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Chevy Camaro Maintenance and Repair

45 messages, Last post on Nov 05, 2009 at 12:57 PM
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Share questions and tips on doing your own repairs and maintenance on your Camaro.
| My 1995 Z28's T-top lever(s) (both sides) have become stiff. I'm worried about breaking something when placing them on or removing them from the car. What's the best lubricant to use to loosen things up without causing damage? Would GUNK Liquid Wrench Penetrating oil be right for the job? | |
| I own an '86 Camaro and recently tarted to have a problem with the door locks. Initially, the drivers side door opened normally but when I went to shut it,the latch mechanism (a sort of "U" shaped rotating part) would not turn to engage the pin (i.e. let the open "U" over the pin) on the door frame...so the latch just bangs against the pin. Next, I violated my usual principle of "if it aint broke.... etc", I played with the passenger door and, to my dismay, managed to rotate the "U" part of the latch backward so that now it also is stuck in a position where that door also won't shut. If anyone (even another GM model owner) has any ideas how to free up this mechanism - preferably w/o disassembling the door trim - I would be eternally grateful. | |
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Hi all, Just bought a 1992 Camaro RS 3.1 v6, and am going to have to some serious work to it. Thought I'd join the forum for tips and advice as I go....i'm the purest of definitions of "backyard mechanic" so any and all advice is welcome. Question 1 for the day: The car was apparently in an accident at some time, and the front end is shifted approx 3/4 of and inch to the right. What's the best way to replace / repair this. can it even be straightened out? My understanding of the build is with the uni-body frame, I'm probably just looking at fender supports. (The engine and components except for the radiator appear perfectly in line, right where they should be....) Suggestions?!?
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Replying to: ut_camaro_guy (Sep 06, 2009 9:25 pm) If the car can be aligned, then your problems are strictly sheet metal, and strange as it sounds, some basic wrench work and a short handled 3 lb sledge hammer will do the job---presuming you know better as to not start hammering on plastic or thin metal bracing, but rather only on main, hidden, structural supports such as bumper braces or radiator sub-framing. Another alternative is to rent a portable hydraulic tool that has attachments for bending, pushing, etc. this way and that, and is able to get into small spaces.
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Sep 07, 2009 7:05 am) Thanks for the info! Now I'm a bit nervous, but still optimistic. As best as I can by eyeballing it, the underframe itself appears to be in a straight line, so I'm hoping it's as you said, sheet metal, a hammer, and a few new parts should do the trick. I'd hate to think that I paid for something that I'm just going to have to get rid of. I'm taking it to the shop to get an alignment this week, so I'll post and let you know the outcome..... Thanks for replying! I think I'm going to like it here! Sean |
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The car drove fine after I changed the waterpump and thermostat and the holes drove for 2 days and on the third day it started to heat up so I pulled over and let the water out waited 5 mins and then drove the car home and it stayed at 180 degrees the normal temp is between 180 and 210 can anyone tell me what to do can it be the radiator need a good clean out |
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A reporter is looking to speak to a recent buyer or a current shopper of a Chevy Camaro, Dodge Challenger Ford Mustang or Nissan 370Z . Please send your daytime phone number to ctalati Thanks, Chintan Corporate Communications Edmunds.com |
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