- #15 of 22
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Re: 2000 Chevy Blazer Passenger Side Door Panel issues and power window mal
by robert3408
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Mar 27, 2008 (8:40 pm)
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Replying to: jlflemmons (Mar 27, 2008 8:15 pm)
I am not hearing any sound from the door panel at all.
It seems as if the motor is probably dead.
Thanks again for your help
Robert
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- #16 of 22
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Re: 2000 Chevy Blazer Passenger Side Door Panel issues and power window mal [robert3408]
by steve_ HOST
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Mar 27, 2008 (10:16 pm)
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Replying to: robert3408 (Mar 27, 2008 8:40 pm)
Well, I'm not much good at this stuff, but my driver's side window switch carbons up every couple of years on my van. When the switch quits, you don't hear the motor at all. So the motor may be ok, just not getting power.
The faint grinding sound about a week ago does sound like the motor gave up the ghost though.
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- #17 of 22
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Re: 2000 Chevy Blazer Passenger Side Door Panel issues and power window mal [steve_]
by jlflemmons
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Mar 28, 2008 (8:51 am)
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Replying to: steve_ (Mar 27, 2008 10:16 pm)
Catching up on messages here.
Definitely use a meter or test light to see if you are getting power to the motor. The switch is very easy to change, and is also available from s10warehouse.
I promise I don't work for or get a kick-back from those guys, but with the price of dealer parts I figure any time I find a 'good deal' I am going to spread the word.
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- #18 of 22
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Re: 2000 Chevy Blazer Passenger Side Door Panel issues and power window mal
by robert3408
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Mar 28, 2008 (8:57 am)
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Replying to: jlflemmons (Mar 28, 2008 8:51 am)
Thanks again for the info.
Well if S10 warehouse is a good deal I can understand the need to want to pass that along to people. Perhaps they should have you working for them. You definitely seem to know what you're talking about and where to find parts at a reasonable price.
Which has always been very important to me when buying anything.
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- #19 of 22
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Re: 2000 Chevy Blazer Passenger Side Door Panel issues and power window mal [robert3408]
by jlflemmons
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Mar 28, 2008 (11:55 am)
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Replying to: robert3408 (Mar 28, 2008 8:57 am)
When I bought my '02 xTreme I was surprised to find out it didn't have remote keyless entry. Had to be an oversight on the part of whoever did the original order. Anyway, the receiver was $100 from the dealer, $75 wholesale, and $11 from s10W. The keyfobs were about $60 from the dealer, $45 wholesale. Found them at chipkeys.com for $24 each.
So, by doing a little research I was able to install the remote keyless entry for $59 with two key fobs. The dealer had to "tell" the computer that the vehicle now had RKE, but since I am a regular customer for some maintenance items, they did it for free.
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- #20 of 22
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2000 blazer wont start
by mjgpc5
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Jul 16, 2008 (7:45 am)
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My blazer wont start it is getting a yellow spark replaced the plugs and wires, distibutor and rotor even replaced the ignition coils still wont start. it acts like it wants to but wont where should i go from here
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- #21 of 22
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Re: 2000 Chevy Blazer ZR2 Turning Problems [kennyu05]
by gb_stewart
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Jul 20, 2008 (3:45 pm)
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Replying to: kennyu05 (Feb 03, 2007 10:51 pm)
The front wheel overall width is wider than the back wheels on the ZR2. look from rear to front along the side(standing at the rear of the vehicle looking along its side), and you will see this. This can cause a tracking glitch. Also, be aware that if the vehicle is squirly on the freeway then the issue may actually be with how the vehicle was aligned. It is a different setting than a normal blazer (called an XZ). The front wheels should be slightly toed out (sorta like a person standing heels together), this helps the vehicle hold its place on the road. You may actually be able to see this when you sight the vehicle from rear to front along the side...at any rate it should not toe in.
As for hopping in a parking lot...mine sqeels and thats fine...just don't put the vehicle in 4x4 on pavement...it will destroy the drive shaft in the front...hense the hopping when in 4x4 is normal because something has to give as the outside wheels turn faster than the inside.
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- #22 of 22
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Re: 2000 blazer wont start [mjgpc5]
by gb_stewart
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Jul 20, 2008 (3:51 pm)
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Replying to: mjgpc5 (Jul 16, 2008 7:45 am)
Sit in the vehicle with the ignition off. Make sure the fan is also off so it is quite. Close the doors and be ready to listen. When you turn the ignition to the ON position, you should hear the Fuel Pump prime the fuel line for about 3 seconds then shut off....If that is not happening, check the fuses to the fuel pump. Or just behind the intake manifold is a small plastic cap on the fuel line...(it runs straight back away from the center of the engine on its way to the tank)...take off the cap and press your fingernail into the center (like a tire valve) and release the fuel pressure. Then repeat the ignition thing to see if the pump re-charges the fuel line. If so, consider replacing the In-Line fuel pump. If still no sound from the rear of the vehicle when you first turn the ignition on, consider replacing the fuel pump.
Good Luck
Glenn
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