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Kia Sedona Electrical Problems

64 messages,  Last post on Sep 18, 2009 at 11:39 AM

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#35 of 64 short circuit by saturn1968 May 18, 2008 (6:38 pm)
i had a short circuit under the hood which caused the computer to switch to safe mode i guess you could say. the engine starts, but the van is stuck in park, nothing works in the dashboard, power windows dont work. the short is fixed, but is there any way to reset the computer?
#36 of 64 Re: Rear Tail lights not working [henshe07] by mkglencrest Aug 20, 2008 (1:54 pm)
Replying to: henshe07 (Dec 24, 2007 10:05 am) Hello,    i have 2003 sedona with exact same issue. any resolution? thanks mk glencrest
#37 of 64 Rear tail lights not working by mkglencrest Aug 20, 2008 (1:56 pm)
I have a 2003 Sedona LX. All of a sudden my rear tail lights don't work anymore. When I have the key on, my head lights work fine but not the rear tail lights or the licence plate lights. All signal and brakes lights are working fine. I don't think it is fuse related or switch related. please advise- thanks mk glencrest Replies to this message: xnr (Sep 03, 2008 7:26 am) xnr (Sep 04, 2008 7:57 am) b14258 (Feb 09, 2009 10:30 am)
#38 of 64 ESC OFF light stuck on after brakes changed by icemanfl Aug 27, 2008 (4:17 pm)
I just changed the front brakes on my 2007 Kia Sedona and now the "ESC OFF" light is on and won't go off. Any ideas why? Is this related to changing the brakes? How do I correct this? Replies to this message: eland1 (Sep 29, 2008 6:49 pm)
#40 of 64 Re: Rear tail lights not working [mkglencrest] by xnr Sep 03, 2008 (7:26 am)
Replying to: mkglencrest (Aug 20, 2008 1:56 pm) Same problem with my 2002. No parking or licence plate lights. Everything else is fine. Did you get yours fixed??? Replies to this message: xnr (Sep 04, 2008 7:57 am)
#41 of 64 Re: Rear tail lights not working [xnr] by xnr Sep 04, 2008 (7:57 am)
Replying to: xnr (Sep 03, 2008 7:26 am) Put a fuse in the EXT slot (engine comp fuse box) and parking/tail lights work with switch but not with DRL.
#42 of 64 Re: ESC OFF light stuck on after brakes changed [icemanfl] by eland1 Sep 29, 2008 (6:49 pm)
Replying to: icemanfl (Aug 27, 2008 4:17 pm) I don't know if the ypur problem is related to the brake job you had done. But here is some info from Kia on this problem.  Technical Service Bulletin  Model Sedona [VQ]    Group Brake System(41)    Number KT2007111401    Subject SEDONA (VQ) ABS/ESC WARNING LAMP ON - POOR GROUNDS (Chassis 018)  Date Wednesday, November 14, 2007    Area N. America      - Description  Click here to open a PDF version of this TSB Some 2006 – 2007 Sedona (VQ) vehicles with a production date earlier than March 8, 2006 may exhibit a customer concern of an ABS/ESC Warning Lamp (MIL) being illuminated. Various DTC’s such as C2402 or U0001 may also be stored in the control module – OR – the GDS Scan Tool may not be able to communicate with the ABS/ESC system at all. Do NOT replace an ABS/ESC unit without at least first applying the procedure described in this TSB. These symptoms may result from poor grounds at G19 and/or G20, caused by paint remains between the bolt and mating weld nut attaching the ground terminal to the body. This TSB provides a procedure to properly correct this condition. Remember too, that other poor connections may exist, and should also be checked prior to any part replacement.   Ground Point G19 – G20 Located Behind ABS/ESC Unit On LH (Driver’s) Side Outboard Panel                 - Effective Vehicle Information  2006 – 2007 Sedona (VQ) produced before March 8, 2006   REQUIRED SST: Global Diagnostic System (GDS) with latest software version installed       - Parts Information  WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION: Claim Type  Causal P/N  Qty.  N Code  C Code  Repair Description  Labor Op Code  Time  Related Parts  Qty.    