Ford Aerostar Starting/Stalling/Idling Issues

28 messages,  Last post on Dec 22, 2012 at 9:32 PM

You are in the Ford Aerostar Forum.

What is this discussion about? Ford Aerostar, Van

#19 of 28 engine idling too high by beastnkid97

Sep 20, 2010 (1:58 pm)

I have a 97 Aerostar V6 3.0L. It is idling way tyoo high and I cannot get it to kick down. I have checked all vacuum lines for leaks and breaks. I checked the accelerator cable thinking maybe it was stuck. I don't know what else to check. any ideas?

#20 of 28 Re: intermittent starting on 1993 Ford Aerostar [barnstormer1] by dave343

Jan 14, 2011 (5:43 am)

Replying to: barnstormer1 (Jun 26, 2010 9:18 am)
I think the problem lies at the distributor. Check to see that all wires going into the distributor are in fact connecting. lead-in wires sometimes vibrate loose and are within millimeters of touching and sometimes do and sometimes not. They have to connect all the time. to check out, pull distributor cap, test the module for 12 volts at the module connect point by using an alligator clip. The process is to move the wires coming into the module at the same time viewing the voltage meter to see if the voltage gets hot and cold. It should stay hot. That is elimination one.
      Elimination two, easyier, is make sure ignition wires are not laying bare on the manifold. Sometimes (it) happens. If it bumps the manifold, what ford stands for will show up. That is when the frustration begins.
      Elimation three, is, simply check to see that the coil and condenser wires are secure.
      Elimation four, if all these things check out okay, replace the distributor module, which is highly unlikely as it starts sometimes and runs fine.
 

#21 of 28 Re: engine idling too high [beastnkid97] by dave343

Jan 14, 2011 (5:57 am)

Replying to: beastnkid97 (Sep 20, 2010 1:58 pm)
I think you might have a forign object under the lip of the throttle actuator. When you step on the gas peddle, a cable pulls on a semi-circular arrangement on your engine designed to givie it more gas or to idle it down. If, by chance, something like a leaf or an acorn or a small piece of limb should drop onto the the idle area and hold the accelorator open, it will keep a fast idle until the is removed. Simply open the hood, rotate the throttle to open and look to see if anything is crushed in there on the throttle-stop. Take index finger and thumb, pick out the offending object, slam it on the ground, mash it with your foot, and smile.
 
 matter is removed.

#22 of 28 Re: help [elizabeth44] by dave343

Jan 14, 2011 (6:38 am)

Replying to: elizabeth44 (Mar 25, 2010 12:44 am)
It sounds like a problem like the old plymouths used to have. The old plymouths could not stand water. Dry days were fine. Rainy days, most likely the engine would miss badly or stop running if you could get it started. As you know, electricity will jump ten feet to get to water. Which brings us to your problem. I think that somehow moisture is getting into your electronics like the distributor cap, or on your wires or around your plugs. I'd start with the distributor cap.
 
  The easiest approach is to put on a pot of coffee, then get an extension cord and a hair dryer. Place the dryer so as it blows hot air onto the distributor and wires. Go back in the house and drink your coffee. This allows the dryer to dry out any moisture that may have accumulated. Give it twenty minutes.
 
If you don't want to do that get a can of spray-dry and spray the cap inside and out and then give it a try. Or, hang a light bulb, about 60 watts, over the wires and distributor. Caution that you do not lay bulb on engine parts or on plastic, especially if there is a strong smell of gasoline etc, just common sense things. Be sure to plug in light and see that it is burning, maybe a better word would be lit. Be sure not to light up anything else.

#23 of 28 Re: help [dave343] by aerostardriver

Jan 19, 2011 (8:31 pm)

Replying to: dave343 (Jan 14, 2011 6:38 am)
I had the same problem. 1995 Aerostar. It snowed and rained and my car would not start. It cranks up but no start.
 
Today, I took out the distributer cap off. Inside the cap the "teeth" were rusted. I took sand paper and got rid of the rust. I used sand paper on the rotor as well. I cleaned until all the metal peaces were silver looking (cap and rotor). I placed the rotor and the distributor cap back and it worked. At first I could not start just with the ignition key. I had my father use the helper from the engine and the car started. And now, it starts just fine with only the key.
 
So if you Aerostar cranks up due to rain, moisture...
1. Open the distributer cap
2. Clean the "teeth" with sand paper inside the cap
3. Clean the rotor with sand paper
4. Put everything back the way it was.
 
Don't unplug the cables. Check this video as well. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nKELjcqT-oM
 
Mechanics were telling me to replace the cap and wires... which would cost around $40 cap and wires plus $70 labor. I don't think you need to buy a new cap. Just remove the rust with sand paper.
 
Getting to the distributer cap is tricky. From inside the car. There is a peace you can take off right under the radio. As soon as you open, you can see the distributer cap. Placing the "under radio cover" back is tricky as well. You need to push from inside the car with you hands, and from under the hood with a 4' stick (I used the back of a broomstick). Push both at the same time until the cover fits back in place. For this you need two people.
 
Hope this helps.

#24 of 28 trouble starting 97 aerostar- ignition trouble by alex129

Apr 22, 2011 (8:00 am)

Can somebody help me? My 97 aerostar makes a click sound when i try to start it, if i move the shifter, or shift lever, back or forward a little it will start but the problem seems to be getting worse every time, is it the switch?, or is there a false contact somewhere inside the column? Thanx for any info you can share. Alex

#25 of 28 Re: help [aerostardriver] by alex129

Apr 22, 2011 (1:36 pm)

Replying to: aerostardriver (Jan 19, 2011 8:31 pm)
thanx for posting, but my van has a different problem; it doesnt even crank up, it sounds as if the battery cables were loose, but they are tight. Every time, if i move a little the shift lever (maybe half an inch forward or backward) , it cranks and starts without a problem while the shifter is in "P" or in "N". I dont know if the problem is with the ignition switch, or is there any other device that is not letting the current go from the switch to the starter so that it cranks up when i turn the key.

#26 of 28 97 Ford Aerostar 4.0 Rough idle, stalling and weird sound ? by andemon30

Jan 11, 2012 (9:09 am)

That's basically it, the title of this post is what's going on. I googled a few things and came up with the possibility of it being the IAC, I will be cleaning it. However the sound seems to be coming from around the Alternator area, not from the Intake. If anyone has any suggestions please feel free to contact me via my real email ( I check everyday ) a n d e m o n 2 6 g m a i l . c o m, thanks.

#27 of 28 1992 ford aerostar van by bandytune

Nov 11, 2012 (1:58 pm)

it was running just fine, we just got it, it started to stall on deceleration, we thought it might be low on gas that seemed to make it better, it just got us home though, now it wont start, we changed the fuel filter, charged the battery and even changed the battery cords, but it still will not start, we have no idea what to do next, like i said it was running just fine? ant help would be great

#28 of 28 Aerostar water temp gauge by goguddy

Dec 22, 2012 (9:32 pm)

The temp gauge is fluctuating while driving and idling. All fluid levels and oil are good.
 
No apparent signs of overheating. is it the thermostat? How to replace?
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