- #255 of 491
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Re: Oil drain [mmm1]
by dennismau
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Jun 04, 2008 (5:50 pm)
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Replying to: mmm1 (Jun 04, 2008 12:13 pm)
It is a 15 minute job to change your oil in a Smart Car! Buy a filter from the dealer and 4 qt's of Mobil 1 Synthetic oil 0-40w(Auto Parts Store,Checkers,etc.).(The car holds 3 1/2 qt's). The filter and oil drain plug are underneath the engine on the right back side of the car. You do not need to lift the car in any way. The drain plug is BIG requiring a 24 mm socket(You can't miss it!). If you only have a 3/8" drive socket wrench you will have to buy a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter because this big 24 mm socket is only available in 1/2"drive. There is a copper drain plug washer that can be re used if you don't over torque when installing it or you can buy a new one at the dealer for a couple bucks.
Now you have everything you need to change the oil! Put a little drain pan under the drain plug and drain the oil then using a filter wrench(I used one that tightens as you turn it) loosen the filter and install the new one putting a little oil on the o-ring seal and hand tighten securely. Remove the carpet and engine cover on your Smart Car on put in the required 3 1/2 quarts of Mobil 1 Synthetic 0-40 w oil and your done. Start the car and make sure you have no leaks. I have changed oil in different cars in my day but I must say this is one of the easiest cars to change oil in have ever seen! It is may be a 15 minute job.
Dennis
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- #256 of 491
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Re: Oil drain [dennismau]
by mmm1
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Jun 05, 2008 (7:58 am)
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Replying to: dennismau (Jun 04, 2008 5:50 pm)
Thanks much Dennismau for the detailed explanation. Did you get this info about Mobil 1 out of the owner's manual or is Mobil 1 your personal preference? Since the oil only has to be changed every 10.000 miles I'm okay with the Mobil 1 but just curious about whether or not it is required. I quickly flipped through the owner's manual while at the dealership but don't recall seeing much on owner maintenance. I'm sure that Smart wants customers to come back to the dealership for oil changes and routine maintenance but there is no way I'm going to do this unless it is something that simply cannot be done by someone with above average mechanical skills. Not atl $100 per hour.
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- #257 of 491
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Re: Oil drain [mmm1]
by plekto
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Jun 05, 2008 (3:32 pm)
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Replying to: mmm1 (Jun 05, 2008 7:58 am)
The first couple of oil changes actually should be plain natural oil to help get the tiny pieces of grit and gunk out of the engine. Change at 50 miles and 500 miles, then normally after that with whatever you want to use.
(synthetic is too "slippery" and won't adequately clean the fine grit and gunk out)
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- #258 of 491
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Re: Oil drain [plekto]
by gregg_vw
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Jun 06, 2008 (4:36 am)
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Replying to: plekto (Jun 05, 2008 3:32 pm)
One does not have to do those early oil changes anymore. In fact, VW insists that you do not. The first oil change should go the length recommended with no shortening. They believe this contributes to better engine break-in, seating and longevity. You have to remember the tolerances in a modern engine are extremely tight...the fine metal, grit and gunk of older engines has been eliminated.
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- #259 of 491
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Re: Oil drain [gregg_vw]
by dmathews3
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Jun 06, 2008 (4:47 am)
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Replying to: gregg_vw (Jun 06, 2008 4:36 am)
True and some manufacturers put in a special oil or additives just to help the break in process.
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- #260 of 491
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Re: Oil drain [dmathews3]
by plekto
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Jun 06, 2008 (10:14 am)
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Replying to: dmathews3 (Jun 06, 2008 4:47 am)
But we're talking about the FourTwo here. As far as I know, they're giving us a normal 3 cylinder engine and pushing us out on the road.(ie - the engine appears to be whatever they could stuff into it, technology-wise and not something made specifically by Mercedes) Given how easy the thing seems to be to change oil, changing it an extra time or two at the beginning seems to be a good idea.
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- #261 of 491
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Re: Oil drain [plekto]
by gregg_vw
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Jun 06, 2008 (11:41 am)
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Replying to: plekto (Jun 06, 2008 10:14 am)
But not if you are not supposed to. All engines are different these days than from back when 3K oil changes were recommended. If the engine breaks in better with what the manufacturer installs the first time, why would you dump that and risk things not seating right? Not to mention the unnecessary waste of the oil.
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- #262 of 491
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Re: Oil drain [gregg_vw]
by dmathews3
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Jun 06, 2008 (1:30 pm)
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Replying to: gregg_vw (Jun 06, 2008 11:41 am)
Some people still think this is 1960 and don't want to move up into the current times. AM and 8 tracks are dead and so is changing oil at 50 miles.
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- #263 of 491
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Re: Oil drain [gregg_vw]
by plekto
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Jun 06, 2008 (2:06 pm)
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Replying to: gregg_vw (Jun 06, 2008 11:41 am)
The thing is, that with new engines, 75% of seating the rings happens in the first 50 miles. After that, the bits that were taken off - that fine grained metal dust - is floating around in the oil causing wear to the other parts. This is as you might imagine, not a very good thing.
Technically you don't need to change the oil. You need to change the *filter* so that it isn't half-clogged with these particles. And yes, the oil that comes out from the first change usually has grit in it that you can actually feel if you rub it between your fingers.
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- #264 of 491
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Re: Oil drain [plekto]
by gregg_vw
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Jun 07, 2008 (6:13 am)
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Replying to: plekto (Jun 06, 2008 2:06 pm)
One last time...that used to be true. It ain't anymore. If you want to change your oil at 50 mi, be my guest. But I will do what is recommended to take care of and extend the life of my new engine longest. If I am supposed to leave in the factory oil mix for x miles, there is an engineering reason for it. "It stands to reason" and other arguments don't apply. If you do not know why there are now recommendations against early oil changes, then why not find out?.
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