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Pickups Chevrolet Colorado and GMC Canyon Chevy Colorado and GMC Canyon Electrical Problems
248 messages, Last post on Nov 17, 2009 at 4:12 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Colorado and GMC Canyon Forum. Your Host is kcram
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Replying to: tbunch (Mar 27, 2009 2:49 pm)
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Replying to: hcoombs (Apr 10, 2009 4:42 pm)
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Replying to: slr777 (Nov 25, 2008 3:13 pm)
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Replying to: slr777 (Apr 11, 2009 5:23 am) |
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Replying to: slr777 (Apr 11, 2009 5:23 am)
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Replying to: flacondo (Apr 11, 2009 5:56 am)
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Replying to: slr777 (Apr 11, 2009 6:09 am)
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Replying to: flacondo (Apr 11, 2009 6:27 am) |
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Replying to: tbunch (Apr 10, 2009 9:38 pm) If a wrong key or the cylinder lock is tampered with, the fuel system is disabled. It also states 'remember to release the key from START as soon as the engine starts'. (i still have a feeling that possibly the starter solenoid (sp?) or something in the start circuit is causing the starter to stay engaged too long. I believe that this will enact the passlock.) HCoombs
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Replying to: hcoombs (Apr 11, 2009 11:56 am) I've been following the thread since then. I've seen posts to the effect that it's the door module on the driver's side and bad grounds, but I really don't think that is the issue. When I started having the problem, I found a few posts on the net with a bunch of silly stuff people were hearing from their dealers. Things like running both more than one window at the same time was "the" problem, yada, yada. Basically a lot of folks were saying that their dealer had "never heard of the problem before", yet I found several posts of the exact same symptoms. I found if I removed the door module connector and plugged it back in, everything would be fine for a few days. My dealer said that was absolutely crazy, at best it was resetting something in my BCM that 'fixed' the problem temporarily. My dealer said, "Never saw this problem before, and whatever you read on those internet posts are garbage..." The said the BCM tested bad, that would fix the problem for sure... and the problem happened the next day, truck wouldn't start, wouldn't turn over, dead battery. So they took it back in, farted around with it again and said the two and a half year old battery was the problem and... "Oh by they way, there was a service bulletin on your fuse block, which yours was burned... and we replaced that for free!" Uh-huh. That was about two years ago and I haven't have a problem with it again. Here's what I assumed happened. There is some defect in the fuseblock that fried the BCM, battery and possibly the heater blower motor. The day after they got done 'testing' all the stuff the blower resistor fried as well, "just coinincidence" according to them, (fried the very NEXT day???). So I think this improperly designed fuse block shorts out and causes all kinds of electrical problems with the truck. Since I had it replaced, (and all stuff that mysteriously fried in the space of about a week), I haven't had a problem since. Well, except for the head replacement because of the soft valve seats. Luckily they covered that with no issues and the truck has been running ok since. I have 99K miles on it and it's a 2005. One other weird thing, I don't tow much or often, but I've had the U-Joints in the drivetrain go bad. I replaced one set a year ago and they're sounding like their going again, a metalic 'clink' like a pipe rattling every now and then. I'm still getting about 20MPG with the truck, which is why I bought it, but I'll tell ya, this is the last time I "buy American" until these bailout buddies start building reliable vehicles or honestly start backing them once again. |
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