Last post on Nov 30, 2013 at 11:32 AM
You are in the Ford Escape
What is this discussion about?
Ford Escape, Brakes, SUV
#75 of 137 Re: 2005 ford escape brake problems [tyates]
by vg33e power
Apr 15, 2010 (7:06 am)
If your rear brakes were smoking and strong burnt brake compound was present after parking. Your rear brakes need to get checked out. Sound like the rear brakes are over adjusted or the rear cylinders are seized up open either way your shoes (asuming you have rear drum brakes) are constantly rubbing up against the drum, definately a fire hazard. One way you can check is by jacking up the rear wheels (one at a time) DO NOT put parking brake on and try to spin the wheel. If the wheel does not move then you have what I just mentioned. If the wheel moves from 3/4 to 1 and 1/4 turn, then your rear brakes are fine. Let us know what you find out.
#76 of 137 ford escape
Apr 18, 2010 (10:46 am)
ok, jacked suv up and tried to spin wheel, but only with alot of force. Have disc brakes in back, no springs. Can't see anywhere to adjust brakes? Any other suggestions, or should I take to shop?
#77 of 137 Re: ford escape [tyates]
by vg33e power
Apr 19, 2010 (6:47 am)
Your Escape has rear disc brakes for regular braking, However, it also has separate rear brake shoes that are used for parking only. The center part of your disc brakes also acts as a small drum where the rear shoes are located.
Were you by any chance accidentally driving with your parking brake applied, even just slightly? Other then that and having the parking brake adjusted too much would cause the smoke and brake burnt smell.
#78 of 137 2007 HYBRID ESCAPE BRAKE ISSUES
May 22, 2010 (8:33 pm)
I have an all wheel drive 2007 Ford Hybrid Escape.
At 36, 600 miles the master cylinder went out. Brakes squishy, would not hold until pressed almost to the floor, very scary. Some surging and acceleration preceeded this problem. I took it in to the dealer, they said the computer said it was the master cylinder, which they replaced to the tune of $1,800. The car was just off warranty.
This sucks. I am dubious about Ford escaping liability for replacement of that cylinder and braking.
Here is my question: HOW LONG SHOULD A MASTER CYLINDER LAST?
I live in Seattle, WA., if that makes it different from South Dakota. Hilly, but not exactly like San Francisco, and in the normal course of driving my routes are pretty flat. Any info about similar issues with your Ford Escape and any basic car knowledge about how long a master cylinder should last would be very helpful! Thanks.
#79 of 137 Re: ABS and traction control light [jvdx02]
Sep 07, 2010 (9:12 am)
We just had the traction control light show up on our 2010 Ford Escape limited. Car only has 5,000 miles. We tried to turn off the light with the manual override button...nothing. Thank goodness we immediately took the car in for service the next day. When the mechanic at the dealer took if for a test drive, the wheels on the right side locked up, car lost control - no joke. They had to replace a few sensory modules: AIr Bag Restraint system module, and the restriant control module. Not sure what those mean, but don't mess around if if that light goes on and won't turn off. Apparently it was so bad when it happened, it freaked the mechanic out pretty bad. Thank god we weren't in the car with the family!
Hope this helps!
Sep 07, 2010 (9:34 am)
has anybody had trouble separating the rubber to metal brake line connection on a 2005 ford escape/mazda tribute? the front passenger side line blew, so we removed the line from the caliper, removed the spring and loosened the strut bolt to release the line, then removed the spring and loosened the rubber to metal line fitting, but we can not separate them, any tricks? or maybe we missed a step? any feedback would be appreciated. thanks 2.3l, auto, fwd, 105k
#81 of 137 Re: brake line [jmeising]
Sep 07, 2010 (10:17 am)
You should just be able to pull off brake line after removing the horse shoe locking clip. Perhaps a few twists to break the seal between the rubber hose and the metal line.
#82 of 137 Re: ABS and traction control light [rebbru]
Sep 07, 2010 (3:05 pm)
Good to hear this happened to a dealer as my brakes failed (only had 30% braking power) about 5 times already over 60k miles when the traction control light unexpectactly come on. Had it to the dealers twice and they where unable to find a faulty component. Sounds like in desperation they replaced a lot of stuff and also didn't find the true problem that causes this failure.
FORD suck not being able to pin point the failure and letting consumers drive these vehicles, talk about Toyota having issues!
Good luck, I hope yours doesn't re occur like mine. I am lucky as mine is a company car and we change 65k, 1k more to go whoo hoo!
#83 of 137 Re: 2007 HYBRID ESCAPE BRAKE ISSUES [michelem1]
Oct 28, 2010 (11:51 am)
$1,200 is a lot of money, but it could be worse.
I have a 2006 Escape Hybrid with 101,000 miles. The ABS Hydraulic Control Unit went out. OK, 101,000 miles. I can see something going out. The dealer said the replacement part was $4,500 plus 4 hours of labor for installation. I paid $29,000 for the car. If you back out transportation, Dealer profits and overhead costs and Ford profits, SG&A, advertising, etc, I can't imagine the direct material cost on the car when sold was more than $20,000. And this one stinking part - which can only be bought from Ford - is $4,500. It's criminal what they charge. So, sorry about the Master Cylinder, but it could have been worse.
At least I received a nice form letter reply from Ford when I complained about a part costing $4,500 though. I mean, no money or recognition that they were screwing their customers, but a nice form letter nonetheless.
#84 of 137 Re: brakes [obie1946]
Nov 02, 2010 (5:40 pm)
I'm having the same problem with my 2002 Escape
did the master cylinder fix your problem?
I have put 2 master cylinders, front calipers, front flex lines, front pads and rotors, rear wheel cylinders and rear shoes and I'm STILL having this problem. tha car will have good brakes for a couple of weeks and then one day i go to stop and the pedal goes right to the floor just like i blew a line. i come home crack the bleeder screw on the left front caliper get some air out and i'm good to go for a couple more weeks. the funny part is the brake fluid never goes down. even when i loose the brakes the level is still right on full.
if someone can help please send advice, before i drive this thing to the scrap yard!