Last post on Nov 25, 2013 at 5:21 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Colorado and GMC Canyon
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Chevrolet Colorado, GMC Canyon, Electrical, Truck
#172 of 684 Re: 2005 Colorado flipping out [duart]
Feb 24, 2009 (12:44 pm)
OK, we have the same problem. We are going to figure this out!
It's not the battery, I just put a new Optima Yellow in and the issues continue the same. It could be the alternator although last I had it checked it was putting out 14V. This was a spot check, not a monitoring over any driving time.
I am getting an occasional code... "rpm does not match the engine conditions." The suggestion is that the Air Intake sensor needs replacing or there's a vacuum failure. Does this explain the fluctuating rpms? Maybe. Does this explain the blower failure or the under-power while braking? Only if the drop in rpms leads to a drop in charge-back, which in turn drops below 12V. Why is the blower crapped out on 1, 2 and 3, but not 4? Should be the key to the problem but it makes no sense!
I am going to fit a Voltage Meter and watch what happens while I'm driving. I sometimes get my lights going dim and the revs dropping off under braking, which suggests that there's not enough juice in the harness to power the assisted brakes and keep everything else going... which leads me back to the Alternator. I am willing to bet that anyone who has had this issue has been running larger accesories for a period of time through the two power points and this has knackered the alternator as it attempts to keep up with the over-drain.
I am also going to get my belt tightened. I'll post as I go.
Let us know what you try. One thing I do know, The Chevy Dealers I've spoken to have no idea what the problem is and will do fuse-block or computer changes just to charge the **** out of you. I'm calling Chevrolet Corporate right now to confirm they have no idea...
#173 of 684 Re: 2005 Colorado flipping out [Alennx]
Feb 24, 2009 (1:08 pm)
Hey guys, your blower fan is just the fan speed resister that's located under the dash on the passenger side. It's easy to replace and costs about $20 or $25 at the dealer. Two screws and a wire plug. When you remove the plug, look at the contacts inside of the plug - look closely. If there is burning of the contacts then you'll also need the harness and you might want to let the dealer fix it unless you are very comfortable with that stuff... The reason that it works on position 4 only is that in position 4 the resister is bypassed and 12 volts is going directly to the fan.
About the lights dimming when you press your brakes... there was a brake recall some time ago. You might check to see that was taken care of. Also, if you replaced your stereo or added some other after-market item maybe some wires got repositioned and are touching the brake mechanism??? Just a thought.
Look, I don't work with any car dealer or anything but I know that if you call the service department at ANY car dealer, they are not likely to help you. Why??? Let's put it another way... if you walk into your favorite grocery store and ask them for some free milk, eggs, and steaks do you think that they are going to just let you have those for free? Of course not but yet some people want what the service department sells for free. They are selling their knowledge, experience, and time. They get nothing if they tell everyone how to fix their problems on the phone for free. I know that you and I spent a small fortune for our vehicles but the dealer didn't make the car or the problem. I hate taking my vehicle in for maintenance too but you have to do what you have to do sometimes...
With that said, I've had a problem with my Colorado door locks for months now and I'm too tight to go get it fixed - I won't call them though.
#174 of 684 Re: 2005 Colorado flipping out [mrwebman]
Feb 24, 2009 (2:24 pm)
Excellent heads up on the blower, I'm going to look at that in a minute.
I found in my research that the MAF is affected by a dodgy alternator or battery. The MAF is attempting to maintain the temp of the hot wire and changes the fuel/air mixture according to the flow & temp of the incoming air, conversely if the power delivery to the MAF is dropping off, it will have the effect of changing the mixture because the hot wire is not as hot and the return signal to the computer is changed.
I have a new battery so all roads continue to lead to the alternator. I'm going to get me a charge meter... no way some guy is going to line his pockets with my hard earned cash just because he has a family to feed and a mortgage to pay!
