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Chevy Colorado and GMC Canyon Electrical Problems

249 messages,  Last post on Nov 24, 2009 at 4:21 AM

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What is this discussion about? Chevrolet Colorado, GMC Canyon, Electrical, Truck


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#11 of 249
Re: Colorado driver's window and door lock electrical problems [snaproll1] by snaproll1
Sep 02, 2007 (1:15 pm)
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Replying to: snaproll1 (Aug 27, 2007 6:30 am)

Ok, got the vehicle back plus a $400 dollar repair bill. Everything was fine Monday until Sunday and the ####ing thing crapped out again, same problem. Ran fine, then out of the blue, wouldn't start, windows, door locks and fob inop. Jumped it again, got it home again, pulled the door module again, pulled the harness blocks again, sprayed them with contact cleaner again, reassembled the door again and guess what started working again. I wonder if the six or seven times I have done this to fix the problem might indicate that there is something wrong with the door module?
 
I am so absolutely not a happy camper.
 
Naturally it's the holiday weekend so I can't choke the dealer, who by the way is GUSTMAN CHEVY in Kaukauna Wisconsin.
#12 of 249
Re: Colorado driver's window and door lock electrical problems [snaproll1] by snaproll1
Sep 07, 2007 (7:26 am)
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Replying to: snaproll1 (Sep 02, 2007 1:15 pm)

Ok, round two with the dealer... The truck is in right now.
 
They assure me beyond a reasonable doubt that messing with the door module has nothing to do with the problem. That disconnecting the module only resets something in the BCM fixing the problem but not curing it. Ok, that is possible.
 
So what about the $400 BCM they replaced? Oh it needed to be replaced they tell me. A code came back that said it was bad and had probably gotten trashed from a short in the fuse block they also replaced. Ummmm, ok. Well there was nothing that didn't work on the truck if the BCM was "bad" before. Oh, but it controls so many systems that there are ones I probably haven't used like the airbag. So in other words it would be the equivelent of taking the truck in for the window issue and having them determine that the fix would be to replace the worn tires. Then when the window still doesn't work having them say, "Yeah, but you needed the new tires anyway to be safe". Wrong. I would still 'take my chances' with the old BCM that worked rather than spending $400 bucks on a new one to 'be sure'. I authorized it to be replaced because they assured me it was the problem. It wasn't the problem. So we're going to have to 'talk' about that one.
 
Now they are going to have somebody troubleshoot the relays and such in the truck. They're figuring that the BCM is not shutting off with the truck and running the battery down. That would mean that the BCM problem has to have the ability to drain the battery in a matter of an hour.
 
My guess is they will replace some other part and want to charge me for it as the 'real solution' to the problem and still stick me with the bill for the BCM because it was 'bad anyway'. Again, that would be like putting on new tires, finding it doesn't solve the problem but saying, "You needed the tires anyway". I don't think so.
 
I'll post what I find out.
 
Oh yeah, one other thing. They scoff at internet, "You can read anything about any part on a car being bad and all of it is BS". Huh? Funny. According to them they have never encountered this door lock, fob, driver's window problem before. Their 'database' has no reference to it. So I guess all the other posts here about the problem "must not have happened". I guess all you other people are imagining the problem too.
 
I did call the 800 Chevy number that somebody suggested earlier and opened a case. Those people are all trained very well. "We sympathize and understand" about 20 times in a 10 minute conversation. Then offer the, "And we'll give you something free" just to pacify you enough to not think the unthinkable of not buying another Chevy. Well??? All I want is my fricking truck fixed for a reasonable price or I'm going to trade it and never buy another Chevy product again.
#13 of 249
Re: Colorado driver's window and door lock electrical problems [snaproll1] by mikeof48
Sep 07, 2007 (8:56 am)
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Replying to: snaproll1 (Sep 02, 2007 1:15 pm)

I won't guarantee anything, but about 2 years ago I had some electronic modules (AntiFreeze overfill & Airbag) on my wife's 2000 Buick go bad to the tune of $800. I contacted Buick via E-mail and asked if they had changed suppliers because my 1998 Oldsmobile had never had an elctronic module problem. By the time we were done the agreed to pay for the parts, so this avenue might be worth your trouble.
#14 of 249
Re: Colorado driver's window and door lock electrical problems [snaproll1] by snaproll1
Sep 07, 2007 (1:18 pm)
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Replying to: snaproll1 (Sep 07, 2007 7:26 am)

Ok, back from the dealer. They have trailed it down to a weak battery... that after last week during the $400 dollar fiasco when I asked them to check the battery and it was fine. The battery was "only" $129 bucks (special battery, only available through the dealer of course).
 
