Last post on Mar 26, 2013 at 10:55 AM
You are in the Ford Escape
What is this discussion about?
Ford Escape, Brakes, SUV
#72 of 128 Re: Still stumped [mamastella]
by vg33e power
Mar 25, 2010 (7:30 am)
I am sorry that your mechanic cannot find the culprit. Only other components that could possibly be faulty are:
Rt. Ft. Caliper #YL8Z-2V120-ABRM ($99.37)
Lt. Ft. Caliper #YL8Z-2V121-ABRM ($70.30)
Proportioning Valve #YL8Z-2B091-BA ($55.12)
Power Booster #YL8Z-2005-AA ($210.07)
These part numbers are specific to your Escape and those are its MSRP's
#73 of 128 ABS and traction control light
Apr 01, 2010 (5:08 am)
I purchased a 2010 XLT Escape 2 weeks ago. I got all of 13 miles from the dealership when the ABS and Traction control light came on. Once I pulled over, turned off the car, turned it on again and then made a turn the lights went off. This has happened 8 times now. I brought the car back to the dealership for service. THey kept it over night test drove it all over the place and the best they could say was that they had to clear the lights and reset the trac system. Well on my way home the lights came on again! Does anyone have any suggestions?
#74 of 128 2005 ford escape brake problems
Apr 14, 2010 (9:28 pm)
our 2005 ford escape has had the grinding rear brakes we bought it used in '07. we have had them checked many times and told that is 'normal'. we have replaced the front brake pads every six months since buying it due to the pads being wore out. got the brakes and rotors replaced last september. just had them replaced last week (april 2010) due to high pitched noise (not during braking). was told the brakes had 'crystalized'. picked the car up from the mechanic and on the way home still heard squealing. mechanic said wait through 'break in period'. drove the car 20 miles and when got out smelled 'brakes', checked front of the car and no smell. rear brakes we smoking and could smell it really strong. worried that it might catch fire before getting it back to the shop. called the mechanic and he said might let some air out??? wth? a friend said that the back brakes are self adjusting and that i need to drive it in reverse and slam the brakes on a couple of times... doesn't seem safe to me! has anyone had this problem and can i do something about it or should i have it towed to the mechanic?
thank you for any help!
#75 of 128 Re: 2005 ford escape brake problems [tyates]
by vg33e power
Apr 15, 2010 (8:06 am)
If your rear brakes were smoking and strong burnt brake compound was present after parking. Your rear brakes need to get checked out. Sound like the rear brakes are over adjusted or the rear cylinders are seized up open either way your shoes (asuming you have rear drum brakes) are constantly rubbing up against the drum, definately a fire hazard. One way you can check is by jacking up the rear wheels (one at a time) DO NOT put parking brake on and try to spin the wheel. If the wheel does not move then you have what I just mentioned. If the wheel moves from 3/4 to 1 and 1/4 turn, then your rear brakes are fine. Let us know what you find out.
#76 of 128 ford escape
Apr 18, 2010 (11:46 am)
ok, jacked suv up and tried to spin wheel, but only with alot of force. Have disc brakes in back, no springs. Can't see anywhere to adjust brakes? Any other suggestions, or should I take to shop?
#77 of 128 Re: ford escape [tyates]
by vg33e power
Apr 19, 2010 (7:47 am)
Your Escape has rear disc brakes for regular braking, However, it also has separate rear brake shoes that are used for parking only. The center part of your disc brakes also acts as a small drum where the rear shoes are located.
Were you by any chance accidentally driving with your parking brake applied, even just slightly? Other then that and having the parking brake adjusted too much would cause the smoke and brake burnt smell.
#78 of 128 2007 HYBRID ESCAPE BRAKE ISSUES
May 22, 2010 (9:33 pm)
I have an all wheel drive 2007 Ford Hybrid Escape.
At 36, 600 miles the master cylinder went out. Brakes squishy, would not hold until pressed almost to the floor, very scary. Some surging and acceleration preceeded this problem. I took it in to the dealer, they said the computer said it was the master cylinder, which they replaced to the tune of $1,800. The car was just off warranty.
This sucks. I am dubious about Ford escaping liability for replacement of that cylinder and braking.
Here is my question: HOW LONG SHOULD A MASTER CYLINDER LAST?
I live in Seattle, WA., if that makes it different from South Dakota. Hilly, but not exactly like San Francisco, and in the normal course of driving my routes are pretty flat. Any info about similar issues with your Ford Escape and any basic car knowledge about how long a master cylinder should last would be very helpful! Thanks.
#79 of 128 Re: ABS and traction control light [jvdx02]
Sep 07, 2010 (10:12 am)
We just had the traction control light show up on our 2010 Ford Escape limited. Car only has 5,000 miles. We tried to turn off the light with the manual override button...nothing. Thank goodness we immediately took the car in for service the next day. When the mechanic at the dealer took if for a test drive, the wheels on the right side locked up, car lost control - no joke. They had to replace a few sensory modules: AIr Bag Restraint system module, and the restriant control module. Not sure what those mean, but don't mess around if if that light goes on and won't turn off. Apparently it was so bad when it happened, it freaked the mechanic out pretty bad. Thank god we weren't in the car with the family!
Hope this helps!
Sep 07, 2010 (10:34 am)
has anybody had trouble separating the rubber to metal brake line connection on a 2005 ford escape/mazda tribute? the front passenger side line blew, so we removed the line from the caliper, removed the spring and loosened the strut bolt to release the line, then removed the spring and loosened the rubber to metal line fitting, but we can not separate them, any tricks? or maybe we missed a step? any feedback would be appreciated. thanks 2.3l, auto, fwd, 105k
#81 of 128 Re: brake line [jmeising]
Sep 07, 2010 (11:17 am)
You should just be able to pull off brake line after removing the horse shoe locking clip. Perhaps a few twists to break the seal between the rubber hose and the metal line.