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Subaru Legacy/Outback Unusual Clunks and Noises

50 messages,  Last post on Feb 12, 2008 at 3:17 AM

You are in the Subaru Legacy & Outback Forum.

What is this discussion about? Subaru Legacy, Engine, Wagon

Messages Page 3 of 6

#16 of 50 Re: 2000 Subaru Outback Boxer Eng. Piston Slap [ateixeira] by bfindlay

Jul 13, 2007 (10:53 am)

Replying to: ateixeira (Jan 17, 2007 10:18 am)
The piston slap problem is still an issue with new cars too. My wife and I purchased a 2006 2.5I Outback last year and after only 4000 miles we started hearing a terrible slapping noise when the car warms up that sounded like someone was taking a hammer to the engine block! The trouble is, it is inconsistent and of course when we bring the car into the dealership it doesn't act up. It seems to be associated with cold days and when it happens (about 40% of the time) our neighbors are looking around wondering what that banging noise is. This car is still practically brand new! We are taking action with Subaru and plan on selling the car as soon as we can get it fixed. Too bad since other than this problem we love the car...
 
-Brad
 

#17 of 50 Re: 2000 Subaru Outback Boxer Eng. Piston Slap [bfindlay] by shrinermonkey

Jul 13, 2007 (8:20 pm)

Replying to: bfindlay (Jul 13, 2007 10:53 am)
More than likely this is not piston slap as the pistons of the 2.5 engine no longer have the shorter skirts. What you are hearing is most likely valve train noise caused by lack of oil at startup. Try switching to a lower xW viscosity oil like a 5w-x or 0w-x or a synthetic. If you want to stick with conventional oil, try Havoline Deposit Shield 5w-30, it is a thinner weight 5w-xx oil. These oils will start flowing faster and easier in the cold. You might also want to consider a different oil filter. The Subaru OEM and Purolators are very good and offer excellent flow.
 
Even if what you are hearing is piston slap, it has very little affect on the life of the engine and you have stated that it hardly every happens and goes away after the car warms up. I am not seeing what the big deal about this is? Is is really that bad of a problem to get justify getting rid of the car? I guess you might see this as being a terrible problem, but I guess I just don't see it.
 
I seem to be seeing more of this lately. Someone has one minor problem with their car and they are flaming away on message boards saying how horrible their car is, etc... I owned a 2001 VW Passat, I KNOW what an unrealiable car is, and yours ain't got nothing on it.

#18 of 50 Check engine light by sstevek

Jul 15, 2007 (7:07 pm)

The Check engine light came on my '02 Outback 2.5 a couple days ago. The mileage was about 95,900, don't know if that's any significance. Checked everything obvious, looks ok. I don't notice any unusual sound (I do get pinging with regular gas which has been going on for awhile)or any lack of performance. Wonder if anyone has had the same warning around the same mileage. I'll probably just have to take it into the dealership.

#19 of 50 Re: Check engine light [sstevek] by shrinermonkey

Jul 16, 2007 (6:33 am)

Replying to: sstevek (Jul 15, 2007 7:07 pm)
Piston slap has nothing to do with CELs. If you are pinging on regular gas you should get that engine checked out anyway, you may have carbon build up on your valves causing hot spots. My guess is that the pinging has something to do with your CEL, maybe a bad O2 sensor or the like.

#20 of 50 Re: Check engine light [shrinermonkey] by pathtomax

Jul 16, 2007 (11:19 am)

Replying to: shrinermonkey (Jul 16, 2007 6:33 am)
I had the exact same thing around 110,000 miles. I am far from being a technician, but I would bet it is the Knock Sensor. My CEL came on intermittently for about a week and when I brought it in...bingo, they replaced the sensor.
 
From what I have read online, it is prone to happen around 100k miles.

