum and was amazed at the number of GM made trucks with the same problem as mine. After reading a few hundred complaints, I came to realize that this issue shows up many times after a dead or weak battery problem. My 2006 I-280 has only 9K miles on it as I use it only for truck duties on weekends; especially as it gets only 12 to 14 miles to a gallon, but that is a different story.
The short drives to the transfer station on Saturdays with a few stops for groceries or coal for my stove, were probably not enough to keep the battery fully charged.
The first indication that something was wrong, came one Saturday morning in December. When I got into the truck and started the engine, I noticed the clock read 12:00. I thought this odd as the clock always read accurately before. It was when I cleared my throat and tried to put the window down that I discovered the next problem, then the door locks and key fob.
I put up with the problem for three months until last Saturday when everything started working again. It was also the first day above 50 degrees in months here in NH.
Earlier, sometime in January, I bought a C-TEK battery tender and let it bring the battery up to full charge and keep it there; hoping that a fully charged battery would solve the problem. It did not.
I was about to try a few of the tricks that worked for others; bad grounds, intermittant connections, etc., but, as I said, I did nothing, but everything started working again.
There are no electrical modules that heal themselves, so the problem has to be either intermittant connections at the BCM interface, drivers door harness connections or grounding issues that may be affected by expansion and contractions due to temperature extremes. I wonder how many perfectly good switches and BCM's were replaced at great expense when the real problem is at the connectors or grounds.
I expect my problem is not yet permanantly solved and hope to trade it in on a Toyota shortly.

Messages Page 42 of 68

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