Ok, here's the deal (they say). The battery (only 2.5 years old) held a "good" surface charge but went flat quickly. If the battery went flat (possible short in the battery), when the voltage was low the door module would "lock up" and could only be cleared by disconnecting the door module, (except once if "fixed" itself without pulling the module).
 
The last service trip they got a code back that said the BCM was dead and assumed this was causing the door problem. They did a search for that code and found a service bulletin saying the fuse block could be the cause. They checked the fuse block and found a burned spot. They were kind enough to replace the fuse block on the 2.5 year old truck but wouldn't cover the BCM it apparently took out. The theory is that it could have cashed in the battery as well. Or the battery could have cashed in the fuse block which took out the BCM. In any event, the theorpy now is that the weakened battery not holding a charge would die at random times and the low voltage would lock up the door module. Replacing the BCM and fuse block "fixed everything"... except for the problem.
 
I'm wondering now if something is whacking the battery that they haven't found, that ruined the last battery and this new one, holding a charge longer will just cover up the problem until it is ruined. According to them, there is no draw on the battery anymore (something like .29 ma).
 
Apparently the BCM has a sizable electrical draw and if it is not "shutting down" properly. According to them this only happens when the key is fully removed from the ignition.
 
The bottom line is I have $500 in bills for stuff that shouldn't fail in 2.5 years. Life goes on... unless this fails again.
#15 of 249
Re: Colorado driver's window and door lock electrical problems [snaproll1] by snaproll1
Sep 11, 2007 (5:30 am)
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Replying to: snaproll1 (Sep 07, 2007 1:18 pm)

The dust is starting to settle. Today I call the Chevy hotline to see what they can do.
 
In short (literally) over the weekend (the day after the service) the blower fan started to act up, would only work on high and eventually started blowing smoke and burnt wiring smell. Back to the dealer on Monday. Turns out the blower motor resistor just happened to fail the day after they were charging and discharging the battery to trail down the window problem to the battery. So there's another $130 bucks. There is a harness between the resistor and the wiring that was burnt. The mechanic said it didn't look like a good connection. I wonder if they has to disconnect the harness when they replaced the blower motor that failed last March.
 
Aside from wrapping the wire into the steering shaft I think the mechanics at the dealership are pretty competent.
 
So the truck is 2.5 years old and has had 5 major electrical failures, the BCM, the fuse block, the blower motor, the battery and the resistor.
 
I'll post what the Chevy rep has to say...
 
Oh, yeah... I guess in the last post I forgot to mention that when changing the battery they managed to get a wire from the battery terminal to the bed cap light wound into the steering column. I picked the truck up, made a left turn out of the dealership, went to straighten out the wheel and it was like the power steering failed. I drifted into oncoming traffic but managed to yank the wheel back to the right with a loud thump, (wire broke). I get back into the dealer. The guy who changed the battery just left the cable hanging over the steering shaft and didn't bother to connect it back in a retaining clip. I'm not too shook up about that. It could happen to anyone. I've done stuff like that before. It makes me wonder though if this guy maybe used to work for ValueJet.
#16 of 249
Re: Colorado driver's window and door lock electrical problems [snaproll1] by snaproll1
Sep 17, 2007 (5:24 pm)
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Replying to: snaproll1 (Sep 07, 2007 1:18 pm)

Final post...
 
I did the Chevy complaint line... they offered me a one year subscription to the "Jelly of the Month Club"...
 
