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Pickups Chevrolet Colorado and GMC Canyon Chevy Colorado and GMC Canyon Electrical Problems
250 messages, Last post on Dec 05, 2009 at 9:32 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Colorado and GMC Canyon Forum. Your Host is kcram
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Replying to: gmrozowski (Aug 17, 2007 7:07 am) kcram - Pickups Host |
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Replying to: jtenpas (Mar 10, 2007 12:19 pm) My truck just developed the same problems. I rode 30 miles, turned it off to get directions, started it back up, pulled into a driveway, visited for a couple hours and then the truck wouldn't start, just solenoid clicking. The driver's window wouldn't work and on the dash it said "ABS Fault". I didn't have time to mess around so I got a jump and it started right up but the driver's side window, door locks and fob still wouldn't work. I drove home just fine and the next day the truck started just fine and the window worked. I drove to an auto store figuring the battery was bad. I had it completely discharge last week forgetting a cooler I had running off the cigarette lighter. I figured the rapid charging might have cashed in the battery. (If you haven't discovered it yet, the battery is a "new design' and only available from the dealer of course). So I didn't get the battery but got jumper cables and took a deep cycle I had laying around for insurance if it happened again. The rest of the day, no issues. I thought everything was just fine. That was yesterday. This morning, same cr#p. Truck battery was down, solenoid clicking. It jumped right away but the window, fob and locks were out again. I hit internet and found your post. I took the panel with the buttons out, it's two screws in the grip, tilt forward and lift out. There are three wiring bundles that go into the window, lock and mirror unit. They have a little lock tab, press and gently pull out. Just to see the rest of it, I took the unit out of the panel, that's three screws. The unit has a white back held by one screw and plastic locking pressure clips on the side. I opened the unit and there is just a circuit board. I wanted to check inside for water damage I figured might have trickled in when the window was open. The board looked good. I put everything back together but sprayed the wiring bundle and socket with contact cleaner. (Of the three plugs, two are the same size so mark them to get them in the right place. I didn't do this but it was evident because of the wiring lengths). I snapped the plugs back and and the door locks and window came back to life. I'm not sure if the weak battery is related or not. I also took apart the back door window switch panels and the one on the passenger side, but I think it was the driver's side that was causing the problems as that is the only one I used the contact cleaner on. What a weird problem. Other than that, I have 62K miles on my '05 extended cab. Initially I had a bur rubbing on the brake drum that made a horrible grinding noise. They took care of that in the first few days. After that not a stich of problems for the first year then the blower motor went out on the heater/AC. That was $200 bucks but I found out it's easily replaced by the owner, it's on the front firewall. Just this summer I noticed that the front tires were wearing badly and I had them aligned and rotated. They were off on all three things, camber, toe and castor or whatever. Because of the wear in only 2 years I think they must not have been well aligned at the factory. Oh, also the headlights were also set too high and everybody hit me with their brights. Shortly after I got it, maybe 6 months the steering started to make a kind of 'clunking' sound around corners, haven't figured out what that is. There is also a 'lifter tick' it's had since day one. Generally it has been a good vehicle but it's starting to rattle and feel like my old Explorer did at 120K miles. Again, thanks for the info on the weird electrical problem. Like I say it saved me a trip to the dealer, probably a new battery I don't need and a lot of screwing around on my own checking fuses and troubleshooting it myself.
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Replying to: snaproll1 (Aug 19, 2007 3:19 pm) I called the dealer, sounds like they never heard of this problem. The guy I did talk to says the ABS fault is problably because of the battery being low. So something is draining the battery along with the other problem. I'm guessing it must have to be in the driver's door unit. There is a small ciruit board and possibly a weak component like a resistor or something. I'm guessing this because I had the problem, took the unit apart like I say above and the problem was fixed. Nothing else was done to the truck other than messing with this door unit. Perhaps the problem is somewhere else and disconnecting this unit resets something somewhere else, but at least it appears narrowed down. I've scheduled an appointment at the dealer in a few days but the window is open right now, so I'm going to mess with it and see if I can get it to work. I'll report the findings if I'm successful again tonight.
