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Chevy Colorado and GMC Canyon Electrical Problems

249 messages,  Last post on Nov 24, 2009 at 4:21 AM

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#221 of 249 4th BCM by grnbeltwarrior Jun 22, 2009 (7:44 am)
Just found this after having issues with my 04 Colorado for a number of years.   First incident was this: after shopping came out to my trucks wipers going and when I unlocked the door, the blower was on inside. This while the keys were in my pocket. Dealer replaced the BCM. Under warranty.   Fine for 30,000 miles.   Next problem: Go out to the truck, nothing works. Try to start, only thing that came on was the service engine icon on the instrument cluster. Nothing else. Dealer replaced the BCM again. $700 bucks gone.   3 weeks later, Driving the truck, filled up gas. Blower on while the keys in my pocket. While driving the truck to the dealer, the wipers turn on then stop mid way, the horn honks twice, the instrument cluster goes completely black then displays the odometer reading as 999999. Blower does not work, locks work, but when you shift out of park or drive it used to lock and unlock the doors, it does not do that anymore. Replaced the BCM again. They are going to replace the instrument cluster once they get it in. So far the dealers techs are dumbfounded on how this is going.   Any other ideas?   I am going to ask them to look at the fuse block. Just seems to be a lot of electrical issues with this thing.
#222 of 249 Colorado Electrical Problems by paul139 Jul 31, 2009 (6:34 am)
OK, so I bought a loaded 2004 4x4 crew cab colorado z-71 for my daughter, past owner told me had just put in a new battery, after one month all of the problems listed in this post with the exception of the blower began happening to her truck. So, I began to disconnect and reconnect every harness connector to try and trouble shoot this issue. FINALLY, last night as the no start no power no dash passlock battery good condition occurred once again my neighbor watched the dash while I wiggled wires yet again. and fixed it!!!!!!!!. From the battery trace the small ground wire to the inner fender, remove the bolt, remove the small retainer that holds the eye on the bolt. remove the eye connector, place a "star" washer on the bolt, reinstall the eye, place another star washer on the bolt and reinstall. Problem is resolved. no issues, door locks, lights, dash, pass lock all ok now
#223 of 249 Check Engine Light by jsouth Aug 03, 2009 (3:03 pm)
I have a 2004 Ext. cab 4 wheel drive I5 Chevy truck and the problem I have is my check engine light has come on and will not go off even when you take the key out of the ign. The Chevrolet dealer checked for a code but there is none. HELP!!!
#224 of 249 Your 2004 Chevy Colorado is a Transformer by Alennx Aug 03, 2009 (3:32 pm)
The 2004 Chevy Colorado is actually "Decepticon" technology, designed to create confusion and distraction amongst the human population, meanwhile, The Fallen wage their endless war against the "Autobots."   Seems as likely an explanation as any you'll get from the Dealership.
#225 of 249 BCM Body Control Module Replacement 2004 Ext Cab LS by mrwebman Aug 03, 2009 (4:40 pm)
Has anyone replaced their own Body Control Module in this truck?   Mine went out once under warranty and now it has apparently gone out again. Several things that it controls no longer work like fog lights, door lights, door lock from remote only, cargo light, etc. Got the schematic and traced it back to the BCM... ouch. No warranty this time so I'd like to do it myself.   It's easy to get to - 5 minute job as far as physically doing it but I don't know if there is any programming needed and I don't know where to get it or what the part number would be. I couldn't find it on rockauto or the gm parts site. My truck is the LS with power door locks and windows, etc. and I only seen the one without all of the power options... The one listed on amazon.com is about $138 but I don't know the correct part number for mine so I'm not sure it will work.   Any advice out there?   Thanks, Dennis Replies to this message: paul139 (Aug 15, 2009 4:20 am) mrwebman (Aug 27, 2009 5:05 am) mikeyr (Oct 19, 2009 3:10 pm)
#226 of 249 Re: BCM Body Control Module Replacement 2004 Ext Cab LS [mrwebman] by paul139 Aug 15, 2009 (4:20 am)
Replying to: mrwebman (Aug 03, 2009 4:40 pm) yes read #222 ithink from me paul139, its cheap (less than a dollar) takes 10 minutes and I will bet takes care of the issue. A bad connection on the ground from the battery to the body causes all sorts of issues. In most cases now when you select a function the push button sends a signal to the bcm and the bcm fires the function A bad body ground messes with everything including false codes and BCM faults. Good luck Replies to this message: mrwebman (Aug 27, 2009 5:05 am) mikeyr (Oct 19, 2009 3:10 pm)
#227 of 249 Colorado driver side electrical issues by kirk11 Aug 27, 2009 (4:42 am)
