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Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Mazda CX-9 Prices Paid and Buying Experience
929 messages, Last post on Jul 04, 2008 at 12:48 AM
You are in the Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Forum. Your Hosts are car_man & kyfdx
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in case anyone here cares, today's Knoxville paper ran ad from Twin City Mazda advertising new CX-9 Sport $3,500 under MSRP..........i don't have scanner here for ad, but you can google Twin City Mazda just 20 miles south of Knoxville, TN .......... john in nashville |
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I was offered a CX-9 Grand Touring for $37,975, which is $2,500 off MSRP, $40,475. That is $1,002 above what Edmunds says invoice is. It doesn't seem like much of deal. Should I expect more or what till rebates roll-in? When would we start to see rebates? I think I will qualify for 0% financing, so that works in the dealer's favor.
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Replying to: kamiller42 (Nov 24, 2007 8:46 pm) Unless you must have a car today,time is on your side. Good Luck! |
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I got an offer from a local dealership here in NJ and wanted to pass it by you. Mazda CX-9, Grand Touring, Loaded, MSRP- $40165 Price Quoted for lease- $37336 (Edmunds invoice is $36,644) NJ Gas Guzzler Tax- $1623.48 Other Fees- $541.50 Dealer wants $1127 down, after the $750 rebate is taken off($1877.97 prior), payments of $586.47/month Term is 36 months, 12K year miles. Money factor- .0018900 Residual- 54% At first glance, this didn't seem like a great deal. Thanks for your help.
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Replying to: noonan18 (Nov 26, 2007 5:35 pm) But, the lease price seems high, and what is the deal with the GGT and other fees? If this is such a great car, why is the residual so low? I agree, this seems like it is not a great deal. Maybe the lease experts can provide you with some more information. |
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Replying to: noonan18 (Nov 26, 2007 5:35 pm) SUVs should be exempt from the gas guzzler tax--unless individual states have the power to assess it...? |
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Replying to: seloo (Nov 11, 2007 1:05 pm) 07 CX-9 $0 under invoice. At invoice. 08 CX-9 $500 under invoice. Includes rebates. No changes on the board this for a couple of weeks. Surely, someone can beat these numbers, they are not overly impressive. Keep posting those good deals.
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Replying to: seloo (Nov 27, 2007 5:00 am) 07 CX-9 $0 under invoice. At invoice. 08 CX-9 $500 under invoice. Includes rebates. No changes on the board for the last couple of weeks. Surely, someone can beat these numbers, they are not overly impressive. Keep posting those good deals.
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Greetings, Specs: NAV. MoonR, 20 inch Alum wheels, auto trunk, rear cam, SAT, etc... NO Towing. Dealer is asking for 2300.00 Down with $535.00 monthly payment - to drive it off the Lot w/ TAX, Delivery, Plates, etc... (PA); the car MSRP was of 39567.00 - (36 Months 15K Miles Yearly.) - Is it a good deal? What monthly payment should I expect based on the aforementioned information for 24 and 36 months with $2000 down? Please advise. I dont have a clue as too what I should be paying for this car.... It does beat a BMW in price, confort, and technology....
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Replying to: silvpa2000 (Nov 28, 2007 10:25 pm) Basically, all you know is that you're paying $535 x 36 + $2,300 for the use of the vehicle - a total of $21,560 (and depending on what state you're in, it might actually be higher because some states charge the sales tax rate on the monthly lease payment each and every month while others charge it up front on the entire purchase price of the vehicle - here in Los Angeles where the tax rate is 8.25%, that $535 a month might ACTUALLY be $579.14). You really need to look at EACH figure individually. Start with the "cap cost" which is basically what you're "buying" the car for. As some other people on here have said, they've been able to get deals of roughly invoice or maybe $500 above. How do you find the invoice price? Use sites like Edmunds, KBB, or MSN Autos and enter in the information about what's actually in the vehicle - you'll get both the invoice and the MSRP. If the MSRP matches or is very close to the sticker, then you've probably got pretty accurate pricing. Once you've negotiated a cap cost, you can look at the "interest rate" which in a lease is normally described as a "money factor." If the dealer won't tell you, walk. If they claim they don't know, walk. They know. The SALES guy might not, but they finance guy and/or the sales manager does know and can tell you. To convert it to something you can understand, take the money factor and multiple by 2400 - that will give you an approximate interest rate in percent. If they're charging something like 15% (money factor of 0.00625), you're being had. 3% or 4% and you're probably getting a pretty damn good deal. You also have to look at the residual, but chances are that you're not going to be able to negotiate that - it is basically what they estimate the vehicle will be worth at the end of the lease. Your payments are based primarily on the "interest rate" and the spread between the "cap cost" and what the vehicle is going to be worth at the end of the lease. Something else to think about is that in a lease, you never own the vehicle. Putting extra money in up front doesn't ever get you anything on the "back end" like it might with a purchase; you're not putting money in now that you'll get out when you sell the car because you don't own it and won't likely be able to sell it at a profit. You REALLY have to look at any money you put in up front as simply taking money away from yourself and giving it to the leasing company as prepaying part of the lease - and then figure out how MUCH you're really prepaying. WIth $2,300 up front, you're effectively paying an extra $64 a month for the vehicle, only you're doing it up front where you won't realize it every single month. Look at any fees they're tacking on. Destination charges are standard and are not usually negotiable. Tax on a lease may be charged up front or every month depending on your state, but that's not going to be negotiable. The license is, well, what it costs to register the vehicle for the first year. Other crap fees are usually just profit to the dealer and/or leasing company. Pay particular attention to acquisition fees and lease termination fees. While not uncommon, you need to know about them in advance; dealers often "forget" to talk about termination fees but what that means is that the vehicle may easily cost you an extra $500-$750 or more at the end of the lease just to turn back in. And while the DEALER usually can't negotiate on these fees (they're usually set by the leasing company), the dealer CAN look at other leasing companies instead. The one that has the lowest "interest rate" (money factor) will come out with the lowest monthly payment and that will usually LOOK good to you, but would you rather have a lease that costs you an extra $3 a month that has no termination fee or one that costs $3 a month less and has a $500 termination fee (which means paying $108 extra over the 36 month lease versus an extra $500 at the end)? Also check into the "wear and tear" policies because some leasing companies are terrible and will try to charge you for every tiny little door ding while others are more lenient. And, of course, make sure you NEED the 15K miles per year; if you don't go over 12K per year, that might be a less expensive lease if available. But make sure that you are realistic and learn the excess mileage fees because if you go over, you could wind up paying a LOT of money (50 cents a mile turns into $500 for only 1,000 miles over - and if you're 5,000 miles over, that means paying an extra $2,500 at the end of the lease). |
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