W  58920 4D300  0  N69  C15  Removal of paint from ground bolt  95660F00  0.3  NA  0      N69: Warning Light On C15: Poor Contact       - Service Procedure  Repair Procedure   1. Remove and set aside the engine cover. (4 bolts)                   2. Disconnect the Mass Air Flow Sensor’s (MAF) electrical connector.       NOTE: Slide the gray colored lock tab slightly in the direction indicated by the arrows in the photograph, which will expose the release tab for the connector. If this is not done first, the MAF connector will be damaged. Gray lock tab is shown here in the released (outward) position.       3. Loosen the hose clamps at the MAF and throttle assembly. Remove and lay aside the air intake hose as shown, so it’s out of the way.              4. Release the two spring clips that attach the air filter assembly cover. Remove the cover (with MAF attached) and the air filter insert. This will allow better access to G19 and G20.       5. Locate the ground point for G19 and G20. It is located behind and close to the ABS/ESC unit, on the LH (driver’s) side outward panel.       6. Using a ¼” drive ratchet, 14” extension and 10mm flex / swivel socket, reach behind the ABS/ESC unit to remove the G19 – G20 ground bolt.   You may need to insert your other hand over-top of the ABS/ESC unit (between the brake fluid reservoir and PCM) to guide the socket onto the bolt head.              The bolt used for G19 – G20 is a self-tapping bolt, which collects debris when first inserted. The next steps will provide a procedure to clean and further remove any remaining debris from this bolt and its threaded hole.       7. First, move the ground lug away from the threaded hole so no debris will collect on or between the ground surfaces during the thread cleaning process.         • Clean the removed bolt threads with a stiff bristle brush. (Do NOT use a wire wheel, as this can damage the bolt’s self-tapping capability!) • Reinstall the bolt fully without attaching the ground lug. • Run the bolt in-and-out completely 3 times (without fully removing) to clean the body’s threaded area. • Once again, completely remove the bolt and clean the threads with a stiff bristle brush. • Use compressed air to blow any remaining debris from the threaded hole, body surface and the self-tapping threads on the bolt.   8. Reinstall the ground lug on the bolt and fully tighten the bolt to the body. NOTE: Be certain that the hook on the ground lug is inserted into its mating hole when reinstalling bolt. Otherwise, the ground lug may become deformed and not provide a proper ground.   9. Install all parts in the reverse order of removal. Clear any DTC’s that may have been generated. Cycle the ignition key OFF, and then back ON. Make sure the ABS/ESC light (MIL) turns ON for the lamp check, and then turns OFF after several seconds. If the MIL comes back on, check for any stored DTCs, and repair as necessary referencing the service information.
#43 of 64 Re: KIA SEDONA POWER DOOR FAILURE [dweezer] by nomoresedona Oct 11, 2008 (4:27 am)
Replying to: dweezer (Oct 24, 2007 12:36 pm) My 2007 Sedona EX has the same issue plus it decides if the they will shut at all or I manually have to do it. Dealer tried to fix. Also DVD, wipers, and horn all had to be fixed. Too bad because it was a comfortable drive from Ohio to NC but the more bells and whistles the more likely for trouble. Our Odyssey went 4 years with zero troubles. Get what you pay for I guess.
#44 of 64 2004 Sedona-Stuck choke flapper by alan1950 Nov 15, 2008 (4:21 am)
Stalled when accelerate, is cause by stuck choke valve. After 4-years and 70000 miles this happen to my Sedona. I remove the air intake system, make sure you disconnect the battery to avoid the sensor activating "check engine" warning lite, then spray the intake with carburetor cleaner at the same time accelerate fully. Do this about 3-times and with W-D lubricator spray linkages and cables attach to the carburator.

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