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2000 Chevy Blazer ZR2 Turning Problems

24 messages,  Last post on Aug 26, 2009 at 8:06 AM

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What is this discussion about? Chevrolet Blazer, GMC Jimmy, SUV

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#17 of 24 Re: 2000 Chevy Blazer Passenger Side Door Panel issues and power window mal [steve_] by jlflemmons Mar 28, 2008 (7:51 am)
Replying to: steve_ (Mar 27, 2008 9:16 pm) Catching up on messages here.   Definitely use a meter or test light to see if you are getting power to the motor. The switch is very easy to change, and is also available from s10warehouse.   I promise I don't work for or get a kick-back from those guys, but with the price of dealer parts I figure any time I find a 'good deal' I am going to spread the word. Replies to this message: robert3408 (Mar 28, 2008 7:57 am) jlflemmons (Mar 28, 2008 10:55 am)
#18 of 24 Re: 2000 Chevy Blazer Passenger Side Door Panel issues and power window mal by robert3408 Mar 28, 2008 (7:57 am)
Replying to: jlflemmons (Mar 28, 2008 7:51 am) Thanks again for the info. Well if S10 warehouse is a good deal I can understand the need to want to pass that along to people. Perhaps they should have you working for them. You definitely seem to know what you're talking about and where to find parts at a reasonable price. Which has always been very important to me when buying anything. Replies to this message: jlflemmons (Mar 28, 2008 10:55 am)
#19 of 24 Re: 2000 Chevy Blazer Passenger Side Door Panel issues and power window mal [robert3408] by jlflemmons Mar 28, 2008 (10:55 am)
Replying to: robert3408 (Mar 28, 2008 7:57 am) When I bought my '02 xTreme I was surprised to find out it didn't have remote keyless entry. Had to be an oversight on the part of whoever did the original order. Anyway, the receiver was $100 from the dealer, $75 wholesale, and $11 from s10W. The keyfobs were about $60 from the dealer, $45 wholesale. Found them at chipkeys.com for $24 each.   So, by doing a little research I was able to install the remote keyless entry for $59 with two key fobs. The dealer had to "tell" the computer that the vehicle now had RKE, but since I am a regular customer for some maintenance items, they did it for free.
#20 of 24 2000 blazer wont start by mjgpc5 Jul 16, 2008 (6:45 am)
My blazer wont start it is getting a yellow spark replaced the plugs and wires, distibutor and rotor even replaced the ignition coils still wont start. it acts like it wants to but wont where should i go from here Replies to this message: gb_stewart (Jul 20, 2008 2:51 pm)
#21 of 24 Re: 2000 Chevy Blazer ZR2 Turning Problems [kennyu05] by gb_stewart Jul 20, 2008 (2:45 pm)
Replying to: kennyu05 (Feb 03, 2007 9:51 pm) The front wheel overall width is wider than the back wheels on the ZR2. look from rear to front along the side(standing at the rear of the vehicle looking along its side), and you will see this. This can cause a tracking glitch. Also, be aware that if the vehicle is squirly on the freeway then the issue may actually be with how the vehicle was aligned. It is a different setting than a normal blazer (called an XZ). The front wheels should be slightly toed out (sorta like a person standing heels together), this helps the vehicle hold its place on the road. You may actually be able to see this when you sight the vehicle from rear to front along the side...at any rate it should not toe in. As for hopping in a parking lot...mine sqeels and thats fine...just don't put the vehicle in 4x4 on pavement...it will destroy the drive shaft in the front...hense the hopping when in 4x4 is normal because something has to give as the outside wheels turn faster than the inside.
#22 of 24 Re: 2000 blazer wont start [mjgpc5] by gb_stewart Jul 20, 2008 (2:51 pm)
Replying to: mjgpc5 (Jul 16, 2008 6:45 am) Sit in the vehicle with the ignition off. Make sure the fan is also off so it is quite. Close the doors and be ready to listen. When you turn the ignition to the ON position, you should hear the Fuel Pump prime the fuel line for about 3 seconds then shut off....If that is not happening, check the fuses to the fuel pump. Or just behind the intake manifold is a small plastic cap on the fuel line...(it runs straight back away from the center of the engine on its way to the tank)...take off the cap and press your fingernail into the center (like a tire valve) and release the fuel pressure. Then repeat the ignition thing to see if the pump re-charges the fuel line. If so, consider replacing the In-Line fuel pump. If still no sound from the rear of the vehicle when you first turn the ignition on, consider replacing the fuel pump. Good Luck Glenn
#23 of 24 2000 Blazer turning problem-ABS hub sensor by deerisland Aug 26, 2009 (6:10 am)
I also just bought a used one with 74,000 miles which does the same thing. Took it to the dealer and they diagnosed a defective hub sensor. Said it reads the speed of the tires incorrectly and reacts as though you are sliding on ice. They are "willing" to replace it today for $778. According to some other websites a high quality part for this is about $170 at Auto Zone and it is a 3-4 hour job at home.   Has anyone ever replaced a hub sensor?
#24 of 24 Dealerships by duntov Aug 26, 2009 (8:06 am)
Never take a car to a dealership if it is out of manufacturer's warranty. Although a dealershiop is "willing" to repair a older car, they discourage walk-in customers with older cars by giving them a "courtesy" price on the work. That is because they have all they can do just keeping their new cars running under the manufacturer's warranty. Many independent auto repair shops are also reluctant to do work on older cars that may cost more than the car is worth. If the customer decides the repair cost is too high after the work is done, the car repair shop is stuck with a car they cannot sell for enough money to pay for the cost of the work. I have even heard of independent auto repair shops asking for a deposit before they work on older cars.   That is about the right price AutoZone quoted you, depending on the brand. It is for the front wheel, 4WD, 5-lug bolts, 27-spline hub/bearing/sensor/reluctor wheel/ pigtail and connector assembly. BCA / National #513124....$132 Timken #513124... $113 ACDelco FW127...$234   There are cheaper ones available on e-bay but avoid those because they are inferior off shore products and may only last a few months.   The only specialized tool you will need is a bearing puller and 3 or 4 hours at home is about right.The new car dealership gave you a courtesy bid that included an extra $278 to cover the "take it somewhere else" cost..

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