Last post on Dec 09, 2013 at 6:39 AM
You are in the Chevrolet Equinox
What is this discussion about?
Chevrolet Equinox, Oil, SUV
#38 of 107 Re: Burning Synthetic [arlinghaus]
Jul 10, 2010 (3:59 pm)
I have a 2010 Equinox 4 cyl with about 22,000 miles. I use Mobil 1 and change at 6000 mile intervals (oil life monitor still shows over 40% life remaining at that point). Hasn't burned a drop of oil yet.
I have seen a few complaints on other forums about excessive oil usage in the 4 cyl Equinox. Sometimes that just happens. For example, we've had 3 Chrysler minivans with nearly identical 3.8L engines. Two of them never burned a drop of oil. The third would burn a quart every 1500 mi, almost from the start - but Chrysler said that was not considered excessive. We got rid of that van with about 70,000 miles on it and never had any engine problems.
#39 of 107 Oil Pan Damage and Noise in rear
Aug 11, 2010 (5:10 pm)
Okay, for about a week or so I have noticed a "thunk" sound when I go over a slight bump and when I turn. Coming from the rear of my Equinox. Any ideas what this could be? Also, took my Equinox in for an oil change today (the first) and was told that there is "damage" at the right rear of the oil pan that looks like it is crimped. I am told that this is causing a leak and that it probably occured during assembly. Wait..........I am not leaking oil. When the service guy check it, it wasn't low. They say I have to go in and have this fixed, supposedly under warranty. I am leary, it doesn't seem to make sense. I have had a bad experience since the day I ordered this car. Anyone have a clue what this is about?
#40 of 107 Re: Changing Equinox's Oil [robinv]
Aug 14, 2010 (10:23 am)
Here's some vaulable info and advice on changing oil on your 2010 Equinox. First of all, locate the filter which is actually on top of the engine right behind the dipstick. It has a black top that requires a hex metric socket approx. 1 ". Don't know the exact size but it's a pain to remove without a socket and swivel extension. The drain plug is on the passenger side under the engine and faces the rear of the car. It is horizontal the the ground. This is important because there is another plug facing downward that is smaller, but this is the transmission drain. ( ask me how I know) The drain plug takes a 15mm socket or wrench.
Once you have removed the filter cap the filter comes out with it. It merely snaps into the bottom of the cap.
#41 of 107 Oil Monitor Reading vs Miles Driven
Sep 21, 2010 (5:04 pm)
Have you ever compared the oil monitor reading to your mileage? I'm beginning to suspect the oil monitor isn't measuring deteriorating oil viscosity, it's guided by the odometer. I do a little comparison every 1000 miles. You would think the percentage decrease per 1000 miles would be lower when the oil is newer and gradually increase over time, having higher percentage drops as miles grow. Not true, mine drops 10% every 1000 miles almost to the mile, no matter how miles the oil has been heating up.
After 1000 I'm at 90%. At 6000 miles into the oil change, the monitor is reading 40%.
#42 of 107 Re: Oil Monitor Reading vs Miles Driven [runox]
Sep 22, 2010 (8:52 am)
The oil life monitor does not monitor the oil directly, nor is it guided solely by the odometer. Instead, the computer keeps track of a number of environmental conditions and uses a computer program to predict the effect of these conditions on your oil. As a result cars that do a lot of easy highway driving can have the oil monitor let the oil go many more miles than cars that only do city. I get about 4,500 miles in mixed driving from my 2006 Equinox.
"The GM Oil Life System is a computer based software algorithm that determines when to change oil based on engine operating conditions. There is no actual oil condition sensor. Rather, the computer continuously monitors engine-operating conditions to determine when to change oil. To learn more about the Oil Life Monitoring System, please visit the GM Environmental Commitment page. "
http://www.gm.com/utilities/frequently-asked-questions/all-questions/index.jsp?d- - eep=faq
#43 of 107 Re: Burning Synthetic [ragtop262]
Oct 30, 2010 (6:55 pm)
I'm planning on graduating from doing my own breaks/rotor replacements to changing my own oil. I have the 2.4L 2010 Equinox and have about 5000 miles on it, oil life shows around 30%. Since I bought it, I figured I may as well go Synthetic. 5W-30..
Amazon has 6 quarts of Pennzoil Platinum 5W30 Full Synthetic for $20 shipped, not in stock now, but may come back. Is this better or the same as Mobil1 Synthetic? I'll get a funnel and a oil filter socket for 2.2L GM (guessing same as 2.4L) or 32mm socket. Do I get a cartridge based filter or something like: K&N HP-7000 Oil Filter - Amazon doesn't list any cartridge based filters that work. Or do you take the "cartridge" off and replace it with something like the HP-7000?
