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SUVs Chevrolet Suburban & Tahoe Chevy Suburban Rough Idle and Stalling
95 messages, Last post on Nov 03, 2009 at 6:57 AM
You are in the Chevrolet Suburban & Tahoe Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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Replying to: pear69 (Apr 03, 2008 10:53 am) |
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Replying to: pear69 (Apr 03, 2008 10:53 am) Thanks
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Replying to: elorenzo39 (Apr 03, 2008 11:18 am) |
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Replying to: pear69 (Apr 02, 2008 9:51 pm) Hello there! I have changed out the fuel injector and unfortunately it did not make any difference. It is still running the same. If I run the car with the MAF Sensor and when the car hits 40MPH that SES light blinks. When I run the car w/out the MAF sensor the SES will not blink and run better but you can still feel the miss-fire but not as much. The only time you will feel it is when you come to a stop and on an idle. Can an O2 sensor create a misfire? Thanks, elorenzo39
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Replying to: elorenzo39 (Apr 08, 2008 7:13 am) I will help all I can, but answer the four questions I just asked. Please do not change anything on the engine. You must start from the beginning and be patient, If not then do not waste my time. I like helping people but when they go off track and change things that do not need changing then all they are doing is wasting money and time. If you did change the entire injector assembly then that is good. Even if it didn't need it, this upgrade should be done anyway..
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Replying to: pear69 (Apr 08, 2008 3:41 pm) Thanks for your help. |
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Replying to: pear69 (Apr 08, 2008 3:41 pm) Spark Plug (Champion) Purchased at Autozone as well. Wires (Dura something from Autozone Cap and Rotors purchased at Pepboys (BWD brand) Map/cam/crank are BWD brand Fuel Injectors brand below. Purchased at Autozone. Gp-Sorensen / Fuel Injector Warranty - 1 YR 800-1513N $307.99 I changed all these part after the Suburban start running very rough. First code was a P0300. After changing and installing the plugs/wires code became P0304 and after changing the rest of the part that I bought, the code remain on P0304. Thank you in advance for your help. Sincerely, elorenzo39
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Replying to: elorenzo39 (Apr 09, 2008 7:09 am) If the problem was not existing before the lower intake was removed to replace the gasket then lets start there..... In order to change the lower intake gasket the intake must be removed. You must unplug (and tie out of the way) the entire engine wiring harness. The harness has important ground wires that must be disconnected to remove. Follow the engine wire harness and look for ground wires disconnected. One is connected to the coolant port bolt stud (where the upper radiator hose connects to the upper intake)-if this ground is disconnected the injector ground system will overload and cause your problem. If you find all wires connected move to this--- The distributer must be removed in order to remove the lower intake manifold. Being that you had a P0300 code (a general misfire condition) the distributer gear could be worn out. Removeing the distributer to check this is not hard at all. If you changed the injector assembly then you can remove the distributer to check this. First (most importantly) bring the no. 1 cylinder up to Top Dead Center (TDC). To do this disconnect the battery-- take the air plentum off-- remove the spark plugs and wires--locate the timing pointer on the block (looking at the engine from the front it will be just to the right of the front timing chain cover--spraying some brake cleaner on the pointer may help if it is dirty)--turn the engine "by hand" and align the timing mark on the crank balancer up with the pointer (the balancer mark is a engraved line machined into the balancer)--now very very very carefully remove the distributer cap. On the distributer cap base (where the cap screws down too) there are two notches, one has a number 8 engraved on it and one has a number 6 engraved on it (look very close--use a magnifying glass if necessary). The rotor should be pointing to the number 8. Disregard the number 6 (it is for 6 cylinder engines). This is number 1 cylinder firing position, verify this by compairing the distributer cap to the rotor position;it should be pointing to the contact for cylinder one. If not simply rotate the engine "by hand" 1 turn, until the timing mark on the balancer comes around again--360 degrees. Now you are at TDC...The following is the most important step--with a marker (Sharpie works fine) mark the base of the distributer and a point on the block ,or somwhere, to align up with when you put the distributer back in--unplug the electrical connector in the back of the distributer (cam shaft sensor)...take a break...now carefully loosen the distributer hold down bolt (13mm or 1/2 inch wrench) and remove the distributer. There will be oil dripping so be ready with a rag. Look carefully at the distributer gear. It is very common for these gears to to wear out. The replacement gear should be made of iron or hardened steel--these cost around $70. Check the price on a whole new distributer. To reinstall the distributer it is the reverse, but make sure the base is aligned with the (Sharpie mark). Sorry you are not done with the distributer reinstall--Now you must take the truck to the dealer to get it properly timed. The ignition timing on your engine MUST BE SET WITH A SCAN TOOL. It is almost impossible to reinstall the distributer back to the exact same spot--especialy if you replace the gear. Unfortuanatly the dealer is usually the only shop that has this type of scan tool. The timing may be the problem all along, because I am sure that after the distributer was removed by the mechanic, the engine timing was not set with a scan tool. This is a common oversight. Also if you replaced the crank shaft position sensor--and you are taking the truck to the dealer for a timing setting you mine-as-well have a crank shaft relearn proceedure done while it is there. The reason for this is too long to explain--just tell the dealer you want a the timming set and a crank shaft position sensor relearn proceedure done--it will take about an hour and will set you back around $60 bucks--A tip--before you bring the truck to the dealer make sure the engine is warmed up for at least 1/2 hour.....Also, I would get rid of the champion spark plugs and the duralast wires--why?--A/C Delco platinum plugs (not the rapid fire ones) and A/C Delco wires are the only brands that work on these engines--The ignition system voltage is very high--and for some reason A/C Delco is designed for this, trust me here. I know that A/C Delco plugs and wires are expencive but they are the only brand that works and they will last another 100000 miles..I would bite the bullet and put in new plugs and wires--see what happens...Keep me posted... |
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Replying to: pear69 (Apr 09, 2008 11:21 am) |
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Replying to: pear69 (Apr 09, 2008 11:21 am) Thanks, elorenzo39 |
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