Last post on May 23, 2013 at 8:57 AM
You are in the Jeep Cherokee and Jeep Grand Cherokee
What is this discussion about?
Jeep Grand Cherokee, Heating / Cooling, SUV
#460 of 511 Re: A/C not working at all. [blendor]
Sep 15, 2010 (4:16 pm)
my factory service manual for a 2000 jeep grand Cherokee has vacuum controlled doors for defrost and vent control the blend door controls the temp that you get out of the heater the azc system uses only electrical controls
i assume that he has the same system that my GR has where you dont have control separately pass and driver side thus the vacuum leak test vacuum line comes in on pass side just a at the bottom of the heater box should have a check valve right by the firewall inside pass compartment
#461 of 511 Re: A/C not working at all. [tuggajb]
Sep 16, 2010 (5:34 am)
Yes you are right, the MTC (Manual Temperature Control) systems do use a combination of actuator motors and vacuum controls.
Only the Limited and the Overland models have the AZC (Automatic Zone Control) systems that have all actuator motors.
#462 of 511 Re: A/C not working at all. [ckn3103]
Sep 16, 2010 (5:14 pm)
Ok. I disconnected the battery for about an hour and now the air comes through all the vents like normal. The only thing it doesn't get cool at all. The heater works fine but no cold air. Any thoughts?? Thanks
#463 of 511 Re: A/C not working at all. [ckn3103]
Sep 16, 2010 (5:32 pm)
is the ac compressor turning?
if not could be low on freon
#464 of 511 Re: A/C not working at all. [tuggajb]
Sep 16, 2010 (8:58 pm)
Yes the compressor is kicking on.
#465 of 511 blower motor resistor
Sep 17, 2010 (8:36 am)
Good morning all,
I have a quick question regarding the blower motor resistor. I have had all the problems with the vent doors, actuator motors and all other crap parts jeep puts on their vehicles....I complained to chrysler due to my dash haveing to be removed 4 times for the vent problems and chrysler paid for my final repairs minus the 100 deductible---just a suggestion to everyone else on here....call chrysler and complain....no to my current problem...yes my blower motor resister connection melted creating a bad connection for the black wire port in turn creating my newly installed vent system to not operate...i tred removing the resister but due to melted plastic I cant seem to disconnect the port....how if any way possible can i cut the plastic or disconnect the resistor motor from its connection so I can clean or cut the melted plastic to create a solid connection to the black wire terminal so my a/c system will work......any help would be greatly appreciated...thanks in advance and may all have a good weekend.....also jeep is dead set on MOPAR parts due to Jeep and mopar agreements...personally I think mopar parts suck a%$ cause I have replaced nearly every mopar interior part on my jeep...are there any other quality manufacturers for the blower motor resister in case I have to buy a new one??????
#466 of 511 Re: A/C not working at all. [ckn3103]
Sep 28, 2010 (8:21 pm)
Here is the update. I replaced the expansion valve and did a recharge myself. The air now blows cold air.... I can't believe it. Someone suggested to change that part and since it was only 26.99 i decided to give it a try. One thing, I can smell the outside air like its has an open vent. How do you know if you put too much 134a stuff? When I plugged in the gauge it was in the blue where it should be. I just want to make sure
#467 of 511 Just replaced the Resistor...
Oct 02, 2010 (4:18 pm)
My daughters 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee has the usual problem with the actuator and blendor on the passenger side, no heat. The blower stopped working completely the other day and was diagnosed as the Resistor Harness, this was replaced. Now we can hear the blower going but the air seems trapped behind the dash. This was not the case before the Resistor went ou. Why would replacing this and getting the blower to work cause the air to be trapped? The air cond works at about 30% of the power it had just the day before...Did the mechanic block or move something?
#468 of 511 ac r134 leak
Oct 06, 2010 (7:38 pm)
i have had a slow leak in r134, actually more than a slow leak, as i can top off and go through a 11oz can in 2-3 months, but thats much cheaper than repair, i have used leak detecter, could not find leak. Normal leak sealer was added, this product helps with leaks around rubber gaskets, it was no help. I found a product called super sealer which helps seal metal leaks as well. The first time i used it in summer 2009, it fixed the major leak and put it back to the old top off mode. This summer leak got bad again, i added super sealer again but it only held 3 months, so i decided to add 2 cans of super sealer this time, which my not have been smart. After adding, and then topping off r134 to bring to 45psi , it would not charge past 35psi, i kept adding, but gauge went no higher. I then drove in max mode for half hour, ac started blowing warm, compresser cycling. I figured it had leaked out and low pressure switch was doing its job. I put gauge back on, it was now 40 psi when compressor on, but when it cycled off and kicked back on as soon as it turned back on, gauge went north towards 100psi, where it would then kick compressor off again as if there is a high pressure switch also. Gauge would now head down again and kick compressor back on and it would stabilize for a while before going high and turning compressor off. I figured i had put to much super sealer gunk in. I let some r134 out through gauge, and it was more stable and cold except when first started and ac turns on, it now blows leak detecter and super sealer gunk out through a line on driver side of engine on initial turn on, then stops, same side as compressor but low and toward rear of engine. it blows this gunk out onto hot exhaust pipe causing lots of smoke. As soon as it burns off, all is well, as it stops blowing out in a few seconds. So now i know the area the leak is in, this must be a pipe returning hot r134 to compresor, as opposed to lines where r134 is added. I am hoping eventually i will seal this leak, once it blows enough of the sealer through the leak, each start up is less worse than one before it, and pressure on refill gauge is holding stable now. My question, what have i done to inner workings of system by over adding this super sealer, it says it does not harm,but 2 cans are not meant to be added at once. If i get the leaking line replaced, will this much super sealer in lines mess it up or will the process of evacuating lines clean it out? this sounds like i messed it up, but i did get 2 additional summers out of a high mileage 1999 JGC for minimal cost, wondering if now that leak has been spotted as a result, if simple repair will be good or has this sealer made a low cost repair impossible? Short term, i now have cold air and smoke at start up is getting less as excess sealer seems to blow out through leak at a slower amount on each start. Any advice?
#469 of 511 Re: Just replaced the Resistor... [eq9z]
Oct 07, 2010 (6:51 am)
I had my resistor motor and harness replaced the other day and the same thing was happening to me. It turns out that the mechanic had installed the harness incorrectly. The motor was actually turning backwards blowing air in instead of out. Have the mechanic check the wiring again or print an installation diagram then check the wiring.
Hope this helps.