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Chevy Colorado and GMC Canyon Electrical Problems

249 messages,  Last post on Nov 24, 2009 at 4:21 AM

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#207 of 249 Re: Door Lock Problem... [slr777] by slr777 Apr 11, 2009 (5:25 am)
Replying to: slr777 (Apr 11, 2009 5:23 am) sorry little out of context but this is a follow up to my Nov 25-08 posts
#208 of 249 Re: Door Lock Problem... [slr777] by flacondo Apr 11, 2009 (5:56 am)
Replying to: slr777 (Apr 11, 2009 5:23 am) I posted this same problem, last year. When the weather was warm, everything worked. When the weather was cold, the power door locks and driver's power window would NOT work. Yours may continue to work all Summer, but when Winter returns, the problem will reappear. The only permanent solution is to replace the driver's side power window/door lock switch assembly. If not in warranty, it's very expensive. This is certainly a frequent problem by many Colorado and Canyon owners, but GM won't acknowledge. Replies to this message: slr777 (Apr 11, 2009 6:09 am) flacondo (Apr 11, 2009 6:27 am) slr777 (Apr 11, 2009 8:24 am)
#209 of 249 Re: Door Lock Problem... [flacondo] by slr777 Apr 11, 2009 (6:09 am)
Replying to: flacondo (Apr 11, 2009 5:56 am) Yes I re call reading that. I am keeping print outs of all I find on this problem. Is there any programing involved with the driver's side power window/door lock switch assembly? its not clear to me I think I read something about that? Replies to this message: flacondo (Apr 11, 2009 6:27 am) slr777 (Apr 11, 2009 8:24 am)
#210 of 249 Re: Door Lock Problem... [slr777] by flacondo Apr 11, 2009 (6:27 am)
Replying to: slr777 (Apr 11, 2009 6:09 am) NO programing required. It's a very easy swap-out, so if you have to pay for replacement, I suggest installing yourself and saving the labor cost. Replies to this message: slr777 (Apr 11, 2009 8:24 am)
#211 of 249 Re: Door Lock Problem... [flacondo] by slr777 Apr 11, 2009 (8:24 am)
Replying to: flacondo (Apr 11, 2009 6:27 am) Thank you for the information.
#212 of 249 Re: 04 colorado not starting [tbunch] by hcoombs Apr 11, 2009 (11:56 am)
Replying to: tbunch (Apr 10, 2009 9:38 pm) tbunch: in my 2004 Colorado Owners Manual, Pg 2-17, it implies that all of the Colorado's are equipped with the passlock theft deterent system. the system enables fuel to the engine if the ignition lock cylinder is turned with a valid key. If a wrong key or the cylinder lock is tampered with, the fuel system is disabled. It also states 'remember to release the key from START as soon as the engine starts'.   (i still have a feeling that possibly the starter solenoid (sp?) or something in the start circuit is causing the starter to stay engaged too long. I believe that this will enact the passlock.) HCoombs Replies to this message: snaproll1 (Apr 11, 2009 2:51 pm)
#213 of 249 The window/lock/battery issue update by snaproll1 Apr 11, 2009 (2:51 pm)
Replying to: hcoombs (Apr 11, 2009 11:56 am) I think I started this thread way back when or at least this is where I posted the window/lock/fob/starting/battery problem a year and a half ago.   I've been following the thread since then. I've seen posts to the effect that it's the door module on the driver's side and bad grounds, but I really don't think that is the issue. When I started having the problem, I found a few posts on the net with a bunch of silly stuff people were hearing from their dealers. Things like running both more than one window at the same time was "the" problem, yada, yada.   Basically a lot of folks were saying that their dealer had "never heard of the problem before", yet I found several posts of the exact same symptoms. I found if I removed the door module connector and plugged it back in, everything would be fine for a few days. My dealer said that was absolutely crazy, at best it was resetting something in my BCM that 'fixed' the problem temporarily. My dealer said, "Never saw this problem before, and whatever you read on those internet posts are garbage..." The said the BCM tested bad, that would fix the problem for sure... and the problem happened the next day, truck wouldn't start, wouldn't turn over, dead battery. So they took it back in, farted around with it again and said the two and a half year old battery was the problem and... "Oh by they way, there was a service bulletin on your fuse block, which yours was burned... and we replaced that for free!"   Uh-huh.   