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Pickups Dodge Dakota Dodge Dakota rear-end noise
43 messages, Last post on Mar 16, 2009 at 11:43 AM
You are in the Dodge Dakota Forum. Your Host is kcram
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Replying to: mags3 (Aug 18, 2008 1:38 pm) The 8.25 is more than adequate strength wise behind a 4.7 motor. The critical working limit is load and these axles are used on Dakotas under 6000 GVW and with smaller wheels and tires. The 9.25 is used on Daks above 6000 GVW and with larger wheels and tires. My son's '91 Dak is still going on the original 8.25 at 315K miles. I know when he had it he maintenance the differential every 50K. On my 2003 3.55 LSD 9.25 I've drained, flushed, and installed new lubricant every 25K. So far so good, but at my 100K I found one of the small curled ends of the steel end tabs clung to the magnet. Just lucky that the ring gear didn't pick it up. I looked at the ring and pinion and there is no signs of any damage. One thing that should be looked at more closely is the rear U-joint on older or higher mileage Dakotas. Vibration from a bad U-joint can take out a front pinion bearing and race. Holding my breath a little at 108,000 miles! Regards, Dusty |
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My Dakota rear wheel(s?) makes a rubbing noise when turning the wheel while moving. Have had it to the shop numerous times, and it still continues to do it. Any thoughts on this?
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Replying to: buffalo3 (Aug 30, 2008 3:14 pm) Regards, Dusty
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Replying to: dustyk (Aug 31, 2008 11:04 am) thanks
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Replying to: buffalo3 (Aug 31, 2008 12:14 pm) The lubricant used in LSDs contains a friction modifier which permits lubrication of the clutches while providing for a controlled rate of slippage. As miles accumulate the rear axle lubricant wears down, so to speak, the slippage of the clutches can sometimes cause a chattering between the separate cluch surfaces that sounds like a groan. I'm thinking this might be the cause of your symptom. Resolution is very simple. A drain and refill of the correct rear axle lubricant and a 4 ounces of friction modifier. For Mopar LSD differentials the LSD additive (friction modifier) is part number 04318060AB. Regards, Dusty
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Replying to: dustyk (Aug 31, 2008 9:56 pm) |
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| I had the same problems in my 1992 Dakota LE ext cab 4x4 5.2 well was a 5.2 until it got the 340 in a rebuild . I had taken it in several times early in its lifespan and Dodge replaced the ring and pinion twice and by the third time it was determined that it was the setup and shimming of carrier and pinion was at fault . The dealership said it didnt have the corerect tools to accomplish this and that they wouldnt even think of replacing the rear diff with a new from ma mopar. So i ate the cost onit myself and bought an 83/4 out of a buddies old 340 duster that was his drag car , did the approprate work to it mounts etc, and put it in there ourselves , and now have not had any problems since ..It is a bit of work but it is worth it in the long run.. Just some advice from a hillbilly missourian ... | |
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sorry im jumping on ur post and asking a new quetion but im new and really need some help. i have a 98 dodge ram quad cab short box sport. it has the 9.25 rear axle. when i shift my truck into gear thier is a heavy clunk and its even worse going from revers to drive or vise versa. i have got down and tryed to move the drive shaft to see if its the u joints but thier not moving at all. its been doing this for quite a while now. also its just recently got really bad. when im driving the truck thier is a bad shake. wich is not normale for my truck at all. it drives very smooth ussaly. all my friends hjave the smae truck and mine drives so much smoother. so i can really tell thats thier is a problem when im getting a bad shake like that. also now thiers is a clunking noise when im coasting like up to a corner to stop and time im slowing down i hear a clunking. any ideas what this could be?
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does any one know of a link or have the right procedure to set the back lash on 9.25 diff 
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Replying to: buddyayres (Oct 30, 2008 7:48 pm) I recommend getting someone you trust well and perform the following: 1. Place wheel chocks on the front wheels to prevent vehicle movement in either direction. 2. Start the engine and apply the parking brake. 3. Get underneath the vehicle in a position that allows you to listen and observe both ends of the driveshaft. 4. Have someone move the transmission in to a forward and a reverse gear intermittently. 5. Listen for the source of the noise. Watch the pinion shaft at the rear end for excessive movement when the transmission is engaged. Listen and watch at the tailshaft of the transmission for excessive movement or noise. Check for a broken transmission mount. Regards, Dusty |
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