Last post on Dec 09, 2013 at 1:39 PM
You are in the Saturn S-Series
What is this discussion about?
Saturn S-Series, Auto Repair, Sedan
#230 of 238 Re: Service Engine Soon Light [darrkestangel]
Nov 26, 2011 (11:06 am)
Go to autozone and have them test in using their meter -free. could be that EGR valve needs cleaning or replaceing due to carbon biuld up on this site there directions how to clean otherwise will not pass inspection throttle body has to be cleaned too maybeput some cleaner in gas tank might do it autozone will have to erase code.
#231 of 238 Re: What are these field campaigns? [joepeterson56]
Nov 30, 2011 (5:12 pm)
If your talking about the dual overhead cam saturn S model engines known for cracking the heads?I dont know who has been telling you that i worked for saturn dealers for over 16yrs repairing saturns and havent seen that to be true.Mybe from overheating it real bad but its not common for the dual cam.Its common for the single though thats why saturn had a special extending warranty on the single cam heads.But not on the dual cams because it wasnt common.
#232 of 238 Re: What are these field campaigns? [saturntech9]
Nov 30, 2011 (5:23 pm)
I have has one of each with a cracked head. Neither was abused or over heated. I had a friend who owned an engine machine shop who was the first one to tell me they were notorious for this problem, & then I was told the same from every reconditioned head supplier I contacted. Their consenous was all saturn s series head were notorious for cracking, doesn't matter whether single or double cam, and that is why they are so hard to locate. Nothing personal, but I would believe these other sources before I would ever believe any dealer source when it comes to admitting a known problem with their vehicle line.
#233 of 238 Re: high idle and vibration [unklepaulie]
Jan 22, 2012 (7:56 pm)
Your post is kinda old, but I have a '96 SL1 that makes lots of noise on startup, esp cold. I found a lot of problems, but it is still noisy:
- Cat converter busted up; opened it up & vacuumed it out
- Hood rattle; tightened the 2 rubber bumpers in the front
- Engine mounts BOTH broken; replaced
- about 90% of all the crappy plastic fasteners are broken in the dash; tie-wrapped them down
- screws loose or missing in radio mount, other places
The thing still makes a lot of rattle, esp cold, but not as bad. I think something is up with the choke system, but don't know what to do about it.
BASICALLY, it is a cheap, old car with 190,000 miles. Its going to rattle until you put a LOT of money and work in it and then the tranny or engine will crap out.
Hope some of those ideas help.
#234 of 238 SL front whell bearing problems
Jan 31, 2013 (5:44 am)
Anyone have answers for solving a bad front wheel bearing(driver side) problem- I've gone thru 3 of them in 21k miles-the car has 117k total miles. Thanks
#235 of 238 Issues with shutting down on a '94 SL-1
May 23, 2013 (7:08 am)
A friend from work has a '94 SL1 sedan(I own a '96, so I know something about these cars) He was having an overheating issue for a few weeks, and also the check engine light was on. I checked the computer and he had 5 codes set, with the coolant temp sensor being the 1st. I told him EVERYTHING hinges on the proper temp info being relayed to the ECM. Furthermore, his temp gauge didn't work because someone convinced him that the sending unit(on his there are 2, one for the gauge and the other for the ECM) was bad and THIS was causing his trouble. So this person changed it and of course the problem still existed. To make matters worse, this clown bent the 2 prongs when he reconnected the the wire to the sensor, so the gauge STILL didn't work because it wasn't making contact! Long story short, I finally was able to look at the car this past weekend and since he had bought a new thermostat, I flushed out the block and radiator and replaced the stat. I also put the OLD gauge sending unit back(he kept the old one) and that cured that issue. But the car still was getting hot. Here, the Cooling Fan Relay fuse under the hood was bad! I swapped it with the one from the A/C(which doesn't work anyway) and the fan started when it was supposed to and thus the overheating issue is gone and so are all the codes from the ECM.
However, now the car want to stall when he brakes to a stop. The RPM's go real low and sometimes, but not ALL the time it will shut off. He says when he stops and gives it some gas it's more likely to happen. Now this DID NOT happen to me when I did all this other work as described above; when I got everything back together and solved the cooling fan problem, this car ran remarkably well for a car with nearly 180K on it. It did NOT shut down once for me. Yes, I did notice a low idle once or twice. Yesterday at work he tells me that it's happening more frequently now. What could be doing this? No engine light has come on since I cleared it. A good mechanic friend of mine told me this morning that it could have something to do with the auto trans sensor(VSS?) that when approaching a stop or just starting out and the trans kicks back into 1st gear, a faulty sensor might be the culprit. But wouldn't this set a code? What about a vacuum leak? Any suggestions anyone may have for me on this would be very helpful. Sorry for being so long-winded. Thanks and have a great day!!
#236 of 238 Addition to above story
May 24, 2013 (4:47 am)
After work last night, I scanned my friend's 94 SL to see if it had any codes stored, and all I got was a code 12 meaning all OK. Now out of the blue and in addition to what I described above, as soon as I turned the key to the "on" position to start the scan, the cooling fan started immediately! Now I know this isn't right. When I solved the overheating issue he had over the weekend by getting the cooling fan to work when the temp got hot enough(had bad relay) I figured this issue was over. When this happened to my 96 SL a few years ago in the winter, as soon as I turned the key on came the fan and the temp gauge went to 12 o'clock immediately on a cold motor. Turned out to be a bad connector because when I tapped it with my finger, the fan shut off and the gauge went to a normal setting. Did it again a couple days later and at that time I replaced the sending unit(didn't really have to) since it was in fact the connector plug at fault. Got one from a junkyard and spliced it in and have had no trouble since.
#237 of 238 Re: Loud BANG when going into reverse. please help [ekameveileb]
Nov 25, 2013 (8:23 pm)
Hey if I may ask I am starting to have the same problem with.my friends car and im a mechanic myself and I replaced the trans fluid and I had a code about the transmissiom range sensor and I changed it and im still have the same problem... I dont want to open to much of the transmissiom if I dont have too....if u may please reply ?
#238 of 238 Re: Loud BANG when going into reverse. please help [hondafun92]
Dec 09, 2013 (1:39 pm)
What are the exact code numbers you have not code descriptions?Also you replaced the selector switch?If so did you adjust it correctly when you installed it?So you have a delay bang into reverse?Which model and year do you have?