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Sedans Lincoln Town Car Lincoln Town Car Electrical Problems
124 messages, Last post on Dec 05, 2009 at 8:09 PM
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I have a 95 Lincoln Town car. My brake light is on, telling me that the Brake Res. is low. Fill it back up and the light goes out. The Master cylinder is leaking slightly at the front area under a rubber dust cover, there is a large nut behind it. I do not know what this area is, maybe an adjusting screw? I asssume there is a seal in this area that hopefully can be changed without removing the master Cylinder. Can anyone tell me if they have had this problem and what can be done to fix it? Thank you RV |
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'99 Lincoln Town Car Krystal Limo - Power Locks are not working on all the doors. I did check the fuses under the dash - all fuses seemed ok. I heard it could be a modulator - not sure what or where that is. I am not exactly sure what to look for. Your help would be very appreciated Ray MyChariotLimo  yahoo.com
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Has anyone else had this? The car is a garage queen, my mother bought it after totaling out her 01 grand marquis. She drives her 95 GM unless the weather is nice. What happened was, she bought a Garmin GPS and had it plugged in for a week, then the battery on the car went bye bye. I charged it for a day, but the charge indicator was red. I left it alone for a few weeks until I found the batteries in my F350 were nearly dead from sitting and charged them up, so while I had the charger out, I decided to charge the TC again, 4 days later the charge indicator turned green again and has been since. Basically a device that doesnt use my power drained the battery, but it took 4 days to recharge it, which doesn't seem right. Does the TC use a lot of power while turned off? I know the 95 GM can drain the battery when off because the auto suspension is constantly on, but does the '07 suspension also stay on all the time? I had a 92 crown vic with the air system and that only came on with the key on.
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Replying to: acdii (Feb 18, 2009 1:49 pm) Recommend you use a Fast 10 Amp charger on the TC so as to beat the constant rate of discharge caused by various electrical powered accessories. The automatic leveling compressor on our TC doesn't need the ignition "ON" to work. Sometimes it just self starts for no obvious reason. Because we don't drive the TC frequently, I charge the battery with a 10 Amp fast charge every two weeks. My 66 Mustang goes a month between chargings due to no draining of the battery.
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Replying to: euphonium (Feb 18, 2009 8:47 pm) 10Amps it charged both batteries in my F350 Diesel in 4 hours from being so low it barely made the buzzer squawk when I put the key in. I have a trickle charger I use for my horse trailer Ebrake, I can probably set that up to keep the battery topped off since it sits. As long as I know others have had this, I wont be concerned about the battery going dead, why it took 4 days to charge, 
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Replying to: acdii (Feb 19, 2009 5:54 am) Desulfation could take up to 10 hours. |
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Ok, so here's the story. The car is a 1992. Just got it a few weeks ago. It already had some electrical issues (the locks click click click unless the lights are on, & there are other clicking noises when the car is on). Anyway, today we tried to install a radio. We plugged everything in and the radio powered up, but there was no sound. We jiggled some wires in the trunk and the radio it self was also jostled while the radio was sitting in the front seat. The wire connections did not have electrical tape on them. There was a zzzzz sound. Now, the radio doesn't power up, the clock doesn't come on and the windows wont roll up. All the fuses have been checked. A mechanic checked under the hood and said the light for the power window relay switch did not light up. We replaced the relay switch, but nothing happened. Any ideas? Is there anything we can do temporarily to get the windows to roll up?
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Replying to: beast02 (Mar 29, 2009 11:50 pm) |
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twice this week: 95 TownCar won't start. cranks and cranks but no fire. wait three to five minutes (calling for a ride) turn key and it starts like nothing was ever wrong. Here's the thing: The ignition switch feels loosey-goosey and if you don't turn it back all the way you can pull the key out and cylinder will still turn and you can start the car with no key. *** My feeling is that this starting problem might be related to the ignition cylinder and the security system. The car is a beauty, never in salt, not abused, and runs perfectly otherwise. WHAT I'D REALLY LIKE IS TO SIMPLY DISABLE THE SECURITY SYSTEM ALTOGETHER TO AVOID ANY FURTHER PROBLEMS AND HELP TO DIAGNOSE the starting problem. Is there any way I can do that? I really hate to start spending $76/hour to chase the problem as I have been to three Ford garages this week and nobody has any clue what might be wrong. And I'd really rather do it myself anyway. I trust me. Any help you may be able to give would be greatly appreciated.
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