102 messages,
Last post on Aug 11, 2011 at 9:39 AM
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Subaru Legacy & Outback Forum.
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Subaru Legacy, Brakes, Sedan
#54 of 102 Re: Revised posting to #44 re. 2000 subaru outback brake problems [eberglund]
by eberglund
Aug 09, 2008 (8:02 pm)
Reply to my own posting #49:
I had my mechanic check out my brakes and it turns out this grinding noise was from rust on the rear rotors (this car came from MN). He showed me the rust and it was substantial, and he verified the noise by spinning the rotor. He said not to do anything about it... drive until they need to be replaced and then do pads and rotors.
#55 of 102 Re: Revised posting to #44 re. 2000 subaru outback brake problems [eberglund]
by ateixeira
Aug 11, 2008 (10:51 am)
You may want to price them, they're not that expensive, especially if you do the labor yourself. Discs are easy to swap out, too.
#56 of 102 Re: Revised posting to #44 re. 2000 subaru outback brake problems [ateixeira]
by paisan
Aug 12, 2008 (6:21 pm)
They can be easy. Although there are some tricks to the trade to make it easier.
Big Breakers.
10mm bolts to extract the rotors if they are frozen on.
-mike
#57 of 102 Chronic Brake Issues-2000 Outback
by kidchellin
Aug 18, 2008 (10:15 pm)
Here is brake repair history: 84900 miles=Rotors and pads (April 2006)
92371 Brake Fluid Flush
95368 Resurfaced =Rotors on my complaint of extreme pulsating (2/1/207)
105320 DS Front Caliper frozen, replaced and
replaced Front Pads...(11/24/2007)
Now...111.500 miles...extreme pulsating brakes---
Special comments: I will not return to the shop who has done this work, they told me after turning the rotors they would not warranty these repairs again since he was sure I was doing something to cause this chronic issue.
I think there is an underlying problem here, what do you guys think?
thanks
vicki
#58 of 102 Re: Chronic Brake Issues-2000 Outback [kidchellin]
by paisan
Aug 19, 2008 (4:39 pm)
Well let's see. 84k on the first set of rotors and pads is very good.
92k brake flush- This should be done every 30k miles or 3 years whichever comes first, it's part of the 30k/60k/90k/120k etc. mile service required
10k later the brakes are resurfaced due to pulsations- This can be due to the bad caliper that you had replaced at 105k or some other issue.
6k later you have pulsing brakes, could be due to the stuck caliper damaging the rotor while stuck.
On a side note you said this work was done at a "shop" was it a dealer using Subaru parts? Aftermarket Parts? Generic Parts? There are some very very cheaply made cheap rotors that a lot of shops will slap on your car, these rotors will warp/get pad deposits very quickly and are basically crap.
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
#60 of 102 Changing Brafke fluid - 07 Impreza Outback Sport
by madhtr
Aug 20, 2008 (6:07 am)
Well, i have 30k miles now, and the manual says I need to change the brake fluid. I've bled brake fluid before, but i've never actually changed it ... do i just bleed it as I pour new fluid in the cylinder or what? heh
BTW the car has been running great with zero problems. although I already had to replace the windshield because of a pebble attack
#61 of 102 Re: Changing Brafke fluid - 07 Impreza Outback Sport [madhtr]
by paisan
Aug 20, 2008 (7:44 pm)
Well, i have 30k miles now, and the manual says I need to change the brake fluid. I've bled brake fluid before, but i've never actually changed it ... do i just bleed it as I pour new fluid in the cylinder or what? heh
Yes basically you bleed em til the fresh fluid starts to come out the bleeds.
I alternate between ATE Superblue and Gold so that I know when I've fully flushed each line.
The proper flush/bleed method is to have 2 people.
One pumps up the brakes.
The other cracks the bleeder (with a tube on it to catch the fluid).
The person in the car says "Floor" and holds the pedal to the floor.
The Cracker says "Closed" after the bleeder is closed.
The Pumper then pumps up the brakes and says "Hard".
Cracker opens the bleeder again.
Repeat this til the tube shows that there is fresh fluid coming out. Make sure to refill the resivoir along the way.
On subies you start at the drivers front -> Pass Front ->Driver Rear ->Pass Rear.
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
#62 of 102 Re: Changing Brafke fluid - 07 Impreza Outback Sport [paisan]
by shrinermonkey
Aug 25, 2008 (9:18 am)
That bleed order is incorrect. Subies have the brake lines crossed so that the front left and rear right are on the same channel and vis-versa. The correct order is:
1) Passenger front
2) Driver rear
3) Driver front
4) Passenger rear.
Then bleed the 2 slave cylinders.
#63 of 102 Re: Changing Brafke fluid - 07 Impreza Outback Sport [shrinermonkey]
by paisan
Aug 25, 2008 (6:39 pm)
I've done it the other way on 200+ subies and no issues, even on our race cars.
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host