I am new to this forum but since I have been reading the posts I have hope for my 2004 3.5L ext cab 4x4 pickup. I had electrical issues with radio not shutting off when the drivers door is open. The door lock chime does not work when the lock button is pushed and door is open. I took the vehicle in to the deal who claims the problem was in the drivers door wire harness and it was fixed. I presently have an Air bag light on all the time so I took the back door drivers side apart last night to trace out the wires. The black tape job that was around the wires was loose, I found one expose wire inside the door (I taped it). Where the wire harness boot meets the door frame was a mess. at the connector in the bulkhead there where chaffed wires and the connector looked stressed. I taped that all up and guess what I now have my original electrical problems (radio will not shut off when door is open, and door lock chime does not work), I think that the may be a cold solder joint ( work done by the dealer) and/or the connector at the door bulkhead has issues. The airbag light is still on, it is another problem!
#228 of 249 Re: BCM Body Control Module Replacement 2004 Ext Cab LS [paul139] by mrwebman Aug 27, 2009 (5:05 am)
Replying to: paul139 (Aug 15, 2009 4:20 am) Hi,   Thanks for the tip but it didn't work in my case but I can see where it would be important to do. As in your case, there was paint under the ground terminal. Of course, paint is an insulator and you really don't want a ground to insulated.   Anyhow, because I have so many things that are not working I highly suspect the BCM. I stopped in at the local Chevrolet dealer yesterday and asked them what the cost would be and their answer was $265 plus tax plus installation labor plus programming fees plus shop towels plus EPA fluids fees plus etc, etc, etc. Might be able to get out the door at about $1000.   I was there at the dealer to have the front end aligned and tires rotated and they said I was number 3 inline and that I would have to leave their building because I wasn't allowed to hang around in their waiting room but one hour max. Must be a new government regulation now that GM is owned by US. If I was made of money I would have set the car on fire right there in their lot - I was so mad. I bite my tongue because they said they'd have their courtesy car take me back to work. Guess what - after an hour and a half I had to call someone from work to come and get me because their courtesy person never showed up. I'm expecting the call from the FBI right now about being in their waiting room over an hour.   IS THIS THE REASON WHY MOST PEOPLE BUY FOREIGN?????   Sorry... I still need an answer to my original question if anyone knows... what is the correct part number for my BCM and where can I get it programmed?   Thanks. Replies to this message: mikeyr (Oct 19, 2009 3:10 pm)
#229 of 249 Chevy Colorado electrical problems by kirk11 Aug 27, 2009 (10:31 am)
I was able to take off work early today and got home to work on my colorado. This is a followup on #227 by the way. I suspected a bad solder joint at the drivers rear door electrical bulkhead (where the rubber thingy meets the rear door frame bulkhead) moved the rubber back to expose the four wire connector. Because I had taped it throughly the pressure broke the cold and corroding solder joint. So I made a new splice cleaned the wires, slipped on a piece of heat shrink, flux and soldered. I now have my radio off when the door opens and when the key is in the ignition and the door is open the chime activates. Hurray for small miracles that saved me a trip to the dealer.   I still have an Air Bag light on after startup.   Later
#230 of 249 Re: Battery upgrade info [russ95] by leadfoot4 Aug 29, 2009 (3:46 am)
Replying to: russ95 (Jun 07, 2009 2:07 pm) After reading "russ 95"s mention of the upgraded alternator, I looked into that for my 2005 Canyon 4x4, as it's primarily driven in winter, at slow speeds with lights and heater blower all running at the same time.   I did an internet search, and found a Delphi alternator supplier on the west coast that provided me with a new 125A delphi alternator for $150. This included a smaller OD drive pulley, which will speed up the RPM of the alternator, and boost output at slower speeds, which I see a lot of, when the roads are snowy and slippery.   I did the swap-out last weekend, and it was by no means a picnic. I have the 5 cyl. engine, and everything is "shoehorned" into place, there's VERY little room to work. I purchased a Haynes repair manual, which said to remove the lower inner fender panel for fastener access, and the engine lift bracket, to allow the alternator to come out. HAH!!!!!   I wound up disconnecting the fuel supply/return lines, removing the battery and battery box, as well as loosening and slightly lifting the main fuse box in the LH fender well. Then it was a series of twists and contortions, before I was able to remove the unit. However, it allowed me to see all of the corrosion that had developed on the electrical connections over 4 years of driving in a damp, winter environment. A little Scotch-Brite cleaned everything up, and some dielectric grease on the connections will hopefully keep me trucking!

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