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Wagons Subaru Crew Subaru Legacy & Outback Subaru Outback/Legacy Brakes
93 messages, Last post on Nov 10, 2009 at 10:35 AM
You are in the Subaru Legacy & Outback Forum. Your Host is kcram
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Replying to: ateixeira (Aug 11, 2008 9:51 am) Big Breakers. 10mm bolts to extract the rotors if they are frozen on.  -mike |
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Here is brake repair history: 84900 miles=Rotors and pads (April 2006) 92371 Brake Fluid Flush 95368 Resurfaced =Rotors on my complaint of extreme pulsating (2/1/207) 105320 DS Front Caliper frozen, replaced and replaced Front Pads...(11/24/2007) Now...111.500 miles...extreme pulsating brakes--- Special comments: I will not return to the shop who has done this work, they told me after turning the rotors they would not warranty these repairs again since he was sure I was doing something to cause this chronic issue. I think there is an underlying problem here, what do you guys think? thanks vicki 
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Replying to: kidchellin (Aug 18, 2008 9:15 pm) 92k brake flush- This should be done every 30k miles or 3 years whichever comes first, it's part of the 30k/60k/90k/120k etc. mile service required 10k later the brakes are resurfaced due to pulsations- This can be due to the bad caliper that you had replaced at 105k or some other issue. 6k later you have pulsing brakes, could be due to the stuck caliper damaging the rotor while stuck. On a side note you said this work was done at a "shop" was it a dealer using Subaru parts? Aftermarket Parts? Generic Parts? There are some very very cheaply made cheap rotors that a lot of shops will slap on your car, these rotors will warp/get pad deposits very quickly and are basically crap. -mike Motorsports and Modifications Host |
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Well, i have 30k miles now, and the manual says I need to change the brake fluid. I've bled brake fluid before, but i've never actually changed it ... do i just bleed it as I pour new fluid in the cylinder or what? heh BTW the car has been running great with zero problems. although I already had to replace the windshield because of a pebble attack 
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Replying to: madhtr (Aug 20, 2008 5:07 am) Yes basically you bleed em til the fresh fluid starts to come out the bleeds. I alternate between ATE Superblue and Gold so that I know when I've fully flushed each line. The proper flush/bleed method is to have 2 people. One pumps up the brakes. The other cracks the bleeder (with a tube on it to catch the fluid). The person in the car says "Floor" and holds the pedal to the floor. The Cracker says "Closed" after the bleeder is closed. The Pumper then pumps up the brakes and says "Hard". Cracker opens the bleeder again. Repeat this til the tube shows that there is fresh fluid coming out. Make sure to refill the resivoir along the way. On subies you start at the drivers front -> Pass Front ->Driver Rear ->Pass Rear. -mike Motorsports and Modifications Host
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Replying to: paisan (Aug 20, 2008 6:44 pm) 1) Passenger front 2) Driver rear 3) Driver front 4) Passenger rear. Then bleed the 2 slave cylinders.
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Replying to: shrinermonkey (Aug 25, 2008 8:18 am) -mike Motorsports and Modifications Host
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Replying to: paisan (Aug 25, 2008 5:39 pm) |
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I am planning on replacing my brake rotors because they are warped and the pads are done. So I am going to do a complete change. I was wondering what you guys would recommend for rotors. I want so good high quality rotors that will not warp (as easily). I have a 2000 Subaru Outback Sedan Limited. It is has 115,000 miles. I bought it with 86,000 miles 2 years ago. I have not done much to the brakes aside from getting them turned once about a year ago. It did not fix the problem but it made it a little more bearable. I was just wondering if it is better to get cross drilled or slotted brake rotors, or both?
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