Last post on Sep 12, 2013 at 2:30 AM
You are in the Lincoln LS
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Lincoln LS, Engine, Sedan
#55 of 209 Re: 2000 Lincoln LS Engine over heating [eldominico]
Aug 06, 2010 (7:20 am)
I have this same problem and want to resolve it the same way you did. I have see many after market electric cooling fans for the ls and wonder if you knew the best on that would work. Also I need detailed instructions on how to replace and wire up the electric fan. Please help I am tired of constantly having to worry about the car not running right and it is a very nice car and would like to keep it if possible
#56 of 209 Re: leaking anti freeze from overflow [jules_urban]
Aug 08, 2010 (4:31 pm)
Have 2001 Lincoln LS I'm having the same problem. After bleeding & filling the reservoir I have change the reservoir once before this is my second. Had a crack on the bottom of the tank. Is there something I'm missing. I think when I turn on the A/C it doesn't hold the Pressure and it cracks. need help send me email
#57 of 209 Linlcon ls v6
Sep 07, 2010 (10:10 am)
I have a Lincoln ls v6 2001 with 115000 miles. Heres whats going on with my car.
The check engine light is on.
the air bag light lights up flashes a couple of times and then stays on.
Then the oil light comes up when the car is on the regular temperature, whenever im slowing down the oil light comes up, then when i accelerate it goes away.
Then it has been overheating sometimes. last sunday overheated, week before that too, then today tuesday did it again. On sunday i left it cooling for a couple of hours then it was normal, the fans work but when it overheates the fans arent working.
Could this all be because of the oil pressure that is too low
' if so how can i fix it? any tips on this would be appreciate it
#58 of 209 Re: Linlcon ls v6 [jaime007]
Sep 07, 2010 (11:00 am)
Is the check engine light flashing, or solid? You've got a v-6? Pull the OBD code.
The air bag light is likely a bad clock spring (behind the steering wheel). When you unplug a component of the air bag system, it trips the light to tell you to recalibrate it, which is a simple process done with a computer at the dealer (about $90). But if you haven't unplugged any component, it is likely a worn connection in the clock spring. The clock spring powers up everything in your steering wheel, including your air bag, while still enabling you to turn the wheel round and round (if they just rans wires, the wires would twist and break). If there is a bad connection, its the equivalent of unplugging the steering wheel air bag every time you turn the vehicle. So if you just get the system recalibrated, it'll trip the light again leaving the dealer's lot. There is no code to identify this problem. Anything else not working on your steering wheel (cruise control? radio control? horn?)? If so, it's defintiely the clock spring. They're about $80 and you need a wheel puller, but it's a simple job. Ford/Lincoln/Mercuries are famous for weak clock springs.
See my prior post regarding my experience with the overheating. The degas bottle (overflow tank) has a design flaw that cause a crack along a seam, which lets air into the system and causes antifreeze to leak out at higher RPMS (when you're on the highway and won't notice). Air acts as a blockage and causes overheating. Others have cursed the hydraulic fans as constantly failing/inconsistent, and replaced them with electric ones. I haven't had that issue. A new degas bottle and a system fill/air purge and I've been fine for another 20k so far. The degas bottle is pulled through the driver's side wheel well (remove the wheel and wheelwell cover). Check it for visible signs of cracking. If not, you've likely got the fan problem.
The oil issue-potentially very serious. Assuming you're sure your oil is full, the correct viscosity and fresh, I'd replace the oil pressure switch (likely near the oil filter housing) first. It's relatively cheap and always a good one to keep fresh. If the problem recurs, your oil pump could be failing. That could increase friction and contribute to an overheating problem, but with a failing oil pump, overheating would be the least of your worries.
#59 of 209 Re: Happster
Sep 07, 2010 (11:18 am)
yeah the check engine light is solid, which could be a sensor or anything, im pulling the code later today or tomorrow.
The problem i have with the fan is that it stops working all of the sudden, and i cant get it to start, even with the a/c on, but then how come sometimes i turn on my car and the stupid fan is working right? Everytime the car randomly decides to overheat i check the fan and the fan has stopped.