Here's a question... if I had the original battery (1 year ago) and it had to be changed out because it was boiling hot, so hot you couldn't touch it. Would that mean the alternator was over-voltaging the harness in order to charge the dead battery, since the dead battery was now acting as a huge resistor?... and would that lead to cooking the blower (1,2,3), and my CD/radio lights, and my CD player?... and would that lead to permanent damage to the alternator? Tell me I'm wrong, please
#175 of 684 Re: 2005 Colorado flipping out [Alennx]
Feb 25, 2009 (2:12 am)
Pollution control Module was defected or shorted out. This was replaced in my truck along with reprograming the Brain. Thank god it was covered under warrenty. Repair would have been aprox. 1,300.00 . Dont plug in power inverters or accessories to vechicle it creates feed back to some electrical componates.My truck now runs fine.
#176 of 684 Re: 2004 Chevy Colorado Electrical issues!! [dtower77]
Feb 25, 2009 (2:10 pm)
Hello, I Have the same problem you have only in a 2004 Colorado, I was just wondering how you went about fixing it?
#177 of 684 Re: 2005 Colorado flipping out [briguy7]
Feb 25, 2009 (5:21 pm)
Just what I wanted to hear 72K miles. $1300 repair bill? Thanks
So, I had the charging system tested at Kragens and with the lights and inverter on and under full load, the alternator was pushing out 14.7V. No other electrical issues detected during startup or engine-off either.
Get this, the engine light came back on and the engine dropped below 500rpm while he was running the test and the alternator kept pushing 14.7V!!!
So, according to Kragens, the alternator is fine, the battery is fine AND this morning the blower started working again and my CD player started working again. Tell me that the devil is not at work here!
The engine is coding that the RPMs are out of range so it could still be the MAF or I could have a vacuum seal break OR the "AIC?" sensor could be jacked... but that doesn't explain the random stopping of circuits, unless the computer is turning stuff off randomly, like when you first start the engine... what if the computer... no... yes, that's it. It has to be.
There's no over-drain protection on the acc circuits because I've killed a battery twice draining it out over a week by accident. The computer is turning off individual circuits like the blower, the CD player... but the accessory circuits are staying on, WHY! Surely that would be the first thing to go? No, because they are not controlled by the computer whereas the internal circuits, blower, etc are... Outside stuff is my own fault. Makes sense to me. You know Isuzu is selling this truck also?
So I have MAF cleaner and throttle body cleaner. Next I'll get the AIC? sensor checked and then if there is no improvement after that, It will be destined for the shop. DARN IT!
#178 of 684 Re: 2005 Colorado flipping out [mrwebman]
Feb 28, 2009 (2:21 pm)
I understand the blower speed is controlled by resistors. But this is not continuous. Sometimes the fan and all other problems work fine. When you lose a resistor its over. It don't come back. I am really starting to believe this is a bad ground problem.
#179 of 684 Re: 2005 Colorado flipping out [duart]
Feb 28, 2009 (3:20 pm)
No - it's not a ground problem if the fan works on High but not the other positions. That's cut and dry - the resister and/or the wiring harness to the resister. Not to say that you don't also have a ground problem. When my resister pack started going out it did just as you said - sometimes it worked and sometimes it didn't. To see why it's intermittent, unplug the plug from the resister pack at the fan motor and look at the contacts and you'll probably see why it works sometimes and not other times. Most likely you'll find one or more burned contacts. The test for the fan is to see if the fan always works on high - if not then look for a ground problem as the resister pack is bypassed in high position.
Personally, I'd stop looking for ONE reason for your problems because it sounds to me that you have multiple things going on.
To my knowledge, there's no such thing as a 'drain' sensor in any normal production vehicle. Maybe NASA has something like that but frankly, I would not want it in my car - if I don't want something powered up I can unplug/turn it off without some computer deciding what's best for me. Remember, leave the lights (or other load) on and when you come back to the car your battery could be dead.
Inverters: I'd never leave one of those plugged in because they eat (consume, waste) roughly 30 percent of the max load even when there isn't a load attached. So... 1000 watt inverter consumes 300 watts of power when not powering anything. 300 watts at 12 volts is 25 amps of current. 25 amps of current for 10 hours is 250 ampere/hours or to put it another way, a toasted battery. Now look at what the inverter does to your car when you ARE using 1000 watts, ie, when you do have a load plugged into it. At full load, it is consuming about 84 amps of current from your car but your alternator can not supply but 60 amps so the other 24 amps comes out of the battery and eventually you have a bulging, burned up battery. Of course, the numbers would be different for different size inverters. And, I haven't even touched on the noise that inverters send back into a computerized vehicle system...