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Replying to: snaproll1 (Aug 21, 2007 8:51 am) Based on this, reading an earlier post where the dealer told the guy that "the circuit has to cool from raising both windows at the same time" or whatever is complete cr#p. The conditions were dry the first time it happened, the truck had just been driven 30 miles, shut off, restarted again, parked for a couple hours and the problem came out of the blue. A jump started the truck, it was driven home, parked overnight, the problem healed itself. Fine all day. Next morning dead. As soon as I disassembled the module and sprayed the contacts with cleaner it worked again. Fine for the rest of the day. Next morning dead again. Drove it broke all day, it didn't heal itself. Got home, cleaned the contacts again and the problem is fixed. So the first time it fixed itself, the next two it was broken until I messed with the window/lock/mirror module, cleaned the contacts and it worked right away. It's hard to believe it could be related to anything else like the instrument cluster. I still have the dealer appointment for this Friday so I'll keep posting if the thing dies again or if the dealer has any fixes. In the mean time I'm going to have to drive around with a screwdriver, can of contact cleaner and a spare battery and jumper cables 
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Replying to: snaproll1 (Aug 21, 2007 8:51 am)
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Replying to: mikeof48 (Aug 21, 2007 5:37 pm) Having taken it apart I can't see how wiring is getting pinched in the door. I wiggled the wires and connectors, no effect. It was only when I unhooked the harnesses and sprayed contact cleaner on them that it worked. The dealer I'm going to are pretty square shooters so I'm going to trust them... this time. If the problem happens again in the next few days I will raise holly hell for sure.
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Replying to: snaproll1 (Aug 24, 2007 9:13 am)
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Replying to: snaproll1 (Aug 27, 2007 6:30 am) I am so absolutely not a happy camper. Naturally it's the holiday weekend so I can't choke the dealer, who by the way is GUSTMAN CHEVY in Kaukauna Wisconsin.
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Replying to: snaproll1 (Sep 02, 2007 1:15 pm) They assure me beyond a reasonable doubt that messing with the door module has nothing to do with the problem. That disconnecting the module only resets something in the BCM fixing the problem but not curing it. Ok, that is possible. So what about the $400 BCM they replaced? Oh it needed to be replaced they tell me. A code came back that said it was bad and had probably gotten trashed from a short in the fuse block they also replaced. Ummmm, ok. Well there was nothing that didn't work on the truck if the BCM was "bad" before. Oh, but it controls so many systems that there are ones I probably haven't used like the airbag. So in other words it would be the equivelent of taking the truck in for the window issue and having them determine that the fix would be to replace the worn tires. Then when the window still doesn't work having them say, "Yeah, but you needed the new tires anyway to be safe". Wrong. I would still 'take my chances' with the old BCM that worked rather than spending $400 bucks on a new one to 'be sure'. I authorized it to be replaced because they assured me it was the problem. It wasn't the problem. So we're going to have to 'talk' about that one. Now they are going to have somebody troubleshoot the relays and such in the truck. They're figuring that the BCM is not shutting off with the truck and running the battery down. That would mean that the BCM problem has to have the ability to drain the battery in a matter of an hour. My guess is they will replace some other part and want to charge me for it as the 'real solution' to the problem and still stick me with the bill for the BCM because it was 'bad anyway'. Again, that would be like putting on new tires, finding it doesn't solve the problem but saying, "You needed the tires anyway". I don't think so. I'll post what I find out. Oh yeah, one other thing. They scoff at internet, "You can read anything about any part on a car being bad and all of it is BS". Huh? Funny. According to them they have never encountered this door lock, fob, driver's window problem before. Their 'database' has no reference to it. So I guess all the other posts here about the problem "must not have happened". I guess all you other people are imagining the problem too. I did call the 800 Chevy number that somebody suggested earlier and opened a case. Those people are all trained very well. "We sympathize and understand" about 20 times in a 10 minute conversation. Then offer the, "And we'll give you something free" just to pacify you enough to not think the unthinkable of not buying another Chevy. Well??? All I want is my fricking truck fixed for a reasonable price or I'm going to trade it and never buy another Chevy product again. |
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Replying to: snaproll1 (Sep 02, 2007 1:15 pm) |
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