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Jeep Grand Cherokee A/C Heating Ventilation

372 messages,  Last post on Oct 27, 2009 at 2:04 PM

You are in the Jeep Cherokee and Jeep Grand Cherokee Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester

What is this discussion about? Jeep Grand Cherokee, Heating / Cooling, SUV

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#313 of 372 Re: Grand Cherokee Heater [msa3] by steve_ HOST Apr 10, 2009 (8:21 pm)
Replying to: msa3 (Mar 30, 2009 5:35 am) There are a few products available on places like eBay that offer repair kits that don't involve removing most the dash like the dealer fix does. Just some of the dash.   A few of the vendors have come to CarSpace simply to tout their product, which is against our membership rules. You can find them easily enough with a net search if you decide to go that route.
#314 of 372 2003 GC Temperature Control Rotary Knob by machinist1 Apr 17, 2009 (9:23 am)
My 2003 apperars to have a bad temperature control rotary knob. (This vehicle does not have dual-zone control). I usaully get a blend of hot/cold air regardless of where I have the knob set. However, if I press on the knob or jimmy it a bit, the damper will move and air will be supplied at the desired temperature. Fan blower, mode selector, heater and AC all work fine...this is just a temp control issue...   I've been reading this forum a while, but I have not seen a post describing a similar problem. Has anyone else experienced this, and what is the difficulty and $ of replacing this control?
#315 of 372 HeaterTreater by heatertreater Apr 17, 2009 (11:21 am)
The knob may be slipping and you will have to remove it and see if the connection is cracked. This happens a lot on the Ford F150's, but I'm surprised on the GC. It's just a variable resistance switch that the knob is turning and there shouldn't be enough resistance to strip the knob unless someone is trying to turn it past the end points.   You can fully open the glove box and examine the actuator motor to the left of the glove box opening. When you turn the temp knob, the motor should move. The system is under computer control and will shut that motor down when it detects a system fault, so failure of the motor to turn does not necessarily mean a bad motor.   The motor can be removed by removing two philips screws and pulling the motor straight back. Examine the motor connection and blend door axle to see if there is damage. The white axle going into the plenum box has a limit pin extending radially from the axle that is constrained between two stop points molded into the plenum box. Check that the limit pin is not broken and that you can turn the blend door axle easily with your fingers. You should be able to manually switch between heat and no heat with your fingers. You can check the motor with a 9V battery and a snap connector. Just touch the wires to the two terminals and the motor should turn, and reverse when you switch the wires.   From your description, I'd be concerned with checking the knob closely. If the connection is cracked, you should feel a "bump" in the knob when you turn it. This would be a sign of a cracked connector that is not engaging the switch. You should also be able to feel an end point to movement. If the knob spins 360 degrees, the connection is broken. If nothing else, remove the knob and use a pair of pliers... Just kidding, a broken knob should be easy to fix with epoxy and a couple of loops of wire around the knob connection.

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