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Chevy Colorado and GMC Canyon Electrical Problems

247 messages,  Last post on Nov 10, 2009 at 6:04 PM

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#213 of 247 The window/lock/battery issue update by snaproll1 Apr 11, 2009 (2:51 pm)
Replying to: hcoombs (Apr 11, 2009 11:56 am) I think I started this thread way back when or at least this is where I posted the window/lock/fob/starting/battery problem a year and a half ago.   I've been following the thread since then. I've seen posts to the effect that it's the door module on the driver's side and bad grounds, but I really don't think that is the issue. When I started having the problem, I found a few posts on the net with a bunch of silly stuff people were hearing from their dealers. Things like running both more than one window at the same time was "the" problem, yada, yada.   Basically a lot of folks were saying that their dealer had "never heard of the problem before", yet I found several posts of the exact same symptoms. I found if I removed the door module connector and plugged it back in, everything would be fine for a few days. My dealer said that was absolutely crazy, at best it was resetting something in my BCM that 'fixed' the problem temporarily. My dealer said, "Never saw this problem before, and whatever you read on those internet posts are garbage..." The said the BCM tested bad, that would fix the problem for sure... and the problem happened the next day, truck wouldn't start, wouldn't turn over, dead battery. So they took it back in, farted around with it again and said the two and a half year old battery was the problem and... "Oh by they way, there was a service bulletin on your fuse block, which yours was burned... and we replaced that for free!"   Uh-huh.   That was about two years ago and I haven't have a problem with it again. Here's what I assumed happened. There is some defect in the fuseblock that fried the BCM, battery and possibly the heater blower motor. The day after they got done 'testing' all the stuff the blower resistor fried as well, "just coinincidence" according to them, (fried the very NEXT day???). So I think this improperly designed fuse block shorts out and causes all kinds of electrical problems with the truck. Since I had it replaced, (and all stuff that mysteriously fried in the space of about a week), I haven't had a problem since.   Well, except for the head replacement because of the soft valve seats. Luckily they covered that with no issues and the truck has been running ok since. I have 99K miles on it and it's a 2005. One other weird thing, I don't tow much or often, but I've had the U-Joints in the drivetrain go bad. I replaced one set a year ago and they're sounding like their going again, a metalic 'clink' like a pipe rattling every now and then. I'm still getting about 20MPG with the truck, which is why I bought it, but I'll tell ya, this is the last time I "buy American" until these bailout buddies start building reliable vehicles or honestly start backing them once again.
#214 of 247 Re: Fan switch only works on 4... [brokenall] by gthfish Apr 24, 2009 (3:22 pm)
Replying to: brokenall (Jun 13, 2008 3:47 pm) Thanks brokenail for the information, really appreciate it..gary
#215 of 247 Rough Idle, Dead Batteries and Dead Blower settings... by Alennx Apr 24, 2009 (10:35 pm)
Replying to: Alennx (Mar 08, 2009 9:25 pm) SOLVED!   I rented a Trailblazer for a week while out of State, same kit setup with phone, radio and batteries charging from my inverter, this vehicle is pretty much the same as the Colorado but has a voltmeter in it showing 14V at idle in the rental place.   So I'm watching this thing and by day three, the engine is starting to idle up and down and the voltmeter is showing about 12V at idle, but no engine light yet... which means all my kit is drawing more wattage than the alternator is making at idle and the battery is now sweating the load... so I quit plugging in my laptop during idle and, 24 hours later, idle is normal.   I get home and back in my Colorado, which still has the engine light on and idles between 500 and 700 every two seconds all day. I plug everything but my laptop in and a couple of days later, the idle levels out at 700 and the light goes out! That was several days ago.   The engine light came back on briefly the other night when I was idling with my headlights on for two hours, but then went out on the way home.   My belt is squeeling when it gets wet. I think this means I need a new belt? Or it means the alternator is so fried it's creating too much friction...   Either way, if I want to power my laptop in my truck for more than ten minutes, I have to get a much bigger alternator installed. One that will output 100A+ at idle.   On another note, I pulled the resistor pack for the blower in the passenger footwell and, wouldn't you know it, the connector on the red wire is all burned and melted. I think there's a Technical Oops Sheet on that so I might find a Chevy dealer who will fix it. JFYI, with the resistor pack disconnected, the blower still works on 4 and the heater, inside/outside button and A/C all work fine.   My 2005 Colorado just turned 80K and now runs like a dream again.
#216 of 247 Misc. electrical gremlins resolved by russ95 Jun 01, 2009 (10:52 pm)
