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Chevy Colorado and GMC Canyon Electrical Problems

249 messages,  Last post on Nov 24, 2009 at 4:21 AM

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#233 of 249 check engine light problems by adec Aug 30, 2009 (5:48 am)
I have a 2006 gmc canyon 4x4 with 47k miles on it. I have had nothing but problems with it like at first the abs light would come on and the brakes would make a terrible grinding noise, so the dealership took it back and had to replace the hubs took them like three weeks. now i bought the car new shouldn't have these problems right away. So finally they fixed that and then my check engine light would come on almost every 1500 miles after my 30k mark. first it was a fuel cap then an evap problem in the vacuum nd both times they smoked it and found leaks. and now it has come on again and i have to take it back in. The whole ordeal has just discussed me and it is just nickle and dimming me two, three hundred at a time. does any one know what to do or has had these same problems. Or what i can say to a dealer to make it better. thanks.
#234 of 249 Re: door lock problem a little different [leadfoot4] by mrwebman Aug 30, 2009 (6:26 am)
Replying to: leadfoot4 (Aug 30, 2009 4:45 am) Hi tyrod_emmons,   Thanks for the tip but I've already removed the board in the door and replaced both relays. It didn't get better or worse - stayed the same. I have the schematic so I looked for the signal from BCM to the relay board in the door but the signal never gets to the board to tell the door to unlock. For instance, when you press the key fob unlock button, the lights flash and the door should unlock but that unlock signal never gets to the board in the door to tell it to unlock. When I press the switch in the door to unlock the doors it all works perfectly.   I'm missing other signals from the BCM too. My fog lamps don't work and I checked the relay under the hood and it is not getting the turn on signal from the BCM. My lights in the cab won't turn on when the doors open - again, missing signal from the BCM. Removing the key should unlock the doors - again BCM. The bed light won't work - missing signal from BCM. My radio looses time too, randomly. That one is hard to trace because it could be the BCM or the radio itself. It has done that since new but the dealer wouldn't fix it because they couldn't duplicate it.   As far as I can tell, the BCM and the A/C fan resistor assembly and harness are very weak points on this vehicle. My BCM was replaced once under warranty as was a lot of other things. It would be easy to say that I should have bought a foreign vehicle but I would have paid over $10K more for the same thing and I couldn't justify it. Even if I have to pay some out of pocket expenses, I've still not come close to paying the extra $10,000. Besides, it's really fun to drive and gets good gas mileage for a truck. By the way, why $10K? Because I used GM bucks and got lots of discounts that Toyota wouldn't even talk to me about.   Cheers.
#235 of 249 colorado window problem by jaybob3 Sep 27, 2009 (11:47 am)
2005 Colorado: passenger side window works some times, some times not. Doesn't matter if using driver side control of passenger control. If window is pulled up or pushed down, it works for a while and then stops again. Took door panel off and lubed moving parts and window channels. No help. Anyone with same problem?
#236 of 249 Single Mom..2008 Colorado..maintanence??? by mommy6 Oct 06, 2009 (9:03 am)
I have a 2008 Chevy Colorado. What kind f maintenance should be preformed by 54,000 miles other than oil change?? I am a single mom of 3 & I have no clue! I have not done any kind of maintenance other that Oil Changes (when the light comes on). Now...I know my vehicle & it just doesnt seem ok. The gears are not catching on right! WHAT SHOULD I DO! HELP! Remember..iTS NEVER HAD NOTHING REPLACED OTHER THAN OIL!! Thank You SOOO much! Replies to this message: dmathews3 (Oct 06, 2009 9:19 am) steve263 (Oct 24, 2009 8:43 am)
#237 of 249 Re: Single Mom..2008 Colorado..maintanence??? [mommy6] by dmathews3 Oct 06, 2009 (9:19 am)
