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Jeep Grand Cherokee A/C Heating Ventilation

372 messages,  Last post on Oct 27, 2009 at 2:04 PM

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What is this discussion about? Jeep Grand Cherokee, Heating / Cooling, SUV

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#285 of 372 Re: Not a blend door problem [NikonJohn] by mbouch67 Jan 22, 2009 (6:59 pm)
Replying to: NikonJohn (Jan 22, 2009 3:40 pm) I had the same problem before my hot air wasn't getting hot. it would only come out of the defrost vent. I found that the vacuum line under the hood was broken. the line runs close to the firewall up top then ducks down below the battery and eventually somewhere up front(i'm not a car guy.) anyways, it was broke in like 3 different places so i put shrink tubing over it and then some silicone on the ends of the tubing as a temporary fix. after i did that, i had air coming out of the defrost, front vents, and floor depending on where i had the setting. hope this helps.   btw i have a 2001 jeep grand cherokee but i'm sure it's prolly the same for a few years. 99-04 i think Replies to this message: Chaska61 (Jan 27, 2009 8:59 am)
#286 of 372 You NAILED it! by NikonJohn Jan 25, 2009 (2:01 pm)
The vacuum line under the battery box was cracked in several places. Why they would put a vacuum line line in such a hard to get area is beyond me.
#287 of 372 Re: 2002 Grand cherokee air condition problems [scootter1] by blendor Jan 27, 2009 (5:43 am)
Replying to: scootter1 (Dec 17, 2008 1:02 pm) I would not promote an HTer dual control product that allows the two Actuator Motors and electrical wiring to be exposed to anyone opening the glove box. Or any child, to possibly put there hands in the cutout section and get hurt by electrical wires and moving parts of the two actuator motors.   Plus you have to cut about 6” off the end of the glove box compartment and HTer leaves you hanging on how to repair the cut off end of the glove box.   How did you repair the cut off end of your glove box?   If you have any children I hope you will keep the glove box locked at all times!   What do you think the liability factor would be when you sell your vehicle with the end of the glove box cut off with the electrical wires and two actuator motors exposed!!   HTer dual control kit has thirteen parts to put together along with cutting wires, spicing them and Repairing you glove compartment box.   For future readers, please make an honest comparison. There is a Safe - Worry Free – User Friendly – three piece "Blen Dor Dual Control" blend door repair kit.
#288 of 372 Excess noise and vibration between 60 and 70 mph. by Chaska61 Jan 27, 2009 (7:50 am)
I have a very noticable noise and vibration issue that starts when I reach approx. 63 mph and doesn't go away until I reach around 70mph. I live in Minnesota so it's cold but I've checked and have no ice buildup around the wheeel wells or anything like that. Any idea's? It may sound odd but it seemed to start after my mechanic replaced the water pump that was causing me some overheating issues. Thanks for any advice!
#289 of 372 Replaced all internal parts and still poor heat flow? by Chaska61 Jan 27, 2009 (8:42 am)
I have the same problem as most others with the blend doors, etc. I had my mechanic remove the dash, replace the blend door housings and blend door motors, the heater core and evaporator core. I also had the radiator and water pump replaced this summer. In other words almost everything is new. However I still have poor heat flow and am concerned I'll have poor AC performance once we hit the summer. What do I do next? When I have the blower on low the heat is okay (not hot by any means) but when I turn the blower to 3/4 or high the air is lukewarm at best. I also have what I think is poor air flow (not much air pressure coming out of the vents). Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. The temperature in Minnesota has been between 10 and minus 20 for the past few weeks and the Jeep never gets very warm, especially after spending around $2500 the past few months to fix the problems.
#290 of 372 Re: Not a blend door problem [mbouch67] by Chaska61 Jan 27, 2009 (8:59 am)
Replying to: mbouch67 (Jan 22, 2009 6:59 pm) Do you think this would be a possible solution for the problem I laid out on post #289? I would be so happy to find a solution that doesn't appear to cost too much! Thank from Chaska61
#291 of 372 Defroster by knick31 Jan 28, 2009 (6:02 pm)
When I switch from defroster mode to heat thru the vents and floor nothing happens the defroster continues to blow heat but that is it.
#292 of 372 Re: Blower motor issues [tmann1961] by ratzajeep Feb 08, 2009 (10:54 am)
Replying to: tmann1961 (Nov 26, 2007 10:44 am) there is a relay and wire right under dash at passengers feet area. you will see wires and a connector. tap with hammer this is the controls box also jiggle wires that go into the white plastic connector.   I have had the same problem and fixed it bye rewiring the white connector
#293 of 372 resistor rewire not helping by caligrlaway Mar 01, 2009 (3:14 pm)
I was having blower motor problems and traced it back to the resistor connector. When the motor stops working, if I move the connector wiring to the resistor around it will turn back on. So I bought the wiring repair kit and redid the wires and connector to the resistor but it is still not working. the old connector had melted the plastic away from the resistor cover too. Could that affect the connection? Now I can't even move the wires around for any heat and it is freezing.

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