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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Starting problems

124 messages,  Last post on Aug 19, 2008 at 4:37 AM

You are in the Chevrolet S-10 & GMC S15 Sonoma Forum. Your Host is kcram

What is this discussion about? Chevrolet S-10, GMC S-15, GMC Sonoma, Engine, Truck


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#99 of 124
Re: 2002 GMC Sonoma 4.3L [nighthawk5556] by tony78
May 09, 2008 (3:09 pm)
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Replying to: nighthawk5556 (May 03, 2008 11:53 pm)

Interesting story, 1st thing to remember is to never jump start a car that has a computer or several computers that operate different systems, the proper way to jump start a comp controlled car is to disconnect the pos/neg cables,then charge the battery, preferably with a trickle charger if the battery is really low (checked with a volt/ohm meter first). The biggest problem with jump starting is that $en$ative and expen$ive electronic systems don't really like to get hit with a voltage spike. As for the starter the maximum time it should spin is about 15 seconds with a 3 to 5 minute cool down time between each cycle, the cycle time is variable as it depends on ambient/radiated temperature (heatsoak). Spark can be tested with GM tool ST-125 (looks like a spark plug with an alligator clip attached) blue spark=good, yellow=weak ignition, as for checking the ignition system follow in this order : plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, igntion module, coil. Hope this helps.
#100 of 124
Re: Mixed up...... [gonogo] by tony78
May 09, 2008 (3:19 pm)
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Replying to: gonogo (May 08, 2008 8:51 am)

oops! refer to forest gump, it happens.
#101 of 124
Re: got everything except fuel. [dunc2] by tony78
May 09, 2008 (4:05 pm)
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Replying to: dunc2 (May 05, 2008 6:54 pm)

The possible reason the truck wouldn't start after your friend (?) ran it dry was because the fuel lines had air in them, back in the day we called that ' vapor lock' , try bleeding the air from the fuel line, the shop does this at the point where the fuel inlet line connects to the pressure regulator fuel rail assembly, or where the fuel line connects to the throttle body, this can be accomplished by using a vacuum pump (snap-on tools # YA 4000A, or equivalent). caution a flash fire can result if you try and loosen line while engine is cranked, wrong way to bleed air.
#102 of 124
Basic Tools For The Home Mechanic by tony78
May 09, 2008 (4:39 pm)
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A. volt/ohm meter
B. test light
C. compression guage
D. vacuum pump/guage
E. torque wrench
F. screw drivers/phillips/standard/torx
G.socket set /metric/english/ 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 drive
H. wrenchs /box/open end/crow foot
#103 of 124
Hey Tony... by nighthawk5556
May 12, 2008 (8:54 pm)
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Getting new starter tomorrow..........if we get the GM tester and it proves to be a weak spark, then what?
#104 of 124
??????? by nighthawk5556
May 14, 2008 (5:04 pm)
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Boosting the truck was our only resort, as we didn't have a charger. Still didn't change anything. It does the same thing now as it did when it wouldn't crank. I'm sure that GM tool is the same as the spark tester I got. Just goes 'in-line'. Don't know how well it checks it as far as 'color-coded' goes.......but it happened to be light blue. May just be the color of the bulb though, lol. Any spark will fire with gas and air both present though, right? Weak spark would just make it run crappy......or so it seems. New starter still not in.......or haven't heard yet.
#105 of 124
87' s10 2.8 ?ignition? 3 turns to start???? by woodnrust
May 19, 2008 (6:22 pm)
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i have a 1987 s10 2.8L front wheel, 150,000 miles, just replaced o2 sensor, pcv valve, air filter, oil, and oil filter. inspected gas pump and lines, the vaccume lines, cleaned carburetor, (with carb cleaner spray) i replaced the plugs cables and distributor cap last year, used high end stuff, inspected it all.
 
i have to crank the engine over three times to start it, or one good 10-15 sec one to start it. it fires during the crank over.
when this problem started occurring the check engine light intermediately comes on, at the same time the light is on the truck runs ruff, mostly this happens in the morning. so when the light is on it runs ruff when no light, it runs good, and the hole time its takes 3 good cranks to start.????????????
any help much appreciated...
#106 of 124
Re: 87' s10 2.8 ?ignition? 3 turns to start???? [woodnrust] by tech3363
Jun 05, 2008 (1:46 pm)
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Replying to: woodnrust (May 19, 2008 6:22 pm)

manual fuel pump or electric???
#107 of 124
2000 S10 4.3 won't start by cruzer23
Jun 10, 2008 (7:13 pm)
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Recently installed new fuel pump assy because old went bad. Ran great for 1 week then all of a sudden loss of power badly going up a hill, running at about 20 percent power. Puttered it home and changed fuel filter and it then ran at approx 60 percent power. Two days later it will not start, cranks hard and will fire with starting fluid for a couple seconds. Fuel flowing thru filter (disconnected engine side/soaked driveway nicely) and blew compressed air thru supply line to disconnected end at fuel meter block without prob. Still no start, ANY ideas???? Thanks
#108 of 124
Re: 2000 S10 4.3 won't start [cruzer23] by dbrucker
Jun 11, 2008 (5:29 am)
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Replying to: cruzer23 (Jun 10, 2008 7:13 pm)

My s-10 would run after using starter fluid but would not fire without it. Replaced the TPS and it runs and starts fine.
 
If the TPS is bad it won't signal the ECM that it needs full as it is telling it that it isnot starting.
 
I bought my TPS at Advanced Auto for about $30.
 
Any repair shop should be able to hook up a computer to tell you what degree opening it is showing at idle which will tell you what is up.
 
Good luck

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