Replying to: mommy6 (Oct 06, 2009 9:03 am) You could have sat down and read and reread the owners manual so you wouldn't have to ask this question as you would know what is needed to be done. Also waiting till the oil light comes on in most peoples opinion is waiting till the oil has outlived it usefulness. And hopefully the oil light you are talking about is one that means it is time/past time to change the oil and not the one that comes on when the oil gets to low. If that is the case you are on borrowed time and have been asking for trouble. SO GET OUT THE BOOKS AND READ THEM, then find a trustworthy Chevy dealer had have them go through it and give you an estimate to bring it back to 100%
#238 of 249 Horn beeps 3 times when unlocking using keyless remote by roger9999 Oct 12, 2009 (12:20 pm)
I just changed my battery on my 2005 GMC Canyon. Everything works perfectly except when I unlock the truck using the keyless remote, the horn beeps three times. It never did this before. Has anyone else experienced this problem? I tried disconnecting the battery and let it sit for 30 minutes. I tried removing the fuses for the power lock and horn. Nothing seems to work.
#239 of 249 Blinker by jsouth Oct 12, 2009 (3:31 pm)
My blinker on the drivers side will not work. I replaced the bulb and checked the fuse for both sides, can someone help with this?
#240 of 249 Dash goig haywire by farmer90 Oct 16, 2009 (5:24 pm)
My daughter has an '04 Colorado. She says the dash lights and radio goes haywire and sometimes goes blank. When this happens I will disconnect the positive battery terminal and this seems to clear the problem for awhile. Just replaced the battery and it was about to explode from being swollen. It was also very hot to touch. Parts house had never seen a battery in this kind of shape. What could be causing this problem and could it be related to the battery problem? Replies to this message: dmathews3 (Oct 17, 2009 4:52 am) Alennx (Oct 17, 2009 10:03 am)
#241 of 249 Re: Dash goig haywire [farmer90] by dmathews3 Oct 17, 2009 (4:52 am)
Replying to: farmer90 (Oct 16, 2009 5:24 pm) I suppose it could be. Being 5 and almost 6 years old I'd go through and clean all the ground terminals on the truck as I think that has been a problem with Colorado along with the wire harness for the door windows/locks etc.
#242 of 249 Re: Dash goig haywire [farmer90] by Alennx Oct 17, 2009 (10:03 am)
Replying to: farmer90 (Oct 16, 2009 5:24 pm) I had a battery taken out of my truck with a special battery grip because it was too hot to touch. I had the engine light on and off, the tadio lost half it's button lights, etc. This was the third battery in two years and started a long search for the cause. I then bought a Yellow Optima battery, which is a gel-type battery and have not had a problem with the battery since.   Things to consider:   1. Is the vehicle spending more than 5% of the time driving on unpaved roads? This can slosh a 'wet battery' around and mess it up. Standard car batteries are designed for flat surfaces, slow corners, easy driving. Is the vehicle being stored in freezing conditions? This is also an issue for standard batteries.   2. Is the vehicle charging the battery adequately? You can test this easily by turning the engine on and putting a $10 Tester on Vdc across the terminals of the battery. You should be seeing 13.8V or higher at idle, which will rise to 14.3V or more at 1500rpm.   3. Run the vehicle around for 10 miles and then turn it off. Check the Vdc across the battery again and, if it's below 12V, The battery is acting a resistor and will be getting hot as the alternator attempts to force charge into it. Buy a 'Gel battery' or even a 'Dry battery', they cost a little more but they are plenty powerful and handle adverse conditions much better.   Make sure the idle speed is about 650 for the i5 engine. if not, the first thing to do is get a $3 can of "Gumout" Throttle Body cleaner (do not use anything else), remove the ari hose between the filter box and the vacuum box, you should be able to look through the vacuum box and see the throttle plate. Spray it liberally all over for a count of three, turn the engine over (you may have to replace the air hose because of the MAF sensor) then spray it again. Refit the hose. Fire it up and you should see a noticeably improvement at idle and under acceleration. This has a direct effect on the charging system as the alternator output at idle may be too low at 500rpm.   Good luck!

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