Seriously, they wouldn't do squat about the $800 dollars worth of electrical repairs this two year old truck has had. To dismiss the situation they offered me a 'maintenance package' (oil changes and tire rotations) "worth $390 dollars!!!"
 
Tire rotations?
 
Oil changes?
 
In other words, a chance to find other stuff wrong with the truck to stick me with more bills.
 
Yup, this is the last Chevy product I will ever own.
 
I sure hope the company goes bankrupt soon. They are well on their way.
#17 of 249
05 Canyon Lights by canyonblues1
Sep 19, 2007 (10:44 pm)
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I bought my 05 Canyon new in June of 05, and i think it has been at the dealer for repairs as much as it has been in my driveway. I have had tons of problems trying to get the blinkers, running lamps, cargo lamp to work simultaneously. So far, the only fix that seems to have been effective was a wire harness replacement underdash, and a computer replacement. I suspect the dealer mechanic is at fault for the "faulty" fusebox, and another "defective" harness. I am very dissapointed in this truck and GM service and will positively never buy GMC professional grade again. Also, when cold starting, the engine doesn't want to catch, then it does and after I release the key it keeps the starter engaged for a couple seconds more. If this truck was paid for I'd drive it off a cliff.
#18 of 249
Canyon Lights 2 by canyonblues1
Sep 19, 2007 (10:56 pm)
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Now my check engine light is on and the truck is 2000 miles out of warranty. I get a letter from GM telling me there is a rough idle issus thats causing an engine light problem. I plan to take it in and let them determine the error code. But its just one more frustration.
#19 of 249
Re: Colorado driver's window and door lock electrical problems [snaproll1] by snaproll1
Sep 30, 2007 (4:58 pm)
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Replying to: snaproll1 (Sep 17, 2007 5:24 pm)

One last chance here from the dealer, GUSTMAN CHEVY in Kaukauna... I got a "We value your business, when you get the Chevy form, please check 'completely satisfied' or give us a call..."
 
After a week or so I finally got a hold of the dealer rep in person. He was pretty understanding and agreed, it sounded like the fuse box failed and took out the BCM and battery, and their screwing around 'testing' the battery (running it down and charging it) probably spiked the resistor in the blower that failed the next day. He said he would contact the Chevy rep and see if they could get the company to cover some of it. He said since the fuse box is a "nonserviceable item" and the truck is only 2.5 years old and I'm the first owner he may be able to do something about the BCM and resistor, but probably couldn't get them to cover the battery.
 
Hey... this is the first "friendly" contact I've gotten from anybody associated with Chevy so far.
 
The woman on the "help line" that offered me the "jelly of the month club" package was constantly "apologizing" and "understanding"... she sounded like she was reading off a Q card. I finally asked her to stop apologizing.
 
The funny thing is, their $390 dollar "maintenance package" coveres an oil change every 6000 miles and tire rotations for 24,000. Give me a break. They recommend an oil change every 3500 miles when you have to pay for it, but 6000 when they have to pay for it. That's 4 oil changes "worth $390 dollars!!!" in the 2 years 24K miles. They must use Mobil 1 or something. What a joke.
 
Oh, and the rep from the dealer checked into it, they even got the mileage wrong. The truck had 64K on it, the woman said she'd start it at 63.5K and then she actually entered 17K, expiring at 37K. How's that for service!
 
Don't buy a Chevy.
 
I think the dealer is ok, the service guys are just doing their job to make money, but Chevy is a true disappointment.
#20 of 249
Re: Colorado driver's window and door lock electrical problems [snaproll1] by dmathews3
Sep 30, 2007 (8:04 pm)
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Replying to: snaproll1 (Sep 30, 2007 4:58 pm)

Only dealers recomend oil changes every 3000 miles. GM quit this a number of years ago as better engines and better oil entered the market. Unless your severe service you can go a whole lot longer. I suggest you read your manual and pick how you drive. Most GM vehicles now come with a oil monitor that will tell you when you need an oil change. This is a commputer that keeps track of just how you drive and then when the time is almost up will nag you for that oil change. I believe the Colorado has this feature but since I don't have access to mine at this moment I could be wrong. I usually shoot for about 5K just to be on the safe side.

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