Last post on Dec 08, 2013 at 4:43 PM
You are in the BMW 5-Series
What is this discussion about?
BMW 5 Series, Sedan, Wagon
#41 of 89 Re: 2004 5 series weak start charged battery now no start [delgotti2524]
Oct 31, 2009 (2:00 pm)
Yes, my issue was the starter...had to be replaced. Hope this helps.
#42 of 89 Re: starting problems [98bmw540i]
Mar 26, 2010 (6:33 pm)
hey, i now its been a while but i have a 99 528i that i just picked up and the ignition is doing the same thing and yours. In order to ge the car started i must turn the key on half way till the aux lights come on , hold for 10 sec and then turn the key off and then start the car. any clues on to whats wrong with it.... maythe the Key or mabe needs new ignition coil???? please help
#43 of 89 my 530i won't start
Aug 25, 2010 (3:25 pm)
hi i have a 2003 530i just purchased it on the weekend drove it for a few days and started noticing that the shifter light wont go off and just recently the car died
had the battery tested and it was fine , all the instruments lights are all working but the car won't start
can anyone help
#44 of 89 bmw525xi wont statrt
Nov 12, 2010 (7:55 am)
can someone help my 525xi bmw wont start, the battery is good, all the light and radio functioning well but it would not crank
#45 of 89 Re: bmw525xi wont statrt [frantz2]
Nov 12, 2010 (4:30 pm)
Does this model have a neutral interlock switch? If a manual, often the clutch must be pressed to close this switch. On an automatic, it must be in park or neutral. If the switch or the linkage isn't adjusted properly, or the switch has failed, you'll never get the starter to operate. There are other things, like the starter relay, or an ignition switch, or even the starter motor itself, but not much more in the starter circuit. Now, cranking but not starting has another big list of possible problems.
#46 of 89 2007 550i Starting Problems
Dec 22, 2010 (8:03 am)
I have a 2007 550i and have been having problems with the car not starting and stalling. This happens sporadically, where I go to start the car, and when I push the button nothing happens (All the light, radio, etc. work). After repeatedly pushing the starter button, it will eventually turn on. In addition, the car will stall while I'm driving.
I took it to the dealership (still under warranty), and they said it was fixed. The believed it had something to do with the break system, that the car was not registering when I was pressing the break while starting the car.
The problems have started to occur again, and wanted to see if anyone else had experienced the same problems.
#47 of 89 528e won't start
Jan 07, 2011 (5:38 pm)
I have a '83 528e that won't start. It began gradually a couple weeks ago, when I turned the key it wouldn't start but made a buzzing sound. After a couple tries of turning the key off and on, it started. Then gradually it would happen for frequently and take more and more tries before it started. Now it won't start at all. All the lights work and I just got a brand new battery about a month ago.
Does anyone have an answer?
#48 of 89 Re: 528e won't start [kls50]
Jan 08, 2011 (1:04 pm)
I had this problem on my 2003 530 i, what it turned out to be is the EWS control unit. I beleive this unit is located in the steering column and is electronically linked to the key. This is a coded unit therfore you will have to present the BMW dealer with a copy of your license and registration before the install. Total cost was $ 610 installed.
#49 of 89 BMW 525i 2008 model
Sep 24, 2011 (2:12 pm)
my car doesnt start in the morning, i tried, charging the battery n putting it back and it starts up fine, but, the next morning it wont start and the battery would be flat. i also bought a brand new battery but it dint change anything.
Can someone please help me with this?!!
#50 of 89 Re: BMW 525i 2008 model [rin0]
Sep 24, 2011 (3:17 pm)
You likely have a component malfunctioning and not turning off properly which is discharging the battery overnight. There are ways to isolate this, but the average person doesn't have the skills or equipment to do it. The other main possibility is if the alternator or voltage regulator is defective. Also, make sure that the belt driving the alternator is not worn or slipping.
If you have a clamp-on or in-line ammeter, you could monitor it and then go through the fuse panel, pulling one fuse at a time to isolate which circuit is drawing the power. That will get most circuits, but some are on fuseable links, which are harder to check.