#21 of 50 2003 outback wagon 2.5l piston slap/valve adjust by dcmsox2004

Jul 16, 2007 (11:48 am)

i've noted that other folks have had their problems with the 2.5l engine, and the obonoxious loud ticking noise which seems to appear without any prior cause... however, my car was in the subaru dealership in january '07, after the garage which takes care of basic maintenance noticed an oil leak from one of the manifolds, and they told me that they were aware of gasket failures in certain subarus, and to have the dealer replace under the powertrain warranty.
( had about 57k at the time, and less than the 5 years).
i did exactly this, and the next morning, sure enough, it was the proud owner of a loud ticking noise, which became more apparent as rpm's increase in city driving. ( please also note that the dealer replaced the timing belt since this had to be removed anyway, and i only had to pay for the part)... at highway speeds, the noise is very hard to discern, primarily due to highway and tire noise, and running at about 2,500 to 3, 000 rpm on the tach....
the local gargage, which is highly respected and aaa approved, noted that they have mentioned that the valves might need to be adjusted as this is common when timing belts are replaced.... the dealer however explained that this should not be necessary because the valves were not impacted when this major engine work was performed...
the question to subaru was, why did this new headache inducing noise appear after this major engine work when it never, ever made this noise before..... tis a mystery to them, and next week it will go in to the dealer for analysis and whatever engine repair is necessary to eliminate this unpleasant situation.. this will be under my extended warranty purchased through the dealer at the time of purchase, so glad i did...........
and for the individual who may think this should not be made a big deal.... spend 27 grand for something which now sounds like my '62 beetle's engine and you be happy with it... we all should expect high quality from suburu for what they tout as exeptionally crafted automobiles....

#22 of 50 Re: Check engine light [pathtomax] by sstevek

Jul 17, 2007 (6:37 pm)

Replying to: pathtomax (Jul 16, 2007 11:19 am)
Like yours I think mine may be intermittent, it turned off on the way home today. Sounds like it may be the same sensor,

#23 of 50 Re: 2000 Subaru Outback Boxer Eng. Piston Slap [2000sub] by subyparts

Jul 19, 2007 (11:31 am)

Replying to: 2000sub (Jan 16, 2007 3:44 pm)
Yes you should take the vehicle back to the dealer and insist on having them change the driver side pistons. there was a bulletin out for knocking noise and it depends on your warranty that you have. it should be covered if you have a subaru gold plan!!

#25 of 50 96 AWD Legacy Wagon Drivetrain Noise by dimwittedmoose

Aug 26, 2007 (5:13 pm)

I've searched the archives, and come up with nothing, so here goes a new thread.
 
Our fairly new(to us) 96 Brighton AWD Wagon w/136k on the odo has a ballsy rumble coming from under the vehicle. To me it sounds more pronounced in the back seat than the fdront, but I now how sound can travel from its origination point in a vehicle. It is pretty consistent both in town at low speeds and also on the highway. The noise seems to be vehicle speed-related and not engine speed-related, so I'm leaning towards drivetrain issues.
 
Before I go in and replace wheel bearings, wheels/tires, Center Driveshaft bearing, axles, and tear into the rear differential, I was hoping this forum could help me isolate the cause a bit.
 
My wife drives it more than I do, so her despription is what I'm using here. She says(and PO comfirms this) that the noise is more pronounced when making a sweeping right hand turn on the open road but turning back to the left, the noise is still there, but not as noisy. A simple right hand turn on a city street doesn't generate any more noise than a left hand turn and no clicking sound symptomatic of a CV joint going bad.
 
The PO is a friend of ours and has stated that this noise has been with the vehicle for as long as they've owned it and it hasn't gotten any worse over the last 50k. Thee PO did some on- line research and found out that Subaru re-designed the 97 model drivetrain to get rid of this "problem".
 
If any of you know what this is specificically and how to fix it, I'd be eternally grateful?
 
New tires didn't solve the problem for the PO, so I'm sorta ruling that out.
 
If I have to install a 97 or later rear Differential or drive train, will they interchange and how do I tell if I'm getting an"improved" model other than checking the VIN number on the car?
 
thanks
 
Max

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