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Subaru Legacy/Outback Engine Issues

253 messages, Last post on Jul 22, 2009 at 2:29 PM
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Replying to: xwesx (May 18, 2009 10:23 am) That is interesting to hear. I was shocked when our 2005 Legacy battery failed after only 3 years. My Ford worked on the same battery for 9 years, when even the alternator failed at 5 years, and the Miata was on it's original gel cell per the markings for 13 years before it died (absolutely amazing if you ask me). I'm in San Jose so the batteries are never stressed by cold temperature extremes; when I was in MO I was generally happy to get 5 years on a battery.
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Replying to: yatesjo (May 18, 2009 1:40 pm) The replacement battery I got had very nearly double the CCAs, and it was just much easier to start it after that. Had you checked the fluid levels and added distilled water every year? I think nowadays batteries are often overlooked.
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Replying to: ateixeira (May 18, 2009 10:28 am)
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Replying to: sbcvulcan (May 19, 2009 7:42 am)
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Replying to: ateixeira (May 19, 2009 7:26 am) Yes, that is what I mean by "weak" batteries. The CCA rating on them is horrifically low. In extremely cold weather (colder than about -20F, which is common in Fairbanks), all presets on my radio, etc., would reset on my car due to the amount of juice required to start the car. It started, but the engine cranked slowly. In comparison, replacing that battery with with a 600 or higher CCA, the engine cranks quickly, without unduly stressing the battery. Now, one can add a "battery blanket" in cold climates, which will heat the battery when the car is plugged in (other heaters such as an engine block heater, oil pan heater, and transmission heater are required equipment) and nurse the battery. However, doing so only makes the driver more vulnerable to problems when the time comes that the car could not be plugged in and must be cold-started. With a good battery, no such nursing is needed. I have batteries, such as the one in my old '69 Chevy truck, that are on year ten and going strong in this climate. The stock Subaru battery just will not last that long due to the demand placed on the battery. I would much rather spend the $100 to replace it early on than find out just how long it will last, because the day it fails will inevitably be when I am at some remote location with temperatures in the "highly unpleasant" range. |
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Replying to: ateixeira (May 19, 2009 8:15 am) However, if the GT is a wagon, 2005 is the last year of that option and the only year of the turbo-GT-wagon combo, so they are a unique breed.
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Replying to: xwesx (May 19, 2009 9:31 am) 2 owners gave up on it after such low miles, though? Even if it's not a scam, that's still a red flag.
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Replying to: ateixeira (May 19, 2009 11:28 am) |
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| I have a '92 Subaru Legacy 2.2L (Automatic) that has recently had issues with the harmonic balancer. I have called around and gotten multiple prices and now am not comfortable which option to choose at this point. Most of the advise I can get is from people who know very little about Subaru's. My quotes are $318.99-69.99 and cannot seem to get an explanation to the very LARGE difference in price. I keep being told it could be a 'kit' but when I'm looking at this...it's a pulley with a rubber piece in the center. It does not seem this could be an assembly? If so would it be wise to just get the damper instead of the whole pulley? The problem has been that it will not stay tight and continues to back off of the bolt that goes into the crank shaft housing (crank shaft pulley) Now it will not still wobble a bit (so it's parked till fixed) even after being tighten. My guess is the rubber has somehow warn from one area creating an unbalance thus getting it to continue to keep backing out..now that it won't tighten (after the 3rd retighten in less than 1.5 weeks) I'm afraid I may need to also replace the bolt too..I've never done this before and know little about cars over all but any advise or direction would be GREATLY GREATLY appreciated!!!! | |
| I have a 2001 OB (4-cly, 5-spd). At present the engine bucks at moderate to hard acceleration < 2500 rpms (in any gear). --------------------------------------------------------------- ... deleted post..... --------------------------------------------------------------- Sorry for the trouble. I went back out after posting a disconnected/reconnected all spark plug wires from both coil and plugs. One of the plugs wasn't completely engaged to the plug and must have not been firing under load. Phew.... | |
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