#180 of 684 Re: 2005 Colorado flipping out [mrwebman]
Feb 28, 2009 (8:09 pm)
OK, so I'll take the blower problem out of the mix and just get a replacement resistor pack. Good, one down.
Now, I cleaned my MAF sensor today and it made no difference whatsoever to the way the engine idles. The engine is fluctuating between 450 and 700 rpm at idle so this presumably must be the AIC? sensor or a vacuum leak as the engine light code suggests.
My 2006 Mazda MPV LX will turn off the outside lights if the key is out of the ignition for ten minutes and the light are left on by accident. It will also turn off the inside lights if a door is left open by accident. That's what I meant by drain-protection.
If I have everything on in my 05 Colorado with the key turned to ACC, and then start the engine... everything turns off for a second until the engine is running... lights, radio, accessories. That is intentional switching somewhere in the harness. I was wondering if that could be selectively failing some circuits but it doesn't really make sense, especially considering your blower resistors. I guess I just over-heated my CD-player and it needed a while to reset.
Your electrical consumption figures seem to be generally accurate. My alternator says it pulls 400W continuous, which is 400/12=33A continuous draw against the acc harness and 800W peak draw (66A). The Factory fitted alternator in the Colorado is rated for 100A - 120A. This means that even at full load, the alternator can power my inverter with 35A - 55A spare for everything else and charging the battery (not including voltage drop across the harness and components).
BUT!!! I degunked my engine bay today and, wouldn't you believe it, I heard a horrendous squeeling noise (above 1000rpm) coming from somewhere on the belt. I checked everything and everything was turning, so I am willing to bet it's the bearing in the alternator. I heard this squeeling occasionally before but I was driving around the mountains in Washington and Oregon states so I figured it was cold and moisture on the belt. Not so.
Anyhoo, I found a High Output Alternator (200A) for the Colorado for reasonably cheap so I think I'll do that and get a new belt just for s***s & giggles.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/04-06-CHEVY-COLORADO-NEW-HI-OUTPUT-ALTERNATOR-200- -AMPS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1713Q2em153Q2el1262QQcategoryZ33573QQihZ010QQit- emZ200306064612
#181 of 684 Re: 2005 Colorado flipping out [Alennx]
Mar 01, 2009 (7:34 am)
Sorry, I can't help with the sensors. If you knew someone that had a similar vehicle that you could switch them out for a second, that would be great... Otherwise, I guess you'll have to go by the codes that's being shot and replace sensors one at a time...
Anything turned off automagically is done so by a contactor (relay). Contactors are pretty easy to test. Either change them out one at a time or swap them around to see if the symptoms change. Mine are located in the relay box under the hood. The really huge ones are outside of that box.
Your computations for the alternator are close. An alternator is designed to put out 13.8 volts (some actually a little higher). If your alternator is rated at 400W then it's capable of 400/13.8 which is 30 amps. The battery voltage when not being charged is generally 12 volts but can be down to 10 or lower depending on it's charge condition. A 500 watt load (inverter for instance) is pulling: engine on and battery charged: 500/13.8=36 amps; with engine off and fully charged battery 500/12=42 amps; engine off and weak battery 500/10= 50 amps. If you let the battery get much below 10 volts bad things start happening like starters not working and electronics failing.
On RV's you'll almost always see a separate set of heavy duty batteries just for the inverter. Instead of buying a bigger alternator, I would recommend adding a single deep cycle battery and battery isolation diode assembly to charge it. You can pick up the diode assembly at most auto parts stores or any RV supply house for around $50, maybe less. Wire your inverter directly to this battery with heavy duty cable. By adding this second battery you get several advantages: you'll never be stranded somewhere because of a dead start-battery; you keep most of the noise out of everything on your vehicle because the diode assembly isolates it; and you'll probably save your vehicle battery from premature failure because car batteries are not deep cycle batteries and the constant deep drain and recharge wants to send you back to the auto parts store prematurely. It is a truck so putting it in the bed up close to the cab should work and that keeps the huge wires going to the inverter short thus less $. If you have an audio shop near by they could help you because they do this sort of thing all of the time... you've heard them at the red lights... boom boom boom. The noise drives us all crazy but look at the electronics in one of those sometime - it's pretty amazing.