That was about two years ago and I haven't have a problem with it again. Here's what I assumed happened. There is some defect in the fuseblock that fried the BCM, battery and possibly the heater blower motor. The day after they got done 'testing' all the stuff the blower resistor fried as well, "just coinincidence" according to them, (fried the very NEXT day???). So I think this improperly designed fuse block shorts out and causes all kinds of electrical problems with the truck. Since I had it replaced, (and all stuff that mysteriously fried in the space of about a week), I haven't had a problem since.   Well, except for the head replacement because of the soft valve seats. Luckily they covered that with no issues and the truck has been running ok since. I have 99K miles on it and it's a 2005. One other weird thing, I don't tow much or often, but I've had the U-Joints in the drivetrain go bad. I replaced one set a year ago and they're sounding like their going again, a metalic 'clink' like a pipe rattling every now and then. I'm still getting about 20MPG with the truck, which is why I bought it, but I'll tell ya, this is the last time I "buy American" until these bailout buddies start building reliable vehicles or honestly start backing them once again.
#214 of 249 Re: Fan switch only works on 4... [brokenall] by gthfish Apr 24, 2009 (3:22 pm)
Replying to: brokenall (Jun 13, 2008 3:47 pm) Thanks brokenail for the information, really appreciate it..gary
#215 of 249 Rough Idle, Dead Batteries and Dead Blower settings... by Alennx Apr 24, 2009 (10:35 pm)
Replying to: Alennx (Mar 08, 2009 9:25 pm) SOLVED!   I rented a Trailblazer for a week while out of State, same kit setup with phone, radio and batteries charging from my inverter, this vehicle is pretty much the same as the Colorado but has a voltmeter in it showing 14V at idle in the rental place.   So I'm watching this thing and by day three, the engine is starting to idle up and down and the voltmeter is showing about 12V at idle, but no engine light yet... which means all my kit is drawing more wattage than the alternator is making at idle and the battery is now sweating the load... so I quit plugging in my laptop during idle and, 24 hours later, idle is normal.   I get home and back in my Colorado, which still has the engine light on and idles between 500 and 700 every two seconds all day. I plug everything but my laptop in and a couple of days later, the idle levels out at 700 and the light goes out! That was several days ago.   The engine light came back on briefly the other night when I was idling with my headlights on for two hours, but then went out on the way home.   My belt is squeeling when it gets wet. I think this means I need a new belt? Or it means the alternator is so fried it's creating too much friction...   Either way, if I want to power my laptop in my truck for more than ten minutes, I have to get a much bigger alternator installed. One that will output 100A+ at idle.   On another note, I pulled the resistor pack for the blower in the passenger footwell and, wouldn't you know it, the connector on the red wire is all burned and melted. I think there's a Technical Oops Sheet on that so I might find a Chevy dealer who will fix it. JFYI, with the resistor pack disconnected, the blower still works on 4 and the heater, inside/outside button and A/C all work fine.   My 2005 Colorado just turned 80K and now runs like a dream again.
#216 of 249 Misc. electrical gremlins resolved by russ95 Jun 01, 2009 (10:52 pm)
My 2004 Canyon (3.5L 5MT 2WD) has had a continuing series of small electrical problems since new. These have included no start, blower motor, blower resistor, blower loom (2X), & intermittent rough idle. The truck now has 111,000 miles and finally runs right. The fix was simple, just put a real battery in it. My OEM style group 86-7YR battery died at the bottom of a wilderness lake boat ramp. I had to remove the upper & lower portions of the battery box to fit an old deep cycle battery from my boat to get back out of the mountains.  I chose to eliminate the battery box & vent hose and select a larger & stronger battery more suited for truck use. I installed a Costco/Kirkland #4 battery which is rated 1,000CA & 850CCA. This battery also has a 36Mo/100Mo warrantee & only costs $80.00. The battery is snug but fits into the available space, cables, and the stock battery retainer system. The bottom line is that EVERYTHING works better especially the engine which has never run this sweet. I suspect the combination of a minimal battery and a low capacity alternator result in excessive voltage drop and thus high amperage draws everywhere. My next step will be an alternator upgrade. This is a cheap way to stop buying electric parts. I also expect to see an improvement mileage & may get to 30mpg yet! Russ

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