My 2004 Canyon (3.5L 5MT 2WD) has had a continuing series of small electrical problems since new. These have included no start, blower motor, blower resistor, blower loom (2X), & intermittent rough idle. The truck now has 111,000 miles and finally runs right. The fix was simple, just put a real battery in it. My OEM style group 86-7YR battery died at the bottom of a wilderness lake boat ramp. I had to remove the upper & lower portions of the battery box to fit an old deep cycle battery from my boat to get back out of the mountains.  I chose to eliminate the battery box & vent hose and select a larger & stronger battery more suited for truck use. I installed a Costco/Kirkland #4 battery which is rated 1,000CA & 850CCA. This battery also has a 36Mo/100Mo warrantee & only costs $80.00. The battery is snug but fits into the available space, cables, and the stock battery retainer system. The bottom line is that EVERYTHING works better especially the engine which has never run this sweet. I suspect the combination of a minimal battery and a low capacity alternator result in excessive voltage drop and thus high amperage draws everywhere. My next step will be an alternator upgrade. This is a cheap way to stop buying electric parts. I also expect to see an improvement mileage & may get to 30mpg yet! Russ
#217 of 247 Battery upgrade info by russ95 Jun 07, 2009 (2:07 pm)
Hi,  On the previous post (#216) I neglected to provide the actual battery identification. It is a 850CCA, GROUP65, Costco item #12866, $80.00, & also called a fitment #4. The width is a really tight fit in the stock retainers & I'm not sure that other brands of group 65 batteries will fit the same. Also late models of Canyon & Colorado both 4 & 5 Cyl have upgraded from 100A to 125A alternators which will probably be an easy & worthwhile conversion on the older trucks. Russ Replies to this message: leadfoot4 (Aug 29, 2009 3:46 am)
#218 of 247 Windows not responding by merch3 Jun 10, 2009 (5:08 pm)
I have a 2004 chevy colorado extended cab and lately my drivers side window has been acting funny, sometimes working just fine and sometimes it just stops for a bout 15 seconds, then will start working just fine again. the locks work, and the mirrors work.   and then yesterday i got in my truck, put both windows down, and drove about 5 miles. when i parked and tried to put the passenger side window up it didn't budge and so i waited hoping it was just the same problem as the drivers side window but nope... it wouldn't move. so i had someone pull up on it while i pressed the button and it went up just fine, then it worked fine for about 5 minutes then got stuck again. i don't know what is going on. but this morning it worked fine again for a couple seconds then just froze up again. i can hear it click on the passenger side door like it receiving the power its just not moving. ive been reading a lot of posts with people having electrical problems, i don't know if i should hope its electrical or the motors are going out. i don't know which is cheaper. any response is welcome. Replies to this message: HopeGMC (Jun 11, 2009 4:06 am)
#219 of 247 Re: Windows not responding [merch3] by HopeGMC Jun 11, 2009 (4:06 am)
Replying to: merch3 (Jun 10, 2009 5:08 pm) I had the same problem. Look at my entry #154. Hope that thelps.
#220 of 247 Re: Fan switch only works on 4... [cyre] by HopeGMC Jun 12, 2009 (11:26 am)
Replying to: cyre (Dec 30, 2007 8:26 am) Check the connection for the blower motor. Passanger side. Two screws. The problem is that the connectors heat up and loose their connections. If you can take the connector apart - one wire at a time and clean them up and put more tention on the prong, that should take care of it. I would try that before replacing the resistor board
#221 of 247 4th BCM by grnbeltwarrior Jun 22, 2009 (7:44 am)
Just found this after having issues with my 04 Colorado for a number of years.   First incident was this: after shopping came out to my trucks wipers going and when I unlocked the door, the blower was on inside. This while the keys were in my pocket. Dealer replaced the BCM. Under warranty.   Fine for 30,000 miles.   Next problem: Go out to the truck, nothing works. Try to start, only thing that came on was the service engine icon on the instrument cluster. Nothing else. Dealer replaced the BCM again. $700 bucks gone.   3 weeks later, Driving the truck, filled up gas. Blower on while the keys in my pocket. While driving the truck to the dealer, the wipers turn on then stop mid way, the horn honks twice, the instrument cluster goes completely black then displays the odometer reading as 999999. Blower does not work, locks work, but when you shift out of park or drive it used to lock and unlock the doors, it does not do that anymore. Replaced the BCM again. They are going to replace the instrument cluster once they get it in. So far the dealers techs are dumbfounded on how this is going.   Any other ideas?   I am going to ask them to look at the fuse block. Just seems to be a lot of electrical issues with this thing.
#222 of 247 Colorado Electrical Problems by paul139 Jul 31, 2009 (6:34 am)
OK, so I bought a loaded 2004 4x4 crew cab colorado z-71 for my daughter, past owner told me had just put in a new battery, after one month all of the problems listed in this post with the exception of the blower began happening to her truck. So, I began to disconnect and reconnect every harness connector to try and trouble shoot this issue. FINALLY, last night as the no start no power no dash passlock battery good condition occurred once again my neighbor watched the dash while I wiggled wires yet again. and fixed it!!!!!!!!. From the battery trace the small ground wire to the inner fender, remove the bolt, remove the small retainer that holds the eye on the bolt. remove the eye connector, place a "star" washer on the bolt, reinstall the eye, place another star washer on the bolt and reinstall. Problem is resolved. no issues, door locks, lights, dash, pass lock all ok now

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