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Mazda RX 8 Engine Failure Problem

39 messages, Last post on Oct 07, 2009 at 8:23 PM
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| I hope ya all are not using syn-oil in your rotary! | |
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007agnt, You are correct, one should not use "synthetic base oil" in the RX 8 because the seals used in the RX 8 are made of cheap materials, which cannot withstand the "synthetic "based" oil. This is unlike, to the best of my knowledge, the seals used in all other cars because they can use synthetic based oil. If the seals are not made of materials that are "synthetic oil friendly" the seals will shrink and get brittle / hard which causes oil to leak into the catalytic converter causing it to fail. On the other hand, mineral oil will cause the same seal to swell and deform, which over a slight longer time will also cause the same seal to fail. I have heard also claims that synthetic oil injected into the motor will not burn or cause residue in the converter and cause it to plug up sooner....duh....anything burned in the catalytic converter will leave a residue of some kind. Though some of the oil additives of years ago which protected from metal to metal wear in the motor have been removed from modern oil, so car manufacture's will not need to replace failed catalytic converters before the warranty ran out ......all at the expense of the consumer and the profit gain of the car manufacture. So the "short story" is that, if the Mazda RX 8 seals are not good enough to use with synthetic oil then they also are not good enough "over the long haul" for mineral oil. If Mazda really had the consumer in mind they would use better seals so that the seals would not be effected by either kind of oil and the consumer could use synthetic oil, if the consumer wanted the car to last longer. That is the reason in my above posts I did not mention synthetic oil nor recommend the use of it in my discussion above, so there could be any confusion. The very light 5W-20 weight oil required by Mazda in RX 8's though, is actually only a 5 weight oil which is blended with synthetic polymers that cause the very thin 5 weight oil to increase it's viscosity to that of a 30 weight oil around an oil temperature of 220 degrees to supposedly help cushion metal to metal contact when the oil is very hot. But remember the oil is still only a 5 weight oil regardless of the 30 viscosity of the oil at 220 degrees and it is actually thinner at 220 degrees than it was as 5W oil at 0.0 degrees.......duh. Let's see if the sales, public relations and Master Tec's who talk like they are design engineers and know everything, understand that fact. Just remember that most of the recommendations one reads or is told about cars is from some public relation or so called "Master Tec's" who were told in some 2 week short course what they are supposed to think by the same type of so called industry expert. Design Engineers who know the truth, have forgotten more than all these spokespersons in the industry repeat and don't really understand......consumer beware !!! |
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Went in for an oil change and any service related to 25,000+ miles and also asked Mazda to perform any recalls related to my 05 rx8 (Grand Touring manual). My only complaints to the tech at that time were minor rattles coming from heat shield and the dashboard instrument panel. They asked me to leave the car with them for the weekend. I got a call a day and a half later saying that my engine did not pass the series of tests performed on the engine which is related to the recall. I was told I would be issued a re-manufactured engine. I never experienced any problems with the old one. Not one. I beat the hell out of that old engine and it ran great. I spent more time between 5-8500 rpms than I did at 3000! (Just kidding) I was hoping for a brand spanking new one, but oh well. I was caught completely off guard because I live in chicago and recent posts said the engine problems were related to most cars in warm/hot weather climates. I was also surprised because the tech test drove it with the old engine and said the performance of the old engine was not at its full capabilities. I got it back about a week and a half later (today), and I have to say it runs velvety smooth. I don't notice any increased performance, but the car feels smoother during acceleration and quieter during revs. It feels like it did when I first bought it. Plus, they took apart my instrument panel and tightened four loose screws that were causing the rattles. They even re-secured the heat shield underneath to stop the underbody rattle. No more rattles. My total bill was 85.00 for minor parts, replacing the cabin filter and rotating of tires. Not too bad considering the only money I have ever put into this car were the Blizzak winter tires and oil changes. I even got upgraded brake pads to stop the squeaking. I know there are some people ticked off about the engine problems or service and its understandable, but I am not at all miffed about the engine replacement. The service was great and my little toy runs like its new. I recommend that everybody get the recalls dealt with, regardless of what type of climate you live in. My tech said he has had to replace 7 RX8 engines over the last 6 months. |
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I have an 04 rx8 A/t w/ 52k, and I live in Central Arizona. We have probaly 90+ days over one hundred degrees. My car was making a funny vibrating grinding noise when i would get up in the higher RPMs, and also under a load like going up a hill. The RPMS would also fluctuate. I took it in 3 times under the 50k warranty for it and they could not duplicate it. 3 days ago, my wife was driving it in phoenix and the cars RPMS fluctuated like crazy and it died. She got it started again and pulled into a shopping center. We had it towed in and left it at Earhardt Mazda. I am now out of warranty so when I spoke with the service advisor, he said that It looks like I am gonna need a new engine, and he is in communication with Mazda to see if they will cover it. I bought it from them only 3 months ago, and did my job by bringing it in to document this problem and they might not cover it? Any suggestions..
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Replying to: t_rev (Oct 16, 2007 11:43 am)
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Replying to: mdw1000 (Oct 27, 2007 9:21 am)
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Replying to: t_rev (Nov 03, 2007 9:31 am) |
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| OK so I have an rx-8 2004 .. I took it into Mazda had all the recalls fixed .. the car is running fine from what I can tell but there is a maple syrupy smell coming from the engine which is making me nervous I have a lil over 41,000 miles on the car does anyone one else have this smell coming from the car or do I need to take the car back?? and one more thing after reading what was wrote about the oil should I switch the oil from 5w-20 to 5w-30?? I don't really mind the extra gas I rather put out for gas then major problems with the car later... anyone have a lil advise for me ...OLDTIMER2 you seem to know what you are talking about can you help me out or anyone else please thanks... one more thing sorry to be such a pain but I was driving the car and I was waiting at the light and had the car in neutral and all of a sudden the car shut off when I took it to Mazda the blamed the battery but when I had the battery tested it was in good health .. does anyone have a answer for that | |
| ok so I have a maple syrup smell coming from my engine of my Rx-8 Mazda does anyone know what it could be??? and should i switch my oil from 5w-20 to 5w-30?? can anyone help me ... and I've had all my recalls takin care of on my 2004 Rx-8?? | |
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Replying to: oldtimer2 (Feb 18, 2007 1:17 pm) I bought my car in 6 months ago, after warranty, because the engine was driving sluggish and the engine light was on. Mazda service put new coils on and when i got in my car the check engine light instantly came on. Great repair job! I immediately took it back to Mazda service and they said they made a mistake and they replaced the spark plugs. Couple weeks later the check engine light came back on, but i wasnt able to return for a couple months later until 3 weeks ago. I brought it in and they replaced my cat. convertor which was under warranty b/c i now have 72k miles. Got lucky. 2 days later my check engine light came back on and I was livid. I took it in and they said they knew what the problem was. They replaced something and i told them to drive it for 2 days and find the root of the problem and stop reading what the computer says. They just called me saying the intake valve(i think) needs to be replaced. The part is 1600 dollars and they have to pull the whole engine out in order to do this make the total cost 3600. What can i do about this? |
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