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Mazda CX-9 Prices Paid and Buying Experience
1110 messages, Last post on Sep 06, 2008 at 10:55 AM
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Replying to: seloo (Jan 18, 2008 12:18 pm) I agree that you should try and get most if not all fees removed, but it's not a deal breaker if you get a good price on the car (in the buyer's opinion) and still pay a small fee. if you can't afford the $150 fee, you should not be buying a $40k car.
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Replying to: live2ski (Jan 18, 2008 12:52 pm) The problem is that the dealerships are making up new names for these fees faster than the consumer can keep up with them. I know that the dealer has to make a buck, but at least they can be honest about it! Between the Prep Fee, Doc Fee, and the whatever fee, these fees can add $500 to $1000 to the price of a car and turn a sweet deal into a sour one. Good Luck to all & watch out for the fees!
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Replying to: seloo (Jan 18, 2008 1:23 pm) |
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Replying to: seloo (Jan 18, 2008 12:18 pm) By the way, I have a 30 year fixed rate mortgage...thanks for caring!
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Replying to: laker34 (Jan 18, 2008 2:36 pm) Heck for all we know... the 40K CX-9 (fully loaded) may in fact cost about 18K to produce and the manufacturer will "sell" to the dealer for 20K... and we all see the invoice at 36K. It's all relative - it's not like we insist on seeing the "accounting books" on how much value/money they had in the vehicle they are trying to sell you. Edmunds TMV, Consumer Reports Bottom Line Price, etc., etc., there's always a "profit" in the numbers. seloo - it would be nice if we could just get full honest disclosure on what we are paying for. Heck, if they were 100% honest and clear about what they are charging me, I may be more susceptible to paying for a fee it was truly legit. |
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What would be a good price for a 2007 CX9 touring AWD? This will be my first car purchase on my own. I've read other posts that say a price around invoice is good.
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I am in the market for a CX-9 GT AWD. I found three dealers in SF Bay Area that offered me invoice minus $500. This was after two e-mail exchange (not much negotiation). In general, I found that there are more FWD models available on their lots. They may be even more willing to negotiate but I am not sure by how much you can get. Just for your information.
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Replying to: buyer08 (Jan 18, 2008 6:29 pm) Now if you meant to say a 2008 model, it seems you might get a few hundred dollars below invoice. I was quoted invoice without really haggling on a 2008 model, so if they get desperate I'm sure they'll go lower. |
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I was at the local Mazda dealer yesterday, and after much negotiation, they tried to sell me on a monthly payment deal. After taking all of the information that they gave me, I told them I would let them know on Monday. After backing the payment into a Present Value, adding in our down payment and offered trade in value, I came up with a purchase price of $34,600 1. I think that they undervalued my trade in by about 1500 based on KBB values. Is that reliable to use as a negotiation starting point? 2. If I get another 1k in trade in, that will lower my purchase price to 33,600. The car is the 2008 GT CX-9. Additional options are Moonroof/ Bose package. Is it a good deal? |
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Replying to: bpquinn77 (Jan 27, 2008 7:46 am) You need to know the invoice price of the car (with no dealer add ons). check edmunds.com What is the selling price of the car (w/o TT&L or extra fees). (Compare that price to others posted on this board) What non-related TT&L fees are they trying to charge you (Doc Fee, Ad Fee, etc...). As for the trade, you really need to know the true value of your car, KBB provides some guidelines, but that is not what a car appraiser uses to determine the value. Understand the better deal you get on the price of the car, the lower amount they will give you on your trade. This can be tricky. My advice would be to keep the trade as a separate transaction. What are the terms of the financing? Until you fully understand all aspects of your deal, do not sign anything! Good Luck!
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