Well i took it to a mechanic and he had told me that the oil presure was low, but he didnt do any computer test or anything, and the guy before that one told me a need the whole cooling system new ( which he was wrong since my cooling system works but something is messing with the reaction of it)
for the oil, i used a bottle of Lucas today which helps with the lubrication of the oil and see if it goes away. I will be getting it check by another person see what they say.
Sep 08, 2010 (9:45 am)
well today unpluged the fan , theres a connection down there hiding by the pump and put it back and magically the fans are working perfectly and even the oil light disappeared. For now its working perfectly idk if maybe the connection there was dirty or something
#61 of 209 2003 LS 3.9L
Sep 08, 2010 (10:10 am)
For a few months now, I've had an issue with the car overheating. I've never seen smoke or anything, but every now and again, the temp gauge will go to "H". Normally, if I set it on cruise control, it'll eventually go back down. In the event I'm in stop-and-go traffic, it will reduce engine pressure. At that time, I'll pull over, turn the car off for a few minutes, then restart. It'll be fine for the rest of the trip. I finally had it hooked up to the code reader and got the following codes - P0053 (Heat & Oxygen Heater Resistance Bank 1 Sensor 1), P0153 (Oxygen Sensor Bank 2 Sensor 1), P1299 (Society of Automotive Engineers Engine Over Temp Condition), and P1295 (Oxygen Sensor Biased/Stuck Lean Bank 1 Sensor 1). I was told I needed to replace the two oxygen sensors up front.
So, when I took my vehicle to Pep Boys for brake service today, I told them I also wanted the sensors replaced, if they had them in stock. They ran the diagnostic and now the guy is telling me that CO2 was detected in the cooling system and I need to have my head gaskets replaced. He then said it would be upwards of $2500 to fix and referred me to the Lincoln dealer. Is this accurate?
#62 of 209 Re: Well [jaime007]
Sep 08, 2010 (10:24 am)
Cool. Those fans are hydraulic. Maybe a bad connection was keeping the fan from working and signaling low hyradulic fluid, which in turn might tripping the oil light you're seeing??? I don't know, but if it ain't broke now, don't fix it. Good luck.
#63 of 209 annother opinion
Sep 08, 2010 (10:27 am)
if i were you i would get another opinion, i had my car looked by 2 people who none of them told me anything related to my problem, if u kno someone who knows a mechanic who they can trust
#64 of 209 Re: 2003 LS 3.9L [dclark24]
Sep 08, 2010 (10:41 am)
It's possibly, but not likely. You'd need a narrow breach in the head gasket between a coolant journal and a cylinder, without it affecting nearby oil journals or anything else. A blown head gasket is rarely so particular or localized, meaning you'd find antifreeze in your oil too (it'd look milky/filmy) or antifreeze would leak from the head gasket onto the ground. Plus, if there was such a breach, you'd certainly be burning coolant (white smooke and/or a sweet smell/taste at the exhaust) in the cylinder. It's not a one way process-if there is a breach between an anti-freeze journal and a cylinder, not only would CO2 get into the antifreeze upon cylinder fire, but antifreeze would also be sucked into the cylinder on the compression stroke, and then burn upon ignition. You'd lose horsepower. You'd likely have a flashing p300 code (cylinder misfire) as the anti-freeze douses the igntiion process. Are you losing coolant?
I'll tell you what I tell everyone-remove the inner (driver's) fenderwall and remove the degas bottle. Check the seams for signs of cracking. If it's cracked, replace it and that will likely solve all of your problems. When I say that air gets into the system when the degas bottle is cracked, its the air that's under your hood, which contains CO2.
And it's also possible that Pep Boys is lying to you. Find a mechanic you know and trust. That's how I got my Lincoln-a friend owned it and brought it to a stranger's shop for an overheating issue. The mechanic said the the heads were blown and offered him $500 for the car, which was MINT otherwise and fully loaded. I had expressed interest in the car so he offered it to me for $500. Then I drained the oil (clean), read the blogs and found the degas bottle was cracked. I replaced it and its been running like a top for 20k now. The mechanic was trying to screw my buddy. And yes, I made it up to him...