Last post on Apr 25, 2010 at 10:21 AM
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Jeep Liberty, Diesel
#33 of 51 Re: Recommended Jeep Liberty Diesel Oil [caribou1]
May 10, 2007 (3:59 pm)
Right! That's what I thought you meant. The US CRD has 3 plugs (1 on the filter, 2 on the housing) and the primer that I'm sure you have seen in pictures also. With the Racor pictured I end up with and extra plug (or am I missing one?), no primer and have to possibly modify the wiring. The thing that I like about the Racor is the clear bowl that allows contaminants other that water to be seen. Thanks for reposting the pictures, I have 12k miles to think about it.
#34 of 51 Re: Recommended Jeep Liberty Diesel Oil [siberia]
May 10, 2007 (11:16 pm)
The dirty looking white knob located on top of the filter mount/housing is a priming pump. It works like a bicycle pump and has an o-ring under the knob to seal it off when screwed in. Then you have access to the check valve under the white plastic screw/cap located in front of the priming pump. You can replace or clean it if your fuel returns to the tank.
The Parker filter housing is accessible and repairable. Yours is quicker to prime, every 40,000 miles
When you buy the marine version, the mount/housing is painted beige. DC saved a penny by not painting it.
#35 of 51 Re: Recommended Jeep Liberty Diesel Oil [caribou1]
May 12, 2007 (6:55 pm)
Thank you for going the extra kilometer on you explanation. The US CRD fuel filter heater is sandwiched between the filter and the filter head. This is the only image that I could find of it and the unit is fried. You can see where the other connector goes - fuel temperature sensor to operate heater relay?
Please take a look at the catalogue below specifically page 9.
Is that your unit, model 230R, using R20S 2 micron cartridge and “Heater and See-thru Bowl”? Racor tells me that they think the R20S will fit on the US CRD filter head. If that is the case I can get by just buying the R20S cartridge and a non-heater see-thru bowl and install my existing water sensor. I am going to order the parts and find out.
#36 of 51 Re: Recommended Jeep Liberty Diesel Oil [siberia]
May 13, 2007 (12:09 am)
230R_P_12 is what I have. It's flawless.
If you retrofit this on your truck, spend the extra dollar on the purchase of two stainless steel elbow fittings ("Swagelock" or equivalent) for the fuel hoses.
You were lucky not to set fire with the fried connector
#37 of 51 Re: Recommended Jeep Liberty Diesel Oil [caribou1]
May 13, 2007 (5:58 am)
Well, someone was lucky. I borrowed the pic from another site. I hope that does not become a common failure.
#38 of 51 Re: Recommended Jeep Liberty Diesel Oil [siberia]
May 13, 2007 (10:15 pm)
Siberia.... Let me know how you comeback with this adaptation and if you do; what about the bleeding port, you know that air is a comun issue on the CRD.
#40 of 51 Oil in intake hoses
Mar 19, 2008 (7:43 am)
The oil appears to be coming from the oil seperator on the bottom end relief gadget on the top of the valve cover. The hoses from the oil seperator to the intake to turbo, the intake hose from the union where the hose from oil seperator t's in, the turbo and all hoses and the intercooler all the way to throttle body are oil soaked. For sure some of the oil if not all of it is coming from the valve cover relief unit. Is there any way to determine if any of this oil is coming from the turbo shaft seals? Should oil be bypassing the oil seperator on the valve cover? Any help appreciated.
#41 of 51 Fuel/water separator application
Feb 07, 2009 (5:40 pm)
I believe it is becoming a common failure. My vehicle has been in the shop for the last two weeks. During a routine fuel/water separator filter change, the tech noted that a fuel leak through the sensor plug (into the housing). Currently there is a back order of 888 of these units with no firm release date. I for one cannot wait that long. I have been reading the forum with interest, particularly if there is an option available. I am not a mechanic, but I take care of my CRD and get the service done. Just don't know if it could be as simple as an O-ring. Any help would be appreciated, including what parts I would need to get. I would assume the pic of the fried connector occurred in a wet (fuel rich) environment. If air/oxygen was not available, the failure would have difficulty propagating into a fire. Thanks.