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Chevy Colorado and GMC Canyon Electrical Problems

249 messages,  Last post on Nov 24, 2009 at 4:21 AM

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What is this discussion about? Chevrolet Colorado, GMC Canyon, Electrical, Truck

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#237 of 249 Re: Single Mom..2008 Colorado..maintanence??? [mommy6] by dmathews3 Oct 06, 2009 (9:19 am)
Replying to: mommy6 (Oct 06, 2009 9:03 am) You could have sat down and read and reread the owners manual so you wouldn't have to ask this question as you would know what is needed to be done. Also waiting till the oil light comes on in most peoples opinion is waiting till the oil has outlived it usefulness. And hopefully the oil light you are talking about is one that means it is time/past time to change the oil and not the one that comes on when the oil gets to low. If that is the case you are on borrowed time and have been asking for trouble. SO GET OUT THE BOOKS AND READ THEM, then find a trustworthy Chevy dealer had have them go through it and give you an estimate to bring it back to 100%
#238 of 249 Horn beeps 3 times when unlocking using keyless remote by roger9999 Oct 12, 2009 (12:20 pm)
I just changed my battery on my 2005 GMC Canyon. Everything works perfectly except when I unlock the truck using the keyless remote, the horn beeps three times. It never did this before. Has anyone else experienced this problem? I tried disconnecting the battery and let it sit for 30 minutes. I tried removing the fuses for the power lock and horn. Nothing seems to work.
#239 of 249 Blinker by jsouth Oct 12, 2009 (3:31 pm)
My blinker on the drivers side will not work. I replaced the bulb and checked the fuse for both sides, can someone help with this?
#240 of 249 Dash goig haywire by farmer90 Oct 16, 2009 (5:24 pm)
My daughter has an '04 Colorado. She says the dash lights and radio goes haywire and sometimes goes blank. When this happens I will disconnect the positive battery terminal and this seems to clear the problem for awhile. Just replaced the battery and it was about to explode from being swollen. It was also very hot to touch. Parts house had never seen a battery in this kind of shape. What could be causing this problem and could it be related to the battery problem? Replies to this message: dmathews3 (Oct 17, 2009 4:52 am) Alennx (Oct 17, 2009 10:03 am)
#241 of 249 Re: Dash goig haywire [farmer90] by dmathews3 Oct 17, 2009 (4:52 am)
Replying to: farmer90 (Oct 16, 2009 5:24 pm) I suppose it could be. Being 5 and almost 6 years old I'd go through and clean all the ground terminals on the truck as I think that has been a problem with Colorado along with the wire harness for the door windows/locks etc.
#242 of 249 Re: Dash goig haywire [farmer90] by Alennx Oct 17, 2009 (10:03 am)
Replying to: farmer90 (Oct 16, 2009 5:24 pm) I had a battery taken out of my truck with a special battery grip because it was too hot to touch. I had the engine light on and off, the tadio lost half it's button lights, etc. This was the third battery in two years and started a long search for the cause. I then bought a Yellow Optima battery, which is a gel-type battery and have not had a problem with the battery since.   Things to consider:   1. Is the vehicle spending more than 5% of the time driving on unpaved roads? This can slosh a 'wet battery' around and mess it up. Standard car batteries are designed for flat surfaces, slow corners, easy driving. Is the vehicle being stored in freezing conditions? This is also an issue for standard batteries.   2. Is the vehicle charging the battery adequately? You can test this easily by turning the engine on and putting a $10 Tester on Vdc across the terminals of the battery. You should be seeing 13.8V or higher at idle, which will rise to 14.3V or more at 1500rpm.   3. Run the vehicle around for 10 miles and then turn it off. Check the Vdc across the battery again and, if it's below 12V, The battery is acting a resistor and will be getting hot as the alternator attempts to force charge into it. Buy a 'Gel battery' or even a 'Dry battery', they cost a little more but they are plenty powerful and handle adverse conditions much better.   Make sure the idle speed is about 650 for the i5 engine. if not, the first thing to do is get a $3 can of "Gumout" Throttle Body cleaner (do not use anything else), remove the ari hose between the filter box and the vacuum box, you should be able to look through the vacuum box and see the throttle plate. Spray it liberally all over for a count of three, turn the engine over (you may have to replace the air hose because of the MAF sensor) then spray it again. Refit the hose. Fire it up and you should see a noticeably improvement at idle and under acceleration. This has a direct effect on the charging system as the alternator output at idle may be too low at 500rpm.   Good luck!
#243 of 249 Re: door lock problem a little different [tyrod_emmons] by mikeyr Oct 17, 2009 (1:32 pm)
Replying to: tyrod_emmons (Aug 29, 2009 7:43 pm) Tyrod, Have you solved this problem? I am having the same issue. Looking at wiring schematics, there is a gray wire that is spliced off the gray drivers door wire, and it splits off to the remaining 3 locks. I'm wondering if there is something wrong with this connection. Otherwise it is probably the BCM and replacing doesn't appear to be cheap, and I have no clue if it needs to be reprogrammed or not, because replacing it would be easy enough. I could be out to lunch, I can't say I've done much with the wiring of a truck!
#244 of 249 Re: battery light [mike_1017] by steve819 Oct 19, 2009 (8:55 am)
Replying to: mike_1017 (Sep 01, 2008 12:15 am) RU saying that the fuse was bad even though it was good? Here's my problem and it has been noted before. I have a ground somewhere on the positive side of my electrical system. It drains the battery in about 2 days. It blows no fuses and melts no wires. Here was my analysis attempt. I charged the battery and pulled the red lead off. I put a meter in line between the positive post and the red lead and sure enough it reads voltage (it shouldn't of course but that indicates a ground.) I then pulled the cover off the fuse box. I pulled every fuse and relay, one at a time. The voltage on the meter never dropped. How the heck can that happen? Isn't every circuit fused? But now that you mentioned the 100 amp mega fuse at the entrance to the fuse box it makes me wonder. my mega fuse is good or at least it reads continuity.
#245 of 249 Re: BCM Body Control Module Replacement 2004 Ext Cab LS [mrwebman] by mikeyr Oct 19, 2009 (3:10 pm)
Replying to: mrwebman (Aug 27, 2009 5:05 am) Hey Webman,   Not sure if you got your part number, but I believe it is GM PART # 25779767. I don't believe you need to program it, but am not sure and would like to know that myself. I can send you a link to a form were a number of people have bought and replaced it.
#246 of 249 Re: Single Mom..2008 Colorado..maintanence??? [mommy6] by steve263 Oct 24, 2009 (8:43 am)
Replying to: mommy6 (Oct 06, 2009 9:03 am) Hello single mom dont listen to the guy with a chip on his shoulder with the last reply. The colorado does not come with a book its a dvd. But anyway just have all the fluids changed trany. Flush the radiator and you can but dont need to have the transfer case oil changed. The oil change should be every 3000 miles you also can go with the 5000 mile oil. If you are really bad about changing the oil use 50/50 half sinthedic oil. Its a better oil last longer and does not break down as fast. Go to a oil change place like jiffy lube and thy will put a sticker in the window so you will know when to change the oil again. Hope this helped. steve

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