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2000 Chevy Blazer ZR2 Turning Problems

24 messages,  Last post on Aug 26, 2009 at 8:06 AM

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#22 of 24 Re: 2000 blazer wont start [mjgpc5] by gb_stewart Jul 20, 2008 (2:51 pm)
Replying to: mjgpc5 (Jul 16, 2008 6:45 am) Sit in the vehicle with the ignition off. Make sure the fan is also off so it is quite. Close the doors and be ready to listen. When you turn the ignition to the ON position, you should hear the Fuel Pump prime the fuel line for about 3 seconds then shut off....If that is not happening, check the fuses to the fuel pump. Or just behind the intake manifold is a small plastic cap on the fuel line...(it runs straight back away from the center of the engine on its way to the tank)...take off the cap and press your fingernail into the center (like a tire valve) and release the fuel pressure. Then repeat the ignition thing to see if the pump re-charges the fuel line. If so, consider replacing the In-Line fuel pump. If still no sound from the rear of the vehicle when you first turn the ignition on, consider replacing the fuel pump. Good Luck Glenn
#23 of 24 2000 Blazer turning problem-ABS hub sensor by deerisland Aug 26, 2009 (6:10 am)
I also just bought a used one with 74,000 miles which does the same thing. Took it to the dealer and they diagnosed a defective hub sensor. Said it reads the speed of the tires incorrectly and reacts as though you are sliding on ice. They are "willing" to replace it today for $778. According to some other websites a high quality part for this is about $170 at Auto Zone and it is a 3-4 hour job at home.   Has anyone ever replaced a hub sensor?
#24 of 24 Dealerships by duntov Aug 26, 2009 (8:06 am)
Never take a car to a dealership if it is out of manufacturer's warranty. Although a dealershiop is "willing" to repair a older car, they discourage walk-in customers with older cars by giving them a "courtesy" price on the work. That is because they have all they can do just keeping their new cars running under the manufacturer's warranty. Many independent auto repair shops are also reluctant to do work on older cars that may cost more than the car is worth. If the customer decides the repair cost is too high after the work is done, the car repair shop is stuck with a car they cannot sell for enough money to pay for the cost of the work. I have even heard of independent auto repair shops asking for a deposit before they work on older cars.   That is about the right price AutoZone quoted you, depending on the brand. It is for the front wheel, 4WD, 5-lug bolts, 27-spline hub/bearing/sensor/reluctor wheel/ pigtail and connector assembly. BCA / National #513124....$132 Timken #513124... $113 ACDelco FW127...$234   There are cheaper ones available on e-bay but avoid those because they are inferior off shore products and may only last a few months.   The only specialized tool you will need is a bearing puller and 3 or 4 hours at home is about right.The new car dealership gave you a courtesy bid that included an extra $278 to cover the "take it somewhere else" cost..

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