Also, I can probably get to the bolt (I can see it) without ramping the vehicle, is it worth it to get some ramps though? Do I need to get replacement washers/gaskets?
1. Place something down to catch the oil, undo the bolt (you said it's the one facing back, not straight down), afterwards tighten the bolt back up. Do you turn this clockwise or counter?
2. Undo the oil filter, pour out any oil inside of it if any. Place the new filter in with 2/3 oil in it, place some oil on the rim of it? and tighten the bolt down.
3. Pour in how much oil at first? 4 quarts, 4.5?
4. Pull out dip stick, clean, put it in and makes sure enough is in.
5. Start the car and hope it doesn't start smoking!!??
Does that cover it? What oil and filter do you recommend? If I buy extra oil and a filter for next time, are they ok to sit 6 months? Next, I go, dang that was easy, why did I pay someone to do this all these years! Just like when I did my breaks for the first time.
Thanks much, Nick
#44 of 107 Re: Burning Synthetic [the3dolla]
Oct 31, 2010 (1:45 pm)
I have a 2006 with a different engine (3.4 V6). Walmart has both of those synthetic oils in 5 quart jugs at really good prices.
I just bought Mobil 1 5/30 for $22 and the oem filter at Walmart. I use it because it is also offered at my local Chevy dealer for times when I have them change it. I do not know what filter the new engine uses but Walmart has a number of AC Delco oil filters. From what I have read Wix and Purolator are also really good oil filters.
I also recommend the blue surgical gloves. Then your hands do not smell like oil for 2 days.
#45 of 107 Re: Burning Synthetic [commuter10]
Oct 31, 2010 (2:09 pm)
I also recommend the blue surgical gloves. Then your hands do not smell like oil for 2 days
Messy messy boy. Your mother must have loved you at dinner.
#46 of 107 Re: Burning Synthetic [runox]
Nov 01, 2010 (10:14 am)
Also, with the gloves on you are less likely to drop the oil plug into the draining oil (which I have done more than once) and you can drain the oil while it is still fairly hot and not burn your skin. Plus mom does not get as irritated!
#47 of 107 Re: Burning Synthetic [the3dolla]
Nov 03, 2010 (12:49 pm)
I have a 2010 2.4L Nox. Haven't changed the oil yet myself in it (have free oil changes through GM for another 13k miles), but change oil regularly in our other vehicle and in previous ones.
I can't comment on the location of the oil filter, or what bolt is the oil drain plug because I haven't looked yet (sounds like you have that figured out, though). But, your process is about right. I'd recommend ramps, but if you are small enough to crawl under there then more power to you. In my truck (traded in for the Nox) I was also able to get under it, but in our Vibe I have to jack it up. If you jack it up always use jack stands. If you use ramps, make sure you put the emergency brake on and put stops behind the rear wheels so the car has no chance of rolling.
A few notes:
Change the oil when the engine is warm, it flows better and you'll get more out. I usually drive it until at full operating temperature (a simple 5 min. drive), then let it cool off a bit while I change into old clothes, and gather all the supplies I'll need for the process. So it sits for probably 10 minutes after driving before I drain the oil.
Usually to loosen oil bolts you'll turn counterclockwise. Clockwise to tighen.
For the filter, take some new oil and put it on your finger. Rub it on the gasket when putting on the new oil filter. The gasket on the Nox filter is separate from the "regular" part of the filter because it is a cartridge style filter and not a typical canister style. The gasket should come in the box when you buy a new filter.
The manual says the 2.4L engine takes 5 quarts. I'd put in 4.5, let the engine run for about five minutes to get the new oil nice and hot, then check it. Add more as necessary. Make sure to wait 2-3 minutes after you turn the engine off before checking the oil each time because it takes a bit of time to drain into the pan after the engine is shut off.
Right now Oreilly's (and its affiliates like Checker, etc.) has Valvoline Synpower for $20 for 4 quarts (1 gallon), buy one get one free after rebate. You can do up to 2 free. That is 16 quarts, enough for 3 oil changes, for $40 in oil. You can go the full oil life monitor, even in a DI engine, with a good synthetic. That's pretty cheap, $2.50 per quart for a quality synthetic. Otherwise, the Pennzoil Platinum you mentioned is a good oil, better than Mobil 1 currently, IMO. Without going into details about why (post is already long enough), it is definitely advisable to use a synthetic in any DI engine.
For oil filters, just avoid orange can Frams and you'll be fine (not sure if they make orange can equivilents in cartridge style filters). Recently (maybe still) Advance Auto Parts online had Purplator Pure 1 filters (great filters) for $5.00 each. Get 5 online and you can use coupon code "BIG10" and get $10 off $25, so 5 filters for $3 each. Use pick up in store and you don't have to pay shipping. If you don't want to hunt for sales, Rockauto.com has good prices usually even after shipping.
Hope this info. helps.