- #30 of 39
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Re: 2000 Lincoln LS Engine over heating [akirby]
by rgnmstr
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Nov 05, 2008 (8:16 pm)
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Replying to: akirby (Oct 03, 2008 8:37 am)
Where is the cooling system bleed screw located and how do you bleed thew system? Engine running cold or hot? Thanks.
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- #31 of 39
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Re: 2000 Lincoln LS Engine over heating [rgnmstr]
by akirby
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Nov 06, 2008 (5:58 am)
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Replying to: rgnmstr (Nov 05, 2008 8:16 pm)
Don't remember for sure but it's somewhere near the top of the engine - at the highest point. May be in one of the heater hoses. This will cause an air bubble full of steam that periodically passes by the temp sensor which causes it to think it's running hot. The steam is under pressure and is hotter than 212F. I don't remember the bleed procedure.
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- #32 of 39
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Re: 2000 Lincoln LS Engine over heating [akirby]
by rgnmstr
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Nov 06, 2008 (8:11 am)
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Replying to: akirby (Nov 06, 2008 5:58 am)
Thanks for the reply. I located it but I guess I'll keep looking for the correct procedure to bleed the system.
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- #33 of 39
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Re: 2000 Lincoln LS Engine over heating [rgnmstr]
by kevingd
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Nov 16, 2008 (5:58 pm)
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Replying to: rgnmstr (Nov 06, 2008 8:11 am)
I am trying to find out if I am having similar problems and want to see if draining, flushing and adding new coolant fixes this.
Can someone specifically say where the Lincoln LS's drain plug is for the radiator? And where is the radiator in the engine?
thank you.
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- #34 of 39
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Re: 2000 Lincoln LS Engine over heating [rgnmstr]
by BigButtons
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Dec 01, 2008 (1:08 pm)
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Replying to: rgnmstr (Nov 06, 2008 8:11 am)
BLEEDING THE COOLING SYSTEM
Here is the procedure from the factory service manual:
1. Remove the engine fill cap.
On 3.0L engines
2. Open the engine air bleed.
On all engines
3. Open the heater air bleed.
4. Add coolant to the degas bottle allowing the system to equalize until no more coolant can be added.
On 3.0L engines
5. Close the engine air bleed when coolant begins to escape.
On all engines
6. Replace the degas bottle cap.
On 3.9L engines
CAUTION: Care must be taken to ensure the accessory drive belt does not become
contaminated with engine coolant.
7. Add as much coolant as possible to the engine fill. The heater air bleed will remain open.
8. Replace the engine fill cap.
On all engines
9. NOTE: The heater air bleed remains open.
Start the engine and turn the heater to MAX position.
10. Close the heater air bleed when a steady stream of coolant comes from it, during engine idle.
11. Allow the engine to idle for five minutes, add coolant to the degas bottle as needed to maintain the
cold fill MAX mark.
12. Reopen the heater air bleed to release any entrapped air and close again.
On 3.9L engines
13. Maintain engine speed of 2,000 rpm for 3-5 minutes or until hot air comes from the heater.
14. Return to idle and verify hot air is still coming from the heater.
On 3.0L engines
15. Maintain engine speed of 1,500 rpm for 3-5 minutes or until hot air comes from the heater.
16. Return to idle and verify hot air is still coming from the heater.
On all engines
17. Set the heater temperature setting to 24°C (75°F ) and allow the vehicle to idle for two minutes.
18. Shut the engine off and allow to cool.
19. After the engine has cooled, add coolant to the degas bottle to bring the level to the cold fill MAX
mark.
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- #35 of 39
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Re: 2000 Lincoln LS Engine over heating [BigButtons]
by Happster
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Jan 01, 2009 (5:19 pm)
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Replying to: BigButtons (Dec 01, 2008 1:08 pm)
I just recently had to refill the coolant system (had to replace the infamously crappy degas bottle) and still can't get heat at idle. I get heat when revving the engine up to 2000 rpms during the bleeding procedure you posted, but once it goes back down to idle I get nothing. Note how the directions say "check to see if you get heat at idle" but do not say what to do if you don't. I assumed I'd just need to go through the motions again, and did x 3, but still no heat at idle or during normal operating conditions. Sounds like low coolant, but after running it and letting it cool x 2, the degas bottle is at the right level. Sounds like air in the system too, but what else can I do to bleed it? Thanks,
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- #36 of 39
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Re: Radiator upgrade [akirby]
by gghhjj
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Mar 30, 2009 (6:39 pm)
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Replying to: akirby (Jun 06, 2008 7:38 am)
Radiator problem is more than possible... There is an inside leak. The engine coolant goes in the transmission fluid when pressure builds up. No appearant leak, but look at the transmission fluid (you can look at it by the tiny reservoir at the passenger side of the engine. just remove the screen to take a sample). Orange and cloudy? You found your problem. Change rad, flush trany fluid completly.
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- #37 of 39
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Re: Radiator upgrade [akirby]
by vette176
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Aug 31, 2009 (4:45 am)
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Replying to: akirby (Jun 06, 2008 7:38 am)
I have had my 2000 LS since new and have had overheating problems the last few years. I took it to every dealership in town and they would all say something different. Finally, a friend of mine that owns a repair shop said let's put an electric fan in it and since then, I have not had a problem. He used a jeep electric fan that fits perfect and disengaged the factory fan from hydraulic system. You can still see the pump turn but not connected to anything. Funny how ford only used this stupid system for a few years and changed over to an electric system. Mechanic used an empty slot in fuse box to give power to fan and fan only draws 1.2 volts. Fan runs entire time key is on or motor running. He also put a new thermostat in and what a difference car has been. The fix cost me 403.00 dollars fan was $203.00. I have been throwing money at this car for 2 years trying to fix problem changing solenoids, sensors, pump, caps, overflow bottle and all it needed was electric fan! need details email me lvs24 aol.com i will tell you exactly how to do it. goodluck!
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- #38 of 39
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Re: Radiator upgrade [vette176]
by akirby
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Aug 31, 2009 (5:25 am)
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Replying to: vette176 (Aug 31, 2009 4:45 am)
The hydraulic fan was required on the early models due to a lack of available power. The fixed it in 2003. It's probably fine on yours - the mfr has to account for every possible device being on simultaneously and they have design specs to meet because of that. I would be careful about running the lights, defroster, stereo and seat heaters at the same time though.
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- #39 of 39
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Re: 2000 Lincoln LS Engine over heating [zrhino45]
by johnny61
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Oct 15, 2009 (12:03 pm)
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Replying to: zrhino45 (Feb 03, 2007 3:29 pm)
my 2000 lincoln ls v6 overheats with air condition running. the problem is the hydralic fan pump, it suppose to turn faster when a/c is on or car temp goes up and it fails. the solution is the electric actuator on the side of the pump is bad its job is to control the amount of fliud. it cost $91.00 and you will not need to remove the pump.
1) buy the actuator
2) buy a t-40 torque star male socket
3) remove the only cable attached to the pump
4) remove bolts from pump reservior and push to side
5) remove bottom fliud hose from reservior (you will need a form cup to catch fluid in pump)
6) now you have access to actuator with rachet and male star socket
7) loosen the actuator (the middle only turns)
8) screw in the new one and tighten
10 reinstall electric cable and pump hose and rebolt pump reservior
lincoln will run without running hot. caution filling the degas bottle with water may not fill the engine block, you may have to remove any large engine hose and run water directly into engine as well as degas bottle.
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