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Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Mazda CX-9 Prices Paid and Buying Experience
2202 messages, Last post on Nov 30, 2009 at 10:03 AM
You are in the Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Forum. Your Hosts are car_man & kyfdx
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Replying to: seloo (Sep 25, 2007 8:49 am) |
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Replying to: pjette (Sep 25, 2007 8:59 am) What did it cost for the extras? |
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Replying to: outsidegurl (Sep 23, 2007 6:01 pm) One "mistake" that people often make when leasing a car is putting down a lot of money so they can reduce their monthly payments. That's usually a bad idea because you are still giving money to the dealer for the car... you're just making yourself think that the vehicle doesn't cost you as much as it really does. For instance, if you've got a $500 a month, 48 month lease and put down $4,000, your REAL cost of the vehicle over those 4 years is 500x48+4000 = $28,000. That's really equivalent to $583 a month with no down. If you can write off the use of the vehicle (for instance, if it is mostly for business use), with a lease, you can write of the actual lease amount every month (at least, the percentage used for business). With a purchase, you'd have to depreciate the vehicle over quite a few years and the more expensive the vehicle, the longer it will take you to depreciate it. On an expensive vehicle, you may find that you simply won't have it long enough to depreciate fully. How long you intend to keep the vehicle is also a factor. If you realistically get new vehicles every 3-4 years, then most likely, a lease is less expensive because with a purchase, you'd probably be paying all along anyway. On the other hand, if you tend to keep vehicles for 10 years before getting a new one, then with a purchase, you'll have at least 4 or 5 years of no payments (depending on how long you finance the vehicle). If you drive a lot, then a lease might not be for you, either. Leases generally come with certain mileage limits, often 8K, 10K, 12K, or 15K miles per year. Average for most people is 12K miles per year but this will vary. Know that if you're above, you'll wind up having to pay quite a bit per mile at the end of the lease - so you might have to come up with several thousand dollars at the end. If you KNOW you're going to be over, get a lease with more miles up front or buy miles up front if they'll discount them for you. But remember, if you buy extra miles (or have a higher lease limit), then you're not going to get a refund and you're just paying extra for no reason. In any case, if you drive a lot, then the added mileage expense of a lease might make it more expensive than a purchase. With a lease, you usually have to return the vehicle in pretty good condition or end up paying excess wear and tear fees. If you like to modify your cars - repainting, adding permanent luggage carriers, aftermarket radios, engine mods, etc. - then a lease probably isn't for you. If you like to drive offroad, then a lease may also not be for you because they may not allow it (and you COULD get away with it, but if they find out, you could be in trouble). One huge difference between a lease and a purchase (besides the fact that you own nothing at the end of a lease) is that with a purchase, you're paying for the entire purchase price of the car plus interest. With a lease, you're basically paying for the difference between the purchase price of the car and what it is worth at the end of the lease plus interest. In other words, you're sort of paying for the amount of the car you've "used" (the value that it has lost). What that really means is that interest rates being equal, if you buy a car that's worth twice as much, you'll be paying twice as much. But with a lease, you may NOT be paying twice as much for a vehicle that's worth twice as much because it all depends on the spread between the purchase price (technically called the "cap cost" in a lease) and the value at the end (technically called the "residual") As an example, if you're got one vehicle that's got a selling price of $25,000 and a residual of $10,000 after 3 years, that's a depreciation of $15,000. But another vehicle that's worth $35,000 might wind up being worth $25,000 after 3 years - making the depreciation only $10,000. What that means is that the more expensive vehicle might actually cost you LESS in a lease than the cheaper vehicle. That's actually why my RX400h wasn't really much more expensive than a CX-9 would have been - because the RX400h keeps far more of its value and so the drop in value was similar, even though the RX400h is probably at least $10,000 more expensive to purchase. I know you were probably looking for a "yes, lease" or "yes, buy" answer but the real answer is that it depends on a bunch of different factors that only YOU can answer. You LITERALLY have to sit down and figure out how much each method (leasing versus buying) would cost you over some period of time (often, how long you'd keep a purchased car is a good time period to use). By the way, too many people choose leasing over buying because they simply want a more expensive car than they can really afford and can't afford the monthly payments of a purchase. However, in the end, they wind up paying MORE for a lease. Hope this helps.
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Replying to: nastacio (Sep 06, 2007 1:04 pm) Consumer reports did but the bottom line pricing for "my" car at $31,600 if you add in the options. Hope this post helps, I enjoyed reading all the comments/experiences you guys shared.
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Replying to: kcgille (Sep 27, 2007 4:01 am) Thanks
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Replying to: kcgille (Sep 27, 2007 4:01 am)
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Wondering if anyone knows the following: what people have been paying for a 2007 CX-9 w/ touring w/ AWD. If there are only few 07 left will they still bargain on them? BTW... I'm looking in the metropolitan NY area...(Westchester/Putnam)or Western 1/2 of CT. Thanks for any information you can share. |
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08 GT Platinum Gray with black lthr. Assist pkg Towing Pkg RSE cargo net compass/autodim mirror with homelink Roof Rails. Wheel locks MSRP = $40,668 (that number is according to dealer, carsdirect says MSRP is $40,150) Your price = 37,944 Now revised to $37,744 after another round of negotiating. I am going to offer $37,225 final and walk if they won't do it. Prices quoted include everything but tax title and tag (yes, even ad fees). Carsdirect, which includes ad fees in their "target price" has it at $37,891, and an invoice price of $37,041 (that price also includes ad fees I believe) Thing is, I don't WANT the towing package, so I am asking them to cut the cost of it in half. Does the towing package add weight or bulk to the car? Thanks
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Replying to: kbedwards (Sep 27, 2007 8:12 pm) Are there other fees in this deal. (like a doc fee?) Did you account for the $500 difference in the MSRP (they could be padding the price)? Are you trading? Do not be in a hurry, unless you must have a new car soon because you do not already have a car. Contact another dealer and get another quote. At this point in the process, I would not worry about the towing package.
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Replying to: seloo (Sep 28, 2007 2:27 am) Not trading, just sold my car last week, but I am borrowing one, so not in a hurry. It's not like I am without transp at this point. I have gone to other dealers, but they have not come close to this price. No hidden fees (that popped up earlier in the negotiation in the form of advertising fees  )- that number I wrote includes everything but tax, title and tag which has already been quoted to me from dealer at $575. I just want to know if the towing package changes the way the "normal" engine would behave - if it drives much differently than the one I test drove...i.e. does it provide more torque at the expense of...quickness? Does it add a lot of weight? No idea...but I am 95% sure I will never need to tow anything...don